Nitrous ???s
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Nitrous ???s
I have a c6 manual with dynatech headers and intake.. Just hooked up a 125 shot dry kit.. Here's the problem im having, firstly, i live in chicago and it was about 50's today.. When I press the nos button it kicks in then boggs.. it feels like a fuel cut.. I have 34 valve/nozzle in the fuel side and a 54 in the intake side.. What I realized that since its so cold the bottle pressure is only at 600psi and I dont have a bottle warmer.. Could I be feeding the car too much fuel and not enough nos since the pressure is low therefore im choking the engine with too much fuel?
#2
what brand is the kit? if you have a nitrous and fue lsolenoid then that would be a wet kit. the jetting seems to be on the rich side to start with and having the bottle pressure down at 600 would definately make it very rich.
#3
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St. Jude Donor '09-'11
Assuming you really have a wet kit, yep, waay too rich. Go to the website for the kit you bought and check the jet sizes again. Be sure to look at the GM tables, not the Ford, as the fuel pressures are different.
Also, do you have an RPM window switch? If not, you need one. Set the lower limit at no less than 3000 rpm and the upper limit at 6000 and try it.
You also need a bottle heater.
Joe (I've run 10s in a 99 Mustang with a nitrous kit)
Also, do you have an RPM window switch? If not, you need one. Set the lower limit at no less than 3000 rpm and the upper limit at 6000 and try it.
You also need a bottle heater.
Joe (I've run 10s in a 99 Mustang with a nitrous kit)
#4
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Is it a wet or dry kit? Dry kits don't have fuel solonoids. Did you purge before you sprayed if you didn't your car will have a slight bog as it runs rich for a second. If your kit is a wet kit then running at 600 psi will cause you to run very rich.
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so here's more info.. I really dont know the name of the kit.. As funny as that sounds.. Friend bought a new kit, opened it and never installed it then game it to me.. Now you guys are saying it is a wet kit however i am nearly sure its a dry kit because i am spraying through the intake into the throttle body.. Now I say i have two nozzles, or whatever they are called, because I have a 34 in the fuel bridge coming from the fuel line (fpr) and a 54 in the sprayer which is inserted in the intake..
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Assuming you really have a wet kit, yep, waay too rich. Go to the website for the kit you bought and check the jet sizes again. Be sure to look at the GM tables, not the Ford, as the fuel pressures are different.
Also, do you have an RPM window switch? If not, you need one. Set the lower limit at no less than 3000 rpm and the upper limit at 6000 and try it.
You also need a bottle heater.
Joe (I've run 10s in a 99 Mustang with a nitrous kit)
Also, do you have an RPM window switch? If not, you need one. Set the lower limit at no less than 3000 rpm and the upper limit at 6000 and try it.
You also need a bottle heater.
Joe (I've run 10s in a 99 Mustang with a nitrous kit)
Your saying i should run a rpm window but my switch is not on the pedal it is manual button i push to activate therefore i dont think i need the rpm window because i'll simply push the button at 3000rpm but the bottle warmer i do need..
#7
Tech Contributor
Are you sprying the fuel/nitrous into the MAF? Is the nozzle before the MAF?
I think people take nitrous intalls too lightly. You need to tune these things and at a minumum you should be checking on a wideband what the A/F ratio is on a small shot before you up the jets. Its not a DIY install without tuning.
Go to http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...trous+backfire so you know what to expect from not tuning a nitrous install.
I think people take nitrous intalls too lightly. You need to tune these things and at a minumum you should be checking on a wideband what the A/F ratio is on a small shot before you up the jets. Its not a DIY install without tuning.
Go to http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...trous+backfire so you know what to expect from not tuning a nitrous install.
#8
Tech Contributor
You cant judge it like that. You need a window switch especially at the top end. When the car hits the high rpm it cuts the fuel at the rev limiter and your finger isnt going to react fast enough.
#9
ZO6 Owner
600 psi bottle pressure is causing you to run pig rich and is causing the bog. Be careful with that because you can cause a backfire being that rich. Get your bottle pressure up to 900 psi via a bottle warmer or Nano system and it should feel a lot better.
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St. Jude Donor '09-'11
tractionlessvette--You need to post a photo of the nozzle and the fuel lines so that we can tell exactly what you have. You are going to need to add a few more things to your car before you run the nitrous system again. We just don't want you to blow up your motor, that's all.
Done right, nitrous is a lot of fun on a drag strip. But it is serious business and has to be done right. I made over a 100 passes on a drag strip without any problems....because I paid attention to the advice I got when I was a nitrous newbie.
Done right, nitrous is a lot of fun on a drag strip. But it is serious business and has to be done right. I made over a 100 passes on a drag strip without any problems....because I paid attention to the advice I got when I was a nitrous newbie.
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Are you sprying the fuel/nitrous into the MAF? Is the nozzle before the MAF?
I think people take nitrous intalls too lightly. You need to tune these things and at a minumum you should be checking on a wideband what the A/F ratio is on a small shot before you up the jets. Its not a DIY install without tuning.
Go to http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...trous+backfire so you know what to expect from not tuning a nitrous install.
I think people take nitrous intalls too lightly. You need to tune these things and at a minumum you should be checking on a wideband what the A/F ratio is on a small shot before you up the jets. Its not a DIY install without tuning.
Go to http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...trous+backfire so you know what to expect from not tuning a nitrous install.
yup, spraying into the varamam intake right before the maf and throttle body..
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tractionlessvette--You need to post a photo of the nozzle and the fuel lines so that we can tell exactly what you have. You are going to need to add a few more things to your car before you run the nitrous system again. We just don't want you to blow up your motor, that's all.
Done right, nitrous is a lot of fun on a drag strip. But it is serious business and has to be done right. I made over a 100 passes on a drag strip without any problems....because I paid attention to the advice I got when I was a nitrous newbie.
Done right, nitrous is a lot of fun on a drag strip. But it is serious business and has to be done right. I made over a 100 passes on a drag strip without any problems....because I paid attention to the advice I got when I was a nitrous newbie.
Will def do that.. I will take some pics so that you guys can see.. I'm obviously new to nos and def dont want to blow my engine.. thanks for all the help guys..
#13
Tech Contributor
So you are adding fuel with a solenoid, adding fuel with MAF metering, and running even richer due to low bottle pressure. You are going to damage the car doing this yourself. Nitrous isnt a DIY project unless you can tune and know what you're doing.
#14
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Just a suggestion, but you really need to get a handle on this set up and how to do it right. With all due respect it sounds like you don't really know how to set up or operate the system properly. You need to educate your self and get some advice from an expert on nitrous or you may end up with a grenade under the hood.
It sounds to me like you have a wet kit spraying before the MAF. You spray before the MAF with a dry kit but after the MAF with a wet kit. Yet you definatly should have a window switch.
You need a bottle heater and you neet to always spray at the same bottle pressure recomended for the jetting you use. If the bottle pressure goes up it will be lean and if the bottle pressure goes down it will be rich with a wet kit. You have to have consistent bottle pressure to keep the AFR where you want it to make it run well and to keep from hurting the motor.
Dave at Nitrous Outlet is very helpful and knows nitrous inside and out.
It sounds to me like you have a wet kit spraying before the MAF. You spray before the MAF with a dry kit but after the MAF with a wet kit. Yet you definatly should have a window switch.
You need a bottle heater and you neet to always spray at the same bottle pressure recomended for the jetting you use. If the bottle pressure goes up it will be lean and if the bottle pressure goes down it will be rich with a wet kit. You have to have consistent bottle pressure to keep the AFR where you want it to make it run well and to keep from hurting the motor.
Dave at Nitrous Outlet is very helpful and knows nitrous inside and out.
#15
Melting Slicks
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#17
What he has IS a dry kit. He is refering to the Bypass tee (http://drynitrous.com/4.html) and wants to know where to hook it up.
Seems like you guys dont know what a dry kit and what a wet kit is. Its not spraying fuel with nitrous in the intake mani. It spraying into the air box.
Seems like you guys dont know what a dry kit and what a wet kit is. Its not spraying fuel with nitrous in the intake mani. It spraying into the air box.
Last edited by AWDboostin; 03-10-2009 at 06:14 PM.
#18
What he has IS a dry kit. He is refering to the Bypass tee (http://drynitrous.com/4.html) and wants to know where to hook it up.
Seems like you guys dont know what a dry kit and what a wet kit is. Its not mixing fuel with the nitrous in the intake mani. It spraying into the air box.
Seems like you guys dont know what a dry kit and what a wet kit is. Its not mixing fuel with the nitrous in the intake mani. It spraying into the air box.
#19
this guy comes on here and you guys are just bashing him....he said its a dry kit and it is. So how about answering his question and giving him some advice instead of insisting it a wet kit when in fact it is not