Harmonic balancer LS2 (2006)C6
07-22-2009, 04:48 AM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2009
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Harmonic balancer LS2 (2006)C6
I think that my Harmonic balancer has gone bad.
Was there a recall on the Harmonic balancer that I missed?
2006 C6 Ls2 6speed auto
In case you wounder how I came to this conclusion it is because I heard a noise during acceleration (I 1st thought was a belt) so decided to look under the hood. The Balancer has one hell of a wobble at idle. I figured it was the balancer or the pulley. I showed it to a friend that is a mechanic and he agreed. The only thing is that have 20,xxx miles on my vet and its now under the extended warranty GMPP. I have a $200 deductible. I have not priced the cost of the parts and doing it myself vrs. just taking it in paying the $200 and having the dealer do the work.
Was there a recall on the Harmonic balancer that I missed?
2006 C6 Ls2 6speed auto
In case you wounder how I came to this conclusion it is because I heard a noise during acceleration (I 1st thought was a belt) so decided to look under the hood. The Balancer has one hell of a wobble at idle. I figured it was the balancer or the pulley. I showed it to a friend that is a mechanic and he agreed. The only thing is that have 20,xxx miles on my vet and its now under the extended warranty GMPP. I have a $200 deductible. I have not priced the cost of the parts and doing it myself vrs. just taking it in paying the $200 and having the dealer do the work.
07-22-2009, 08:26 AM
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Phila Suburbs 2023 C8 & 2013 650ix
Posts: 10,414
Received 2,223 Likes
on
1,140 Posts
First, there was no recall for any year on the crank pulley (harmonic balancer).
There was a TSB if you threw the belts caused by the crank bolt loosening on the first 11039 cars in 05.
Wobble of the crank pulley, by itself, will not make any noise. Excessive wobble will make the main belt chirp and that is the condition that necessitates replacement.
It's a rather involved repair and costs around $1000 for the dealer to do it.
There was a TSB if you threw the belts caused by the crank bolt loosening on the first 11039 cars in 05.
Wobble of the crank pulley, by itself, will not make any noise. Excessive wobble will make the main belt chirp and that is the condition that necessitates replacement.
It's a rather involved repair and costs around $1000 for the dealer to do it.
07-22-2009, 12:38 PM
#3
Instructor
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My girlfriend took her C5 to Bill Heard once because of a similar problem and they told her "vettes dont have harmonic balancers/crank pulley." 
I went back there with her and what do you know- crankpulley way off balance creating metal on metal damage.
I went back there with her and what do you know- crankpulley way off balance creating metal on metal damage.
07-23-2009, 07:55 AM
#4
Cruising
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: PARIS PARIS ILE DE FRANCE
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi, I think I'm concerned with this, my Corvette last five serial number are 07050, the car was sold in january of 2005, the belts starts squeaking (a/c belt ) so I decided to change belts, tensioner pulley and idler on both accessory belt and a/c, when I put the socket on the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) I discovered the crankshaft pulley bolt were loose, and I wonder if the crankshaft did move forward far enough to worn the belts on the edge so that they make noise now.
Is there any solution , I can't remove the bolt because it is too long and the steering gear is too near from the pulley, access to the bolt head is very hard when it is time to tight it ( perhaps the solution is to unbolt engine mounts and raise the the engine), but I think I can still put some loctite on the bolt thread (it might be the solution to get it tight) but I don't know the torque bolt specification ?
Does someone can talk about this expereince it should help.
Sorry for the mistakes I'm French...
Is there any solution , I can't remove the bolt because it is too long and the steering gear is too near from the pulley, access to the bolt head is very hard when it is time to tight it ( perhaps the solution is to unbolt engine mounts and raise the the engine), but I think I can still put some loctite on the bolt thread (it might be the solution to get it tight) but I don't know the torque bolt specification ?
Does someone can talk about this expereince it should help.
Sorry for the mistakes I'm French...
07-23-2009, 08:18 AM
#5
Race Director
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Phila Suburbs 2023 C8 & 2013 650ix
Posts: 10,414
Received 2,223 Likes
on
1,140 Posts
If the bolt holding the crank pulley on is loose, DO NOT START THE CAR AGAIN. You have to have it fixed before running the engine or you risk serious damage to the front of the engine and accessories. The repair is involved and just tightening the bolt is not a valid repair. Just to get a feel for the work involved here is the TSB for the repair.
TSB 05-06-01-001A (Feb 8, 2005)
Check Gages Light, Battery Voltage Low, Accessory Drive Belt Slipping or Missing (Install Washer from WPC and Crankshaft Balancer) #05-06-01-001A - (Feb 8, 2005)
Table 1: Warranty Parts Center Parts
Table 2: GMSPO Parts
Table 3: Part Request Form -- Warranty Parts Center
Check Gages Light, Battery Voltage Low, Accessory Drive Belt Slipping or Missing (Install Washer from WPC and Crankshaft Balancer)
2005 Chevrolet Corvette
with 6.0L Engine (VIN U - RPO LS2)
Built Prior to VIN Breakpoint 55111039
This bulletin is being revised to include VIN breakpoint and additional inspection information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-01-001 (Section 6 -- Engine).
Condition
Some customers may comment on the Check Gages Light or the Battery Voltage Low indicator coming on. Additionally, some customers may comment on the accessory drive belt either slipping or being missing.
Cause
The crankshaft balancer bolt may have become loose.
Correction
Install a new crankshaft balancer pulley, washer and a new balancer pulley bolt using the following procedure:
Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.
Remove the air duct (6).
Remove the radiator support.
Remove the accessory drive belt.
Disconnect the generator.
Remove the generator bolts and generator.
Disconnect the steering intermediate shaft at the steering gear.
Install the lifting links to the engine (J 41798).
Install the fixture for lifting the engine (J 41803).
Hoist the vehicle.
Remove the front wheels.
Loosen the motor mounts.
Install the leaf spring fixture (J 33432-A).
Disconnect the tie rods (5) from the steering knuckle (4).
Disconnect the speed sensor.
Remove the lower ball joint nut and disconnect the lower control arm from the knuckle.
Disconnect the bottom shock absorber bolts.
Disconnect the ABS module bracket bolts.
Disconnect the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp bracket bolts and shaft.
Disconnect the cooler line bolts to the engine cradle.
Install a suitable jack under the cradle.
Remove the cradle nuts.
Lower the cradle.
Remove the A/C belt.
Disconnect and remove the starter.
Install the flywheel holding fixture J 42386-A.
Remove the cooling fan bolts and fan assembly.
Scribe or mark balancer orientation.
Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt (139). Do not discard the crankshaft balancer bolt. The balancer bolt will be used during the balancer installation procedure.
Use the J 41816 (1) and the J 41816-2 (2) in order to remove the crankshaft balancer.
Place the old and new balancers on the bench and orient them the same way (i.e. face up with a weight balance hole at 12 o'clock). Scribe/mark the new balancer in the same location as the old balancer. Do not transfer weight pins on manual transmission equipped vehicles. Most vehicles will be balanced without the use of any additional weight pins. Because some balancers may have spun on the crankshaft, transferring weight pins to the same position would produce a random imbalance. For vehicles that exhibit imbalance (very rare), contact Technical Assistance.
Inspect for the following conditions:
• Metal transfer to the crank post. Replace the crankshaft if metal has been transferred to it or it is damaged.
• Metal transfer or damage to the timing chain sprocket face. Replace the sprocket if either condition is present.
• Verify that the bolt does not bottom out in the crank post.
Install the new washer onto the crankshaft and push into place by hand.
Install the new balancer paying attention to line up the scribe mark.
Use the J 41665 in order to install the balancer.
Assemble the threaded rod, nut, washer and installer. Insert the smaller end of the installer into the front of the balancer.
Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft.
Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool. Position the larger end of the installer against the front of the balancer.
Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is installed onto the crankshaft.
Remove the balancer installation tool.
Notice: Failure to apply proper torque to the old balancer bolt may result in the balancer not being fully seated. This could lead to failure of this joint in the future.
Install the old balancer bolt and tighten.
Tighten
Tighten the old balancer bolt to 330N•m(240 ft. lb).
Important: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
Remove the old bolt and measure the hub to crankshaft distance.
Coat the three to five threads of the new bolt with thread locker (LOCKTITE™ 272) P/N 12345493 before installation.
Notice: Be sure to follow the torque procedure for installing the new crankshaft bolt. Use of impact tools, or not using torque and angle method will result in joint failure.
Install and tighten the new crankshaft bolt.
• Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50N•m (37 lb ft).
Put a paint stripe on the bolt running from the 12 o'clock to the 6 o'clock position in order to verify the correct torque requested in the next step.
• Important: When tightening for the second pass, a minimum torque of 320 N•m (236 lb ft) should be observed. If this torque is not achieved, the bolt should be replaced.
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 45059.
Important: Recheck the position of the previously painted stripe to assure 140 degree rotation. Achieving the correct torque angle is critical to the success of this repair. Over-torquing or under-torquing the joint will result in an unsatisfactory repair.
Remove the J 42386-A Flywheel Holding Tool.
Install the starter and bolts. Tighten the starter bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the starter bolts to 50 N•m (37 lb ft).
Important: Orient the purple lead wire to the 10 o'clock position when installing.
Connect the starter wiring.
Install the starter motor S terminal washer and purple lead wire (1).
Install the S terminal nut (2) and tighten.
Tighten
Tighten the S terminal nut to 4 N•m (35 lb in).
Important: Orient the gray and rust harness leads to the 6 o'clock and 7 o'clock position.
Install the gray and rust harness leads to the solenoid.
Raise and align the cradle.
Install and tighten the cradle nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts, using hand tools only, to 110 N•m(81 lb ft).
Install and tighten the engine mount nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 65 N•m(48 lb ft).
Install the A/C belt.
Install the cooler line bolts.
Install the fan shroud assembly and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 5 N•m(44 lb in).
Position the stabilizer shaft and install insulator clamps and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp bolts to 58N•m (43 lb ft).
Install the tie rod to the steering knuckle.
Install the outer tie rod end stud nut to the outer tie rod end stud and tighten .
Tighten
Tighten the outer tie rod end stud nut to 20 N•m(15 lb ft) to seat the stud.
Turn the nut an additional 160 degrees.
Check for the outer tie rod end stud nut for a minimum final torque of 45 N•m(33 lb ft).
Install the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Tighten the lower control arm ball joint stud nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 20 N•m (15 lb ft) to seat the ball joint stud.
Turn the ball joint stud nut an additional 210 degrees.
Check the ball joint stud nut for a minimum final torque of 55 N•m (41 lb ft).
Install the shock bolts and tighten.
Tighten
Tighten the shock absorber lower mounting nuts to 28 N•m (21 lb ft).
Repeat tie rod, lower ball joint and shock for the other side.
Install the tires and lug nuts.
Important: Tighten the nuts evenly and alternately in order to avoid excessive run out of the tire and wheel assembly.
Using the J 39544-KIT , tighten the wheel nuts in the appropriate sequence shown.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts in sequence to 140 N•m(100 lb ft).
Remove the support jack.
Remove the Leaf Spring Compressor (J 33432-A).
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the engine support fixture.
Remove the engine support links.
Install the upper radiator support and tighten the bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 9 N•m (80 lb in).
Install the coolant and EVAP lines to the fan shroud.
Install the engine cover and oil fill cap.
Install the intermediate shaft.
LOCTITE™ the steering intermediate shaft bolts and install.
Tighten
Tighten the lower coupling retaining bolt to 34 N•m (25 lb ft).
Install the generator and tighten the bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the generator bolts to 50 N•m(37 lb ft).
Connect the generator wiring.
Tighten
Tighten the battery feed cable nut to 13 N•m(10 lb ft).
Install the new accessory belt.
Install the air duct and box.
Connect the battery cable to the battery.
Perform a crankshaft variation relearn procedure.
Parts Information
Order a washer from the WPC using the form at the end of this bulletin. Fax the request form to the WPC at 248-371-0192, or E-mail to warrantypartscenterusa@gm.com .
All other parts should be ordered from GMSPO. Use the normal ordering process for all orders.
Warranty Parts Center Parts WPC Part Number
Description
Qty
305
Washer, Crankshaft Balancer
1
GMSPO Parts Part Number
Description
Qty
12557840
Bolt, Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer
1
12583637
Balancer, Crankshaft Harmonic
1
12579229
Belt, Water Pump, Power Steering and Generator
1 as req'd
12579228
Belt, Air Conditioning Compressor
1 as req'd
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
J0710
Pulley, Crankshaft Balancer - Replace
2.3 hrs
TSB 05-06-01-001A (Feb 8, 2005)
Check Gages Light, Battery Voltage Low, Accessory Drive Belt Slipping or Missing (Install Washer from WPC and Crankshaft Balancer) #05-06-01-001A - (Feb 8, 2005)
Table 1: Warranty Parts Center Parts
Table 2: GMSPO Parts
Table 3: Part Request Form -- Warranty Parts Center
Check Gages Light, Battery Voltage Low, Accessory Drive Belt Slipping or Missing (Install Washer from WPC and Crankshaft Balancer)
2005 Chevrolet Corvette
with 6.0L Engine (VIN U - RPO LS2)
Built Prior to VIN Breakpoint 55111039
This bulletin is being revised to include VIN breakpoint and additional inspection information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-01-001 (Section 6 -- Engine).
Condition
Some customers may comment on the Check Gages Light or the Battery Voltage Low indicator coming on. Additionally, some customers may comment on the accessory drive belt either slipping or being missing.
Cause
The crankshaft balancer bolt may have become loose.
Correction
Install a new crankshaft balancer pulley, washer and a new balancer pulley bolt using the following procedure:
Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.
Remove the air duct (6).
Remove the radiator support.
Remove the accessory drive belt.
Disconnect the generator.
Remove the generator bolts and generator.
Disconnect the steering intermediate shaft at the steering gear.
Install the lifting links to the engine (J 41798).
Install the fixture for lifting the engine (J 41803).
Hoist the vehicle.
Remove the front wheels.
Loosen the motor mounts.
Install the leaf spring fixture (J 33432-A).
Disconnect the tie rods (5) from the steering knuckle (4).
Disconnect the speed sensor.
Remove the lower ball joint nut and disconnect the lower control arm from the knuckle.
Disconnect the bottom shock absorber bolts.
Disconnect the ABS module bracket bolts.
Disconnect the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp bracket bolts and shaft.
Disconnect the cooler line bolts to the engine cradle.
Install a suitable jack under the cradle.
Remove the cradle nuts.
Lower the cradle.
Remove the A/C belt.
Disconnect and remove the starter.
Install the flywheel holding fixture J 42386-A.
Remove the cooling fan bolts and fan assembly.
Scribe or mark balancer orientation.
Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt (139). Do not discard the crankshaft balancer bolt. The balancer bolt will be used during the balancer installation procedure.
Use the J 41816 (1) and the J 41816-2 (2) in order to remove the crankshaft balancer.
Place the old and new balancers on the bench and orient them the same way (i.e. face up with a weight balance hole at 12 o'clock). Scribe/mark the new balancer in the same location as the old balancer. Do not transfer weight pins on manual transmission equipped vehicles. Most vehicles will be balanced without the use of any additional weight pins. Because some balancers may have spun on the crankshaft, transferring weight pins to the same position would produce a random imbalance. For vehicles that exhibit imbalance (very rare), contact Technical Assistance.
Inspect for the following conditions:
• Metal transfer to the crank post. Replace the crankshaft if metal has been transferred to it or it is damaged.
• Metal transfer or damage to the timing chain sprocket face. Replace the sprocket if either condition is present.
• Verify that the bolt does not bottom out in the crank post.
Install the new washer onto the crankshaft and push into place by hand.
Install the new balancer paying attention to line up the scribe mark.
Use the J 41665 in order to install the balancer.
Assemble the threaded rod, nut, washer and installer. Insert the smaller end of the installer into the front of the balancer.
Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft.
Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool. Position the larger end of the installer against the front of the balancer.
Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is installed onto the crankshaft.
Remove the balancer installation tool.
Notice: Failure to apply proper torque to the old balancer bolt may result in the balancer not being fully seated. This could lead to failure of this joint in the future.
Install the old balancer bolt and tighten.
Tighten
Tighten the old balancer bolt to 330N•m(240 ft. lb).
Important: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
Remove the old bolt and measure the hub to crankshaft distance.
Coat the three to five threads of the new bolt with thread locker (LOCKTITE™ 272) P/N 12345493 before installation.
Notice: Be sure to follow the torque procedure for installing the new crankshaft bolt. Use of impact tools, or not using torque and angle method will result in joint failure.
Install and tighten the new crankshaft bolt.
• Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50N•m (37 lb ft).
Put a paint stripe on the bolt running from the 12 o'clock to the 6 o'clock position in order to verify the correct torque requested in the next step.
• Important: When tightening for the second pass, a minimum torque of 320 N•m (236 lb ft) should be observed. If this torque is not achieved, the bolt should be replaced.
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 45059.
Important: Recheck the position of the previously painted stripe to assure 140 degree rotation. Achieving the correct torque angle is critical to the success of this repair. Over-torquing or under-torquing the joint will result in an unsatisfactory repair.
Remove the J 42386-A Flywheel Holding Tool.
Install the starter and bolts. Tighten the starter bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the starter bolts to 50 N•m (37 lb ft).
Important: Orient the purple lead wire to the 10 o'clock position when installing.
Connect the starter wiring.
Install the starter motor S terminal washer and purple lead wire (1).
Install the S terminal nut (2) and tighten.
Tighten
Tighten the S terminal nut to 4 N•m (35 lb in).
Important: Orient the gray and rust harness leads to the 6 o'clock and 7 o'clock position.
Install the gray and rust harness leads to the solenoid.
Raise and align the cradle.
Install and tighten the cradle nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts, using hand tools only, to 110 N•m(81 lb ft).
Install and tighten the engine mount nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 65 N•m(48 lb ft).
Install the A/C belt.
Install the cooler line bolts.
Install the fan shroud assembly and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 5 N•m(44 lb in).
Position the stabilizer shaft and install insulator clamps and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp bolts to 58N•m (43 lb ft).
Install the tie rod to the steering knuckle.
Install the outer tie rod end stud nut to the outer tie rod end stud and tighten .
Tighten
Tighten the outer tie rod end stud nut to 20 N•m(15 lb ft) to seat the stud.
Turn the nut an additional 160 degrees.
Check for the outer tie rod end stud nut for a minimum final torque of 45 N•m(33 lb ft).
Install the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Tighten the lower control arm ball joint stud nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 20 N•m (15 lb ft) to seat the ball joint stud.
Turn the ball joint stud nut an additional 210 degrees.
Check the ball joint stud nut for a minimum final torque of 55 N•m (41 lb ft).
Install the shock bolts and tighten.
Tighten
Tighten the shock absorber lower mounting nuts to 28 N•m (21 lb ft).
Repeat tie rod, lower ball joint and shock for the other side.
Install the tires and lug nuts.
Important: Tighten the nuts evenly and alternately in order to avoid excessive run out of the tire and wheel assembly.
Using the J 39544-KIT , tighten the wheel nuts in the appropriate sequence shown.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts in sequence to 140 N•m(100 lb ft).
Remove the support jack.
Remove the Leaf Spring Compressor (J 33432-A).
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the engine support fixture.
Remove the engine support links.
Install the upper radiator support and tighten the bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 9 N•m (80 lb in).
Install the coolant and EVAP lines to the fan shroud.
Install the engine cover and oil fill cap.
Install the intermediate shaft.
LOCTITE™ the steering intermediate shaft bolts and install.
Tighten
Tighten the lower coupling retaining bolt to 34 N•m (25 lb ft).
Install the generator and tighten the bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the generator bolts to 50 N•m(37 lb ft).
Connect the generator wiring.
Tighten
Tighten the battery feed cable nut to 13 N•m(10 lb ft).
Install the new accessory belt.
Install the air duct and box.
Connect the battery cable to the battery.
Perform a crankshaft variation relearn procedure.
Parts Information
Order a washer from the WPC using the form at the end of this bulletin. Fax the request form to the WPC at 248-371-0192, or E-mail to warrantypartscenterusa@gm.com .
All other parts should be ordered from GMSPO. Use the normal ordering process for all orders.
Warranty Parts Center Parts WPC Part Number
Description
Qty
305
Washer, Crankshaft Balancer
1
GMSPO Parts Part Number
Description
Qty
12557840
Bolt, Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer
1
12583637
Balancer, Crankshaft Harmonic
1
12579229
Belt, Water Pump, Power Steering and Generator
1 as req'd
12579228
Belt, Air Conditioning Compressor
1 as req'd
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
J0710
Pulley, Crankshaft Balancer - Replace
2.3 hrs
07-23-2009, 01:22 PM
#6
Pro
Can you post a picture of this part so I can check mine?
I think that my Harmonic balancer has gone bad.
Was there a recall on the Harmonic balancer that I missed?
2006 C6 Ls2 6speed auto
In case you wounder how I came to this conclusion it is because I heard a noise during acceleration (I 1st thought was a belt) so decided to look under the hood. The Balancer has one hell of a wobble at idle. I figured it was the balancer or the pulley. I showed it to a friend that is a mechanic and he agreed. The only thing is that have 20,xxx miles on my vet and its now under the extended warranty GMPP. I have a $200 deductible. I have not priced the cost of the parts and doing it myself vrs. just taking it in paying the $200 and having the dealer do the work.
Was there a recall on the Harmonic balancer that I missed?
2006 C6 Ls2 6speed auto
In case you wounder how I came to this conclusion it is because I heard a noise during acceleration (I 1st thought was a belt) so decided to look under the hood. The Balancer has one hell of a wobble at idle. I figured it was the balancer or the pulley. I showed it to a friend that is a mechanic and he agreed. The only thing is that have 20,xxx miles on my vet and its now under the extended warranty GMPP. I have a $200 deductible. I have not priced the cost of the parts and doing it myself vrs. just taking it in paying the $200 and having the dealer do the work.
07-24-2009, 09:29 AM
#7
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2009
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The car is at the dealer so I am unable to post any pics... sorry..
(just look at the bottom pulley in the front of the engine)
There was a slight wobble to ballancer when it was still under warranty but the dealer said it was fine in February. Now that its out of the factory warranty and under the extended extended GMPP the wobble has gotten much worse and was causing a squeak. the labor time is 7.1 hrs the part is $240 that puts the repair somewhere around $1,000... FUN HA...
My GMPP deductible is $200, less than the cost of the part so someone else can turn the wrenches for a change...
Well I very disappointed in the GM dealers in my area and will defendantly go out of state to buy any Chevy product in the future.
(just look at the bottom pulley in the front of the engine)
There was a slight wobble to ballancer when it was still under warranty but the dealer said it was fine in February. Now that its out of the factory warranty and under the extended extended GMPP the wobble has gotten much worse and was causing a squeak. the labor time is 7.1 hrs the part is $240 that puts the repair somewhere around $1,000... FUN HA...
My GMPP deductible is $200, less than the cost of the part so someone else can turn the wrenches for a change...
Well I very disappointed in the GM dealers in my area and will defendantly go out of state to buy any Chevy product in the future.
07-26-2009, 05:52 AM
#8
Cruising
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: PARIS PARIS ILE DE FRANCE
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi, at the beginning I tought I' ll just have to tight the loose harmonic balancer bolt, but in fact I have to change the harmonic balancer, the one on my engine as too much woble ( first time when I bought the car I remember the woble was already existing, not enough to make belts do noise, and I was surprised to see that, but without realizing these part was already worned ), at the same time I 'm gonna change accessory belt, a/c belts, belts tensionner (accessory and a/c ) and idler pulley (the one between water pump and power steering pump that cost $63 ).Thanks again for the informations !!!
10-30-2009, 02:09 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2008
Location: BURTON MI
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My crank pulley bolt backed out 1/4 ", took out both belts and the harmonic ballancer. 7 hours labor plus 205. for the ballancer. $1105.00 total, no warranty as my tuner didn't torque it properly after a cam swap. As Walt White Coupe said, it's a big job. I think for $200, thats a good way to go.
10-30-2009, 08:03 AM
#12
Safety Car
My crank pulley bolt backed out 1/4 ", took out both belts and the harmonic ballancer. 7 hours labor plus 205. for the ballancer. $1105.00 total, no warranty as my tuner didn't torque it properly after a cam swap. As Walt White Coupe said, it's a big job. I think for $200, thats a good way to go.
I just had a HB replaced at the dealer last week under '07 PT warranty. Big job. Steering rack must be removed to get at it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...tle-noise.html
10-30-2009, 11:25 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2008
Location: BURTON MI
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bob, Did he(the tuner) use a new bolt? The old one must not be reused according to the replacement procedure. New one must add threadlocker too.
I just had a HB replaced at the dealer last week under '07 PT warranty. Big job. Steering rack must be removed to get at it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...tle-noise.html
I just had a HB replaced at the dealer last week under '07 PT warranty. Big job. Steering rack must be removed to get at it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...tle-noise.html
10-30-2009, 01:19 PM
#14
my vin is01123
My crank pulley bolt backed out 1/4 ", took out both belts and the harmonic ballancer. 7 hours labor plus 205. for the ballancer. $1105.00 total, no warranty as my tuner didn't torque it properly after a cam swap. As Walt White Coupe said, it's a big job. I think for $200, thats a good way to go.
10-30-2009, 01:20 PM
#15
10-30-2009, 03:46 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2008
Location: BURTON MI
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
They should be able to measure to exposed part of the bolt to see if it's backed out. I'd think they all seat to a specific depth. Mine backed out 1/4 ", and with LTH. h/c and Corsas, I couldn't hear a squeek if I had one. Had it backed out a tad further it would have taken out the oil pump as well. (The pump was backed out a little but not enough to ruin it.) My dealer mechanic said he could loosen the bolt with a 3/4 " socket. I know it's torqued at 240+ lbs. and that won't back off with a 3/4" socket with that little room to move. Good luck and let us know how you make out. Are you in the first 11000 05's?
10-30-2009, 05:27 PM
#17
100 dollars
They should be able to measure to exposed part of the bolt to see if it's backed out. I'd think they all seat to a specific depth. Mine backed out 1/4 ", and with LTH. h/c and Corsas, I couldn't hear a squeek if I had one. Had it backed out a tad further it would have taken out the oil pump as well. (The pump was backed out a little but not enough to ruin it.) My dealer mechanic said he could loosen the bolt with a 3/4 " socket. I know it's torqued at 240+ lbs. and that won't back off with a 3/4" socket with that little room to move. Good luck and let us know how you make out. Are you in the first 11000 05's?
10-30-2009, 05:28 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
Bob, Did he(the tuner) use a new bolt? The old one must not be reused according to the replacement procedure. New one must add threadlocker too.
I just had a HB replaced at the dealer last week under '07 PT warranty. Big job. Steering rack must be removed to get at it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...tle-noise.html
I just had a HB replaced at the dealer last week under '07 PT warranty. Big job. Steering rack must be removed to get at it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...tle-noise.html
10-30-2009, 06:06 PM
#19
10-30-2009, 07:59 PM
#20
Race Director
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Phila Suburbs 2023 C8 & 2013 650ix
Posts: 10,414
Received 2,223 Likes
on
1,140 Posts