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I need to know sway bar end link noise TSB number???
Here you go.
#PIC4475B:
Snap Clunk Noise From Front Or Rear Of Vehicle - keywords click link noise snap stabilizer stable suspension - (Sep 12, 2008)
Subject: Snap Clunk Noise From Front or Rear Of Vehicle
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Some customers may comment of a snap clunk noise from under the vehicle. This may occur while driving or parking lot maneuvers and may be the result of the stabilizer links making noise.
Recommendation/Instructions:
Isolate the front and rear stabilizer bar links one at a time and evaluate. Replace any link subject to noise.
Note: The XLR base vehicle is equipped with a front stabilizer only. XLR V-series and the Chevrolet Corvette have front and rear stabilizers.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
Snap Clunk Noise From Front Or Rear Of Vehicle - keywords click link noise snap stabilizer stable suspension - (Sep 12, 2008)
Subject: Snap Clunk Noise From Front or Rear Of Vehicle
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Some customers may comment of a snap clunk noise from under the vehicle. This may occur while driving or parking lot maneuvers and may be the result of the stabilizer links making noise.
Recommendation/Instructions:
Isolate the front and rear stabilizer bar links one at a time and evaluate. Replace any link subject to noise.
Note: The XLR base vehicle is equipped with a front stabilizer only. XLR V-series and the Chevrolet Corvette have front and rear stabilizers.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
Sheesh, posting the PI was helpful, but I don't know that the PI was helpful itself (in regards to GM). I mean, isn't that how you would go about fixing and end link noise anyway?
__________________ Phone: 484-334-8833 Owner of CULTRAG Performance
RichieRich,
Nice to see you over here. I always see Rich at the Nor Cal section. You see, we here in Nor Cal are very glad to have him over at a great GM dealership in Rio Vista Ca. Thanks Richie! BTW replacing the frt/rear links at your shop made a huge difference.
Maybe you should post that TSB in Nor Cal.
I'm on my 3rd set of endlinks. This last set came from Gene and I'm hoping they are the new ones. They did look a little different than the previous set.
I'm on my 3rd set of endlinks. This last set came from Gene and I'm hoping they are the new ones. They did look a little different than the previous set.
I have more of a loud distinguished click when loading and unloading the trans in say 1st to reverse or when shifting from 1-2, 2-3 more noticible at slow speeds. annoying at best but could be something worse like a worn ujoint(they appear to be tight). 05 MZ6 has about 34,000 on it, out of warranty. Been chasing it for about a month and not getting any worse more annoying right now. Just wondering if it could be these end links? Maybe something else? Anyway to tell for sure if it is the end links. I have checked the axel nuts and torqued to spec. Thanks Steve
I have a 2004 Z06, but maybe the end links are my issue.... see below. What do you think ?
So I have been messing around with this weird knock in my front suspension for a couple months now. No luck so far.
History:
1.) I lowered my car Feb 08 on C6 bolts/longer bolts in the rear. and got it fully aligned at a High Performance shop.
2.) 6 months later (2000 miles) I noticed a weird knocking sound in the front right when I turned. Drove over to LG's and they found that the lower A arm bolt had backed off and was loose.
3.) Went back to the High performance shop that did my alignment and complained that they did not torque everything down.... They re-aligned it again for me and said its torqued.
4.) 6 months later (2000 miles) I'm starting to notice that the steering wheel is not correct (slightly turned when driving straight). Car seems to pull side to side over bumpy roads. Soon after I hear that knock sound come back in the front right .
5.) I go to the RUFF Porsche dealer locally that all vette guys say is great for alignments. While he was doing the alignment I told him the history. He found all the alignment bolts on front and rear loose again.... Alignment was way off again. They do the alignment perfect. Drives straight as an arrow now. Everything torqued to spec and its not moving. I marked all the bolts. Problem is that the knock sound is still there.
My Observations:
1.) Its a single knock sound when turning, I can feel it too.
2.) Taking a right or left turn "softly", it will NOT knock.
3.) Taking a right or left turn "hard", it will make a single knock sound.
4.) Turning the steering wheel sitting in my driveway "hard" right or left, NO knock.
5.) If I take a hard right turn, it knocks... If I turn hard right again... NO knock. If I continue to turn right hard, it will not knock again.
6.) If I take a hard left turn, it knocks... If I turn hard left again... NO knock. If I continue to turn left hard, it will not knock again.
7.) If I drive down my street at any speed and turn HARD... Right-Left-Right-Left... It will knock each time I turn the opposite direction.
8.) I checked all the bolts I could under the front right suspension but nothing is loose.
9.) I raised the car and tried to forcefully move the tire side to side and up and down with my arms. It feels tight.
Any thoughts from anyone with experience on these suspensions ?
Car is a 2004 Z06 with 16K on the odo
It seems like something is loose or worn out. Something is slipping to one side when I turn hard right, and it stays there till I turn hard left...etc....
Likely due the shop that screwed my alignment the first 2 times due to undue stress on the components....
Just picked up a new set of front endlinks from partstaxi.
For 50 bucks I'd rather swap my own endlinks on myself than worry about the hassle of dropping the car off for a day and it POSSIBLY not being under warranty since I have aftermarket swaybars.
I have more of a loud distinguished click when loading and unloading the trans in say 1st to reverse or when shifting from 1-2, 2-3 more noticible at slow speeds. annoying at best but could be something worse like a worn ujoint(they appear to be tight). 05 MZ6 has about 34,000 on it, out of warranty. Been chasing it for about a month and not getting any worse more annoying right now. Just wondering if it could be these end links? Maybe something else? Anyway to tell for sure if it is the end links. I have checked the axel nuts and torqued to spec. Thanks Steve
THANK YOU Torquetube, I had been watching this post and had done several searches looking for an answer (not sure why I never came across this post) and this sounds exactly what my clicking sound is. I read the entire post and will maybe try retorquing the axel nuts or maybe try some new nuts. Does anyone know if this issue of pulling the axel splines, hub faces, lubing the axels and ends of the face is a job I can do with out taking it to the dealer? I do have mechanical skills and usually do most of my work myself and have since I was 16 working on most anything (Im only 55 now). Just never pulled axels on anything newer. I will do a search and see if their is a how to on this or someone with a service manual could post up. Much appreciated.
THANK YOU Torquetube, I had been watching this post and had done several searches looking for an answer (not sure why I never came across this post) and this sounds exactly what my clicking sound is. I read the entire post and will maybe try retorquing the axel nuts or maybe try some new nuts. Does anyone know if this issue of pulling the axel splines, hub faces, lubing the axels and ends of the face is a job I can do with out taking it to the dealer? I do have mechanical skills and usually do most of my work myself and have since I was 16 working on most anything (Im only 55 now). Just never pulled axels on anything newer. I will do a search and see if their is a how to on this or someone with a service manual could post up. Much appreciated.
It's not too bad - remove the axle nut, jack the car, remove the wheel, disconnect the tie rod from the hub, unplug the wheel speed sensor, unhook the parking brake cable, and disconnect the upper ball joint. I believe it was necessary to disconnect the damper at the hub, too (use a small jack to lower the control arm). With the hub now mostly disconnected, pivot it out of the way, taking care not to place too much stress on the brake hydraulic hose.
With everything bent way over to one side, you should be able to _just_ push the splined shaft of the outer CV joint back far enough into the hub to get it out. Once it's out, lube the splines and the flat at the base of the splines thoroughly. I used Honda Moly 60.
It goes back together pretty much the other way around.
Be careful when pulling the splined shaft out of the back of the hub not to gouge the flat wheel-speed cable that's built-in to the hub itself.
To pop the tapered ball joint spindles you may require a cantilevered-style ball joint separator. A dead-blow hammer on the side of the hub works well, too. I wouldn't use a pickle fork.
Installation involves torquing a lot of fasteners to certain amounts, so bring your torque wrench and shop manual.
08-07-2009, 06:32 PM
. They re-aligned it again for me and said its torqued.
. 
. Alignment was way off again. They do the alignment perfect. Drives straight as an arrow now. Everything torqued to spec and its not moving. I marked all the bolts. 
Problem is that the knock sound is still there. 
