lowering issues
#1
Instructor
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lowering issues
tried lowering my car tonight, have WCC bolts. All but one bolt was literally stuck solid! ended up breaking 3 10mm sockets trying to loosen these things. had the car on jack stands, and used a floor jack to relieve all the pressure off the suspension. Tried breaker fluid, even heated up the leaf spring and these things wouldnt budge. anyone run into this problem? if so what did you do to remedy the issue? Again, all weight was off the suspension and they wouldnt budge. spent 3 hrs with a friend trying to loosen it with no success. perhaps i am missing something? any info is much appreciated. thanks!
#2
Burning Brakes
where did you place the jack to relieve the pressure on the suspension? From the way you are wording it it sounds like you placed it under the A-Arm and jacked it up. If that is the case then you are actually making the problem worse. You need to place the jack under the spring itself as far to the end as you can that will actually remove the pressure.
#4
Drifting
where did you place the jack to relieve the pressure on the suspension? From the way you are wording it it sounds like you placed it under the A-Arm and jacked it up. If that is the case then you are actually making the problem worse. You need to place the jack under the spring itself as far to the end as you can that will actually remove the pressure.
#5
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thanks for the responses guys. i put the jack on the spring itself closest to the rotor. we sprayed some breaker fluid but with no results. The bushings arent touching anything, so i dont believe that is the problem. Any other inputs? thanks guys
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#9
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they are the stock bolts. the car spent two winters in chicago (does not show any signs of salt). maybe they are rusted on? thanks for the input, keep it coming please. I want to lower my car!
#11
Melting Slicks
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try channel lock or vice grip around the large metal part of the bushing below...whatever you do dont let it break off unless you have the tool to drill it out..they must have siezed...i worked on a fellas car whose previous owner had broken it off...the used leafs are cheap enough so we bought one for him, no bolts
#12
Melting Slicks
try channel lock or vice grip around the large metal part of the bushing below...whatever you do dont let it break off unless you have the tool to drill it out..they must have siezed...i worked on a fellas car whose previous owner had broken it off...the used leafs are cheap enough so we bought one for him, no bolts
I have had to do this. It should work for you. Should.
Work the bolt slightly in both directions until free.
Use more penetrant if needed.
#14
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try channel lock or vice grip around the large metal part of the bushing below...whatever you do dont let it break off unless you have the tool to drill it out..they must have siezed...i worked on a fellas car whose previous owner had broken it off...the used leafs are cheap enough so we bought one for him, no bolts
#15
Drifting
Take the shock out, put an impact socket on the bolt with a 1/2 drive ratchet and work the bolt both ways and keep applying penetrant...I know it will work because I had to do it on 3 of the 4 bolts on my car!
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#17
Drifting
I had a similar problem, you have to use penetrating oil over a couple of days. Spray it then drive it, the heat and vibration gets the oil down in threads. It loosened up after that.
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#19
Drifting
It was a good idea for myself as it made me decide to buy Billsteins. I tried lowereing the car when I was performing the alignment (I was trying to play with the setup due to wheel hop issues) I couldn't break the bolts loose? put some penetrant on all four bolts after the alignment and drove the car for a week or so. Well I broke my wrench next time I tried and figured I would go ahead and buy the shocks and try and get them out then as the alignment tweaking did very little to help my hop issue.
Switching out the shocks and lowereing the car in my garage was very easy, very fast, took my friend Mark and I about 2 1/2 - 3 hours and could do it all a second time in an 1 1/2 - 2 hours.
Oh, cut the rear bushings while your add it, I used a sawzaw and a small hand saw.
Switching out the shocks and lowereing the car in my garage was very easy, very fast, took my friend Mark and I about 2 1/2 - 3 hours and could do it all a second time in an 1 1/2 - 2 hours.
Oh, cut the rear bushings while your add it, I used a sawzaw and a small hand saw.
Last edited by Neumonic2002; 05-15-2010 at 03:48 PM.
#20
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It was a good idea for myself as it made me decide to buy Billsteins. I tried lowereing the car when I was performing the alignment (I was trying to play with the setup due to wheel hop issues) I couldn't break the bolts loose? put some penetrant on all four bolts after the alignment and drove the car for a week or so. Well I broke my wrench next time I tried and figured I would go ahead and buy the shocks and try and get them out then as the alignment tweaking did very little to help my hop issue.
Switching out the shocks and lowereing the car in my garage was very easy, very fast, took my friend Mark and I about 2 1/2 - 3 hours and could do it all a second time in an 1 1/2 - 2 hours.
Oh, cut the rear bushings while your add it, I used a sawzaw and a small hand saw.
Switching out the shocks and lowereing the car in my garage was very easy, very fast, took my friend Mark and I about 2 1/2 - 3 hours and could do it all a second time in an 1 1/2 - 2 hours.
Oh, cut the rear bushings while your add it, I used a sawzaw and a small hand saw.
sprayed the bolts, will probably do so once a day for a couple days. I have the WCC bolts so i dont think there will be a need to cut the bushings. wish me luck. thanks for all the input everyone!