youout

I am getting ready to have a Yank converter installed this spring in my A6 C6. I am going to add a transmission cooler first. I plan on installing B&M Hi-Tek ( unless I hear that there is something better) transmission cooler that has the fan that turns on at 175 degrees.

1. Should I have the transmission lines go to the radiator transmission cooler first and then to the B&M or can I go from transmission to the B&M and skip the radiator cooler?
2. B&M makes two sizes. – a 9inch fan and a 7 inch fan. Has anyone found one to better serve their needs when racing. Price is not the issue and either one will fit.

The car will be used for quarter mile runs several times per month and some low speed road courses. Any thoughts?

OBSSSD

Get the B&M Supercooler #70264 and mount it against the side of the radiator on the passenger side of the car with the fins perpendicular to the ground. It will not affect your coolant temps - of course make sure you have a 160 t-stat like the SLP that runs 171-176 all the time. Your tranny temps should run anywhere from 130-185 depending on ambient tepms and level of abuse. You need to run through the stock cooler and then through the B&M Supercooler and then back into the transmisson - this order is very important! You do not need any additional fans if you mount the cooler as stated. Of course you need a tune to lower your fan engagment temps to accomodate the lower t-stat. I have used this exact setup on several vettes and if you follow these instructions you will be very happy. I bought mine at Amazon for a great price

cranky

i agree with all of the above. did the same on mine. have the ss3600 yank be sure you have the routing correct from the trans. cooler to the b&m. go from the bottom of trans. cooler to the b&m then back to the trans. good luck cranky.

Gearhead Jim

Can you give us a picture, drawing, or photoshop of how this installation looks?

My poor brain can't visualize the cooler location and air flow.

youout

Keep it going.

This is all good solid info. For those of you who have done this are you very sure a fan is not needed on the cooler? I do have the 160 thermostat and the engine runs 180 to 190. The tranny never gets over 220 and that is only when I am using the paddles constantly in 95 degree heat. Normally the tranny runs at 170 -180. I am sure with the Yank it will drive up temps especially at the track.

PS Thanks for the hook up info. Not sure if that is mentioned in the install instructions and anyone who has pictures it would be great to see the actually install up front by the radiator

Red06Vette

youout,
This is how I did mine

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...r-install.html

youout

thanks for the link. Pictures are a great help.

dennis50nj

i used a 12 x 12 hayden from pep boys, mounted it lowest dead center in front of the condensor, still have room for the vararam, trans to cooler only, bypass the rad

OBSSSD

Sorry I don't have any, but I just bought a 2010 GS with the A6 and I am about to install the exact same cooler in the same position. Will take pictures and post up once I get it done. Do NOT bypass the factory trans cooler folks

If you lay down and look up under the car you will see the radiator. The cooler goes on the far passenger side against the radiator with the rubber spacers that come with cooler. It goes longways up and down so the fins catch all of the air when you are driving. Hope that helps until I get pictures. Also, the B&M cooler comes with everything you need to hook it up properly for a great price. Temps over 200 are asking for premature failure IMO...

reelmccoy76

Just had Yank 3200 installed, my temps are riding (motor now 195 to 205). Tranny temps in the same range and thats with dewitts radiator, And 160 thermastat. Outside temp has been cool here in south florida. So , i guess i will need tranny cooler also. I can only imagine in summer. Thanks for info.

Red06Vette

youout,
just so you know, the top transmission line in the radiator is the return line to the trans. Cut this line and make your connection from there to the new cooler and then from the cooler back to this line. I got a new line from Chevy and made the connections, then just swapped out the new line.

thesubfloor

There's actually a much simpler way that doesn't require any cutting or purchasing new parts from GM.

What I did with mine was disconnect both cooler lines from the radiator and then attach new rubber lines to each one going to the external cooler and thus bypassing the cooler in the radiator altogether.

I've tried it both ways (going through the radiator cooler and bypassing it) and found no noticeable difference in cooling. Also, if your external cooler ever dies on you or you split a hose (and believe me, it can happen) all you need to do is plug the factory lines back into the radiator to avoid an expensive towing bill.

dennis50nj

thats how i did it why cut the lines when you can just pull the clips with a pic, and the hose pushed over the bevil on the lines and clamp.
I HAVE A 3800 RPM CONVERTER THAT PROBABLY FLASHES TO 4200., i have taken the car to 185 many times, have 373 gears, my car runs 170-181 on a 95 degree day, have made many mid 10 second passes back to back hot lapped 4 times and never had the trans temp go over 170 at the track, gears wil give you higher rpm at speed making higher trans temps, and a big converter, and aggresive driving flashing that converter will raise your temps , with the cooler going into the radiator your trans temps will match your water temps

OBSSSD

I'm not sure that people in really cold climates would be running adequate tranny temps in a reasonable time without running through the radiator. With a 160 t-stat (171-176 coolant temps) I see anywhere from 125-180 so I don't agree with the other poster that said the temps will be the same as the coolant. If the cooler is hooked up properly I don't see the lines ever splitting or coming loose. Plus bypassing the cooler with lower fluid capacity, which I'm not a fan of myself. Not saying your setup doesn't work, but it isn't what I'd recommend to someone or use myself.

dennis50nj

i live in the north east, N.J, i dont put it up for the winter, i drive it all year, all thats in the radiator cooler is pipe, if you bypass the rad and add more line you add capacity. my car has been that way for 4 years, i have 3 automatic gm vehicles, have you ever noticed when leaving the house even in the summer i travel a mile or so before the trans warms up enough to go into converter loc up in final gear, that with all 3, and only the vette has the bypass, the engine generates heat from the exsplosion in the cylinders, the water temp is not the engine or oil temp the trans fluid would be the same as the water temp it is using to cool it exiting the line, bypassing would make it cooler, i seen on a longer ride the trans and water temps were the same without the cooler

bosco 08

interesting.

OBSSSD

I also have 3 GM vehicles set up like this. Our Trailblazer SS runs 115-130 degree trans temps with the stock t-stat when ambient temps are 40 degrees. Coolant temps are steady at 189 degrees, and all of this is while flogging the truck down the highway for several miles logging with HPTuners. So agree to disagree? My experience has been different than yours in many other cases as well. Not saying it won't work, but I have my own preferences that have worked well for me. Difficult to see how the fluid would warm up at the same rate when bypassing the cooler, but each to his own

Bill Suttie

What data do you have to support your statement that temps over 200F are asking for premature failure?????

dennis50nj

i guess every vehicle can have diferent results, the operating system of the trailblazer with its electric clutch manual fan, could operate a little diferently then my a4 c6

OBSSSD

Just opinions from several different tranny builders and Mike Senia - the former owner of Yank. In general they have said that 150-196 degrees is the optimum operating range for the various Hydramatic transmissions. Higher than that range will cause premature wear on the transmission - although going past 220 degrees is substantially worse. This is why I took a 4L60E in my old Trans Am with heads/cam and all the bolt-ons and sprayed it for 3 years with no issues. Still shifted like new when I put it back to stock and sold it. Didn't bypass the radiator on this one either, and ran temps from 130-180 degrees even under abuse at the track. We know that heat wears transmissions and what the experts tell me has always worked well for me. Why mess with such good results? I think they know what they are talking about, and I don't have the time nor the appropriate sample size to test and prove them wrong.

Many vehicles that don't come with coolers run tranny temps that are too high. Usually the transmissions lasts until the warranty is up - then guess what? You get to hand over $2k to the dealer for a rebuild. Sometimes I think they plan on this