Our LS3 416 vs Eforce $
#1
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
Our LS3 416 vs Eforce $
For the money we offer more HP and room to grow.
The Eforce performance package is $6689 or so and offers 509hp to the wheels. Its on your stock engine not built for boost.
For $6768 we offer a rebuild to your LS3 and deliver a 416 that will make 530+ and be a precision built engine/combination with no risks like boosting an engine not built for boost. For a little more money we can put an aftermarket premium head on there and make more power.
We will take your block and heads and re-work them. Callies Forged crank rods and Wiseco pistons and rings, coated race bearings and arp mainstuds, Morel lifters etc..
You then can sell your good rotating assembly and recuperate some money. You can't do that with the Eforce. Plenty of people looking for stock stroke cranks and rods and pistons as well to do a cheap repair.
You then have a stout engine under the hood ( HKE precision racing engine) that you don't have to worry about heat soak and make more power than someone who bought the Eforce.
The Eforce performance package is $6689 or so and offers 509hp to the wheels. Its on your stock engine not built for boost.
For $6768 we offer a rebuild to your LS3 and deliver a 416 that will make 530+ and be a precision built engine/combination with no risks like boosting an engine not built for boost. For a little more money we can put an aftermarket premium head on there and make more power.
We will take your block and heads and re-work them. Callies Forged crank rods and Wiseco pistons and rings, coated race bearings and arp mainstuds, Morel lifters etc..
You then can sell your good rotating assembly and recuperate some money. You can't do that with the Eforce. Plenty of people looking for stock stroke cranks and rods and pistons as well to do a cheap repair.
You then have a stout engine under the hood ( HKE precision racing engine) that you don't have to worry about heat soak and make more power than someone who bought the Eforce.
#3
With a 416 you should be able to make plenty of power without having to go extreme with the cam as well to keep your street manners very manageable.
I am going with an "all motor" set up as I also like the idea of non-FI. Youll also have more torque than you know what to do with as well.
Bump for a great vendor and very helpful one as well. Any questions they will treat you right.
I am going with an "all motor" set up as I also like the idea of non-FI. Youll also have more torque than you know what to do with as well.
Bump for a great vendor and very helpful one as well. Any questions they will treat you right.
#4
I am not quite sure why you chose Edelbrock with this post and not throw in the likes of other PD blowers out there to include the more pricey Magnacharger or Lingenfelter or Callaway? Maybe you should go ahead and pony up to chasing the much less costly and bigger horsepower ECS and A&A centris while you are at it? I’m sure Magnacharger, ECS and A&A would crap all over your “best value per HP” spin to this post. Perhaps you chose Edelbrock because you know they don’t participate in this forum and you feel safe using them as your target?
What you are offering is a completely different level of drive-ability suited for a completely different set of goals. A complete engine rebuild vs a weekend bolt-on upgrade? N/A vs F/I…an old debate…..not even an apples to oranges comparison.
What you are offering is a completely different level of drive-ability suited for a completely different set of goals. A complete engine rebuild vs a weekend bolt-on upgrade? N/A vs F/I…an old debate…..not even an apples to oranges comparison.
#5
I would guess to say he compared it to the Eforce since it is the new unit out.
Nothing like 530-600+rwhp N/A (IMHO)
This will be the route I go but it will be a little while. You should post some pics of the builds Chris, everbody loves engine ****-
Nothing like 530-600+rwhp N/A (IMHO)
This will be the route I go but it will be a little while. You should post some pics of the builds Chris, everbody loves engine ****-
#6
I am not quite sure why you chose Edelbrock with this post and not throw in the likes of other PD blowers out there to include the more pricey Magnacharger or Lingenfelter or Callaway? Maybe you should go ahead and pony up to chasing the much less costly and bigger horsepower ECS and A&A centris while you are at it? I’m sure Magnacharger, ECS and A&A would crap all over your “best value per HP” spin to this post. Perhaps you chose Edelbrock because you know they don’t participate in this forum and you feel safe using them as your target?
What you are offering is a completely different level of drive-ability suited for a completely different set of goals. A complete engine rebuild vs a weekend bolt-on upgrade? N/A vs F/I…an old debate…..not even an apples to oranges comparison.
What you are offering is a completely different level of drive-ability suited for a completely different set of goals. A complete engine rebuild vs a weekend bolt-on upgrade? N/A vs F/I…an old debate…..not even an apples to oranges comparison.
Just pointing that out.
#7
More like apples to hockey pucks!
Last edited by Motorhead-47; 11-18-2010 at 12:48 PM.
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I am not quite sure why you chose Edelbrock with this post and not throw in the likes of other PD blowers out there to include the more pricey Magnacharger or Lingenfelter or Callaway? Maybe you should go ahead and pony up to chasing the much less costly and bigger horsepower ECS and A&A centris while you are at it? I’m sure Magnacharger, ECS and A&A would crap all over your “best value per HP” spin to this post. Perhaps you chose Edelbrock because you know they don’t participate in this forum and you feel safe using them as your target?
What you are offering is a completely different level of drive-ability suited for a completely different set of goals. A complete engine rebuild vs a weekend bolt-on upgrade? N/A vs F/I…an old debate…..not even an apples to oranges comparison.
What you are offering is a completely different level of drive-ability suited for a completely different set of goals. A complete engine rebuild vs a weekend bolt-on upgrade? N/A vs F/I…an old debate…..not even an apples to oranges comparison.
I would imagine they chose to pick the e-force supercharger because it's the current "hot ticket" on the forum.
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#12
This should be a good thread-
Personally I would pass on the Eforce and go with the 416 but getting a reliable 530+rwhp is not going to be cheap and reliable....you only get to choose one of those qualities-
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
I'll try and answer the best I can the serious questions
The street legal in Cali eforce kit is the 445 hp kit not the 509 rwhp kit and yes it will pass same as the eforce. Its all stock so there is no visual issue for passing and the emissions aren't an issue if cammed correctly.
Motorhead-47 I'm not going to bother with your attack, have a nice day
I chose the eforce as its being thrown around like candy and I dont feel its the best HP value for the money.
Yes really We utilize the money efficiently in the build. The LS3 heads are ported and polished and flow 360 the compression is a pump gas friendly 11.3:1 unless you have 93 then we'll go 11.5..
It isnt a max effort 416 either, it will drive slightly more agressive than stock but certainly wont be the weezing thumping bump stick of nightmares. You cam is correctly.
With a 416 you should be able to make plenty of power without having to go extreme with the cam as well to keep your street manners very manageable.
I am going with an "all motor" set up as I also like the idea of non-FI. Youll also have more torque than you know what to do with as well.
Bump for a great vendor and very helpful one as well. Any questions they will treat you right.
I am going with an "all motor" set up as I also like the idea of non-FI. Youll also have more torque than you know what to do with as well.
Bump for a great vendor and very helpful one as well. Any questions they will treat you right.
Motorhead-47 I'm not going to bother with your attack, have a nice day
I chose the eforce as its being thrown around like candy and I dont feel its the best HP value for the money.
breecher_7 Since someone has already been the first *** of this thread I dont mind jumping in now...
7K for a 416 with stock casting heads? Really?
7K for a 416 with stock casting heads? Really?
It isnt a max effort 416 either, it will drive slightly more agressive than stock but certainly wont be the weezing thumping bump stick of nightmares. You cam is correctly.
Last edited by 99blancoss; 11-18-2010 at 06:48 PM.
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#16
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
Yes its a comparable package for the money. Its less $ per hp so its more efficient. The engine is new vs used as well so I'm really not sure what your laughing about. People spend $1100 chasing 20 or less hp and then even more than that to make 25 more hp after they are already at certain levels so its all relevant.
The heads are re-worked and new and so is the engine. For the same price you get less hp and a less favorable setup the other way. Its better money spent my way so I call it more efficient.
Show me a precision built engine for less that makes the same power.
#17
So you chose to try and beat up on the Edelbrock option right? Let's pull on this bang for the buck thread for just a minute since you started it. As I understand it, I need to eat shipping on my LS3 from wherever to Oregon and back right? I'll also need to eat the labor or personal time to pull and reinstall the engine right? Last time I checked R&R'ing a C6 motor wasn't a simple job. How much down time am I looking at?...weeks for sure...reality is probably a month or more! If I'm going to all of the trouble of yanking my engine why would I not just opt for a complete new-in-crate LSX376 forged motor from GMPP? Heck... it is a complete crate motor and I can buy it outright for $5,500 or less and get a GM 24 month 50,000 mile warranty along with it! I can then sell my near new LS3 long block for easily $1.5k and end up with a net investment of $4k for a warrantied forged motor from GM. Hum......decisions decisions.
There is plenty of room for N/A cars and there are plenty of guys who would never consider a F/I setup and are looking for great engine builders. Most shops don't need to push their wares at the expense of trying to bash other products.
Suggestion...promote your product strictly on it's performance merits. There is no need to attempt to bash other options if you have a quality product to offer.
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
I'm not bashing on a product at all no where do you see me call it junk.
I'm simply stating some facts and offering an alternative in the same price range.
Your having to pay a qualified dealer or recognized sae mech to do the install to be covered by any warranty you hope to have. Weekend is all it takes to swap an engine out, long day for a good shop and again you have to pay labor to get a warranty unless your a mech and if so it isn't taking you a mont to do it.
shipping is to Houston Tx and its not as much as you think, and I'll work with a person if that is the deciding factor
That 376lsx offers you only a forged piston and I already offered a comparable setup for the same money and warranty ... not mention you add like 240 lbs to the nose of your car if you go in that direction.
We're talking about 123 hp for $6600 on an engine not built for boost. I offer a much better built engine and more power for about the same money.
I'm simply stating some facts and offering an alternative in the same price range.
Your having to pay a qualified dealer or recognized sae mech to do the install to be covered by any warranty you hope to have. Weekend is all it takes to swap an engine out, long day for a good shop and again you have to pay labor to get a warranty unless your a mech and if so it isn't taking you a mont to do it.
shipping is to Houston Tx and its not as much as you think, and I'll work with a person if that is the deciding factor
That 376lsx offers you only a forged piston and I already offered a comparable setup for the same money and warranty ... not mention you add like 240 lbs to the nose of your car if you go in that direction.
We're talking about 123 hp for $6600 on an engine not built for boost. I offer a much better built engine and more power for about the same money.
#19
Safety Car
For $6768 we offer a rebuild to your LS3 and deliver a 416 that will make 530+ and be a precision built engine/combination with no risks like boosting an engine not built for boost. For a little more money we can put an aftermarket premium head on there and make more power.
The Eforce performance package is $6689 or so and offers 509hp to the wheels. Its on your stock engine not built for boost.
I like NA power, although for $6600 installed and tuned I'd have to take a long look at the deals on the A&A blower packages if I had that coin lying around.
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
530 HP is pretty stout on stock C6 manifolds. Are you assuming headers or at least the Z06 manifolds? While I'm not sure of the labor difference, doesn't the E-Force include the tune too?
Are we seeing engine failures at that HP level? If they are, it's not much higher than stock.
I like NA power, although for $6600 installed and tuned I'd have to take a long look at the deals on the A&A blower packages if I had that coin lying around.
Are we seeing engine failures at that HP level? If they are, it's not much higher than stock.
I like NA power, although for $6600 installed and tuned I'd have to take a long look at the deals on the A&A blower packages if I had that coin lying around.
The Eforce requires you to have it installed by a dealer or SAE shop to have a warranty is what I was looking at as it is a selling point to the kit.
Thats another alternative ( the AA kit) and they have a good reputation so thats another way to go. Their kits get installed on HKE engines all the time. And just an FYI I do offer the Eforce as well. This is just an alternative and a look at things from a money perspective and potential ramifications. How would I do it if it was my money. I am conservative about some things yes. I am a consumer first. I have had an oem engine go south on just a head a cam package and it was tuned by one of the best. You don't control pump gas and when you up the cylinder pressure and have detonation it hurts. Knock sensors do their job but the "ping" has already happened. So there is a flip side to the coin. I like to look at the flip side. I could just sit here and sell them but I don't because I like to look at the big picture as best as I can.
We build n/a and FI and Nitrous engines all the time. More FI and N2o than anything although the big cubed n/a engines we offer have their appeal to a certain crowd as well. I have a personal preference and I like both n/a and FI. I am debating a FI build right now for a personal project and for the power level its needs to be FI You can make higher power with FI cheaper than n/a, I have never argued that at all I am just looking at slip side of the coin that never seems to get looked at. I don't think I'm wrong for doing that? I dont mind someone doing the same either, I thinks thats what the website is for.
I like my FI to be on a proper engine. Thats seems to be the sticking point for some. Thats my convervative side.