dennis50nj

Jeff if i said take a dremel or or die grinder cut off wheel any type saw everyone would be ok with it, but bend and break even though its the cleanest and fastest way people get what a crappy job or way to do it

Prodago

got er done!
also let me point out in "VETTE PHASE'S" Pic you're shift indicator(little orange piece) has to be inserted into the hole of the shifter (white piece) which I've tried to show however i don't know how to enlarge my lines in adobe 9!!!I learned the hard way and got the boot all nice and neat around the shifter, then noticed that I was in 1st and never moved stick!!!! took it all back apart.....which is par for course for my projects...
I chose to drill a small hole and tie it back, this way if for whatever reason I can reverse back to stock. cant get the stupid pic to load. errrggggg

dennis50nj

that will work nice job

Fctatesc

I have been fighting the shift lock problem for 7 years. After some dealer investigation, they told me the problem was the "Stop Lamp Relay" under the floor board. I have replaced it several times and carry a spare. Now, replacing it doesn't seem to work anymore. I am fed up with the problem and want to disable the lock solenoid or break the plastic hook. Do I have to take the console completely off, or can I open the shift boot easily to access the solenoid?? Can I get a description of how to access the solenoid?? Thanks

Justasheet

Take the console off to the point where you can turn it sideways. Taking it all the way off is the best. The rest is pretty clear.

Prodago

Fctatesc

In searching the Forum, all I can find is console removal on a manual shift transmission. Can someone point me in the right direction to find console removal on a 2005 C6 with automatic transmission?? Most of the process is the same, except for the shift boot. The **** doesn't seem to come off and the boot is also attached to the (P,R,N,D,2,1) Panel. I just want to cut the lock-out solenoid hook as "dennis50nj" did in an earlier post.

Prodago

i'm trying to remember, hope this helps. once you get the console loose and the shifter is only thing holding it on, there is a bezel or plastic ring that you have to unclip. these points are at the "north" and "south" points. Chevy is quite clever about concealing how to take things apart. I think someone on here has a photo with arrows pointing to the spots. I have a photo however don't know how to draw arrows on it.... the plastic cover on your P,R,N,D...etc just prys out. also the little red indicator has a small rod that has to be reconnected. trust me, i've put the entire thing back together only to realize that the indicator never moved!
hope this helps..

Fctatesc

I am beginning to think the shift **** does not come free by pulling any clip located under the ****. Remember on an automatic there is a button on top of the **** that allows the shift rod to move out of park. Can I free the boot from the console by pulling it out after removing the PRND321 plate?? (you say it just pops out) I know it might be really tough to get it back in place. I just need to access the solenoid and the locking pawl.

Prodago

you need to pry off the black plastic bezel (ring) that the boot attaches to. you can remove the boot from this ring by carefully removing it. it has an elastic band that keeps it onto ring. there are a couple of little pins that help you line it up when putting it back on, but once you get the boot off you can see a bit more, then like I said the top part of the gear indicator simply pries out. hope this helps.

Guys, am I missing anything??? Can you add anything more that may be able to help out?

EVRose

There is a C clip under the leather in front of the shift ****. Stick a small screwdriver in the slot and pry it out and the **** will come right off.

dennis50nj

I just lifted the whole shifter housing out, high enough to unhook the shifter cable from the bottom it just pops off and pushes back on, then i removed the rubber boot from the bottom, that gave me access to the mechanical workings, and access to break the black hook locking mechanism, leaving the boot and shifter **** on

Fctatesc

Thanks so much for the info. Point of clarification:
Prying off the black plastic bezel and/or removing the shifter unit occurs "after the console cover has been removed" ???
It looks like the black plastic bezel can be pried loose from the top of the console. This should give access to the solenoid and the connecting linkage.
Sorry, I am going to need step by step instructions

Prodago

i did not have to remove shift ****, i simply pulled it up (sorta like turning it inside out) high enough and it stayed. if you look at my pic closely at the top you can see the white material that is the underside of boot pleather.

Am i understanding you correctly Fctatesc, are you asking if the console has to be removed? if so, the answer is yes. if you need help with that it's fairly straight forward with a couple of hidden screws. the ones i always forget about are the ones that are hidden under the traction control ****. you have to gently pry that off and this will reveal 2 screws that are accessible inside the armrest.
I used needlenose pliers to compress the plastic clips enough to pry the top of the bezel off, then do the same with the ones one the bottom, i had to do it a couple of times because when i got one up a hair then tried to do the other one, the first one slipped back into place...but don't get frustrated....you can do it. once it comes off you will see how easy it is when you know what your doing. but like I've said before, these Chevy engineers really know what they're doing by cleverly putting parts together. This forum has been a ton of help for me. I hope this helps you. keep posting if this doesn't get you there and these other guys will fill in the blanks. I wish I had mine apart so I could take pics. Actually if you do not find answers by this Friday I will take mine apart for you and provide pics.
thanks
John

Fctatesc

Please, don't take your shifting mechanism apart for me. That is very kind, but unnecessary. I think I may have found a way around the problem, at least for now. If I turn on the ignition via the Accessory mode, simply pressing on the brake releases the lock. Then I can shift to Neutral and start the car. So far, that has worked in every trial. I have to wait until I have a failure to see if that action overrides the failure. I am trying all possibilities before taking everything apart.

Fctatesc

OK, I have found a way to unlock the shift pawl when everything else fails. Every now and then the Active Handling System fails and the icon light stays on. During these times, the car cannot be shifted out of park because the shift lock pawl does not release. However, if I turn off the car, put it in accessory mode and put my foot on the break, the pawl will release. Then all I have to do is shift to Neutral to start the car, and I am gone on my way. I am so glad this saves me from taking the console off to access the shift mechanism.
BTW, the Active Handling System doesn't really fail. Either an intermittent short in the connection block or a failure of the break light control relay will cause it to indicate a failure. The Active Handling System icon comes on intermittently while I drive. When it gets too frequent, I change the break light relay and it goes away for a month or even a year at a time. After three trips to the dealer, that is all they could come up with as a cause. All they can offer is: We could change out the Body Control Module and see if that solves the problem. I think that is too expensive for a "maybe" fix.
So, now that I have a way around the Active Handling System failure, I am good.

dennis50nj

good news

EVRose

That procedure is actually in the owners manual. Not the active handling thing but the "put it in accessory mode" to shift out of park if it gets stuck.

C5pilot

I'm having this problem on my 07 right now. Using accessory mode didn't help in my case at all. I tried charging the battery, disconnecting the battery, banging on the lever, accessory mode, "key on, eng off" mode, but nothing worked. Car sat overnight at work (not great part of town!) and this morning it worked normally.

I'm not sure how accessory mode would help unless it's a brake circuit issue. If the solenoid isn't activating (burned out, stuck, etc), completing the circuit via another route (accessory mode) wouldn't do anything. Or am I missing something?

dennis50nj

acc didn't help me either, if the noid is bad its bad