LSCHLEM

IM trying to figure out if the lifters need to come out for a cam install ?
It looks like the heads would need to be removed to get them out. The picture of the top of the head where the springs & pushrods are shown
dpoesnt look like you can pull the lifter packs up & out thru the head. If
thats not the case how can you get the cam out with the heads on ?

BLKTA

For the LS series motors, you need to remove the heads to access or remove the lifters. The lifters are held in place with plastic trays. Before removing the cam, you rotate it a couple of times which pushes the lifters up into the trays which allows the cam to be removed.

johnodrake

And, if you do it right, they don't fall down, causing you to have to remove the head

07MontRedcp

I had the same question when the cam was being replaced as part of my APS TT install. As John and Gino said, a couple of 360* turns and pull it out. Have the other cam at hand to slide back in. I saw first hand that it works.

BJK

Walt White Coupe

I was always under the impression that if you change a cam, you better change the lifters since they wear in together.

thesubfloor

No, they don't need to be removed for a cam install but they do need to be held up to keep them from falling into the engine.

The trick I used when I did my cam install (and I borrowed this technique from somebody else) was to use 16 telescopic pen-magnets inserted into the engine (in place of the pushrods) which are then in turn held in place with clothespins.

The magnets keep the lifters from falling while the cam is out and the clothespins keep the magnets from falling.

Christopher

Frans96ss

They do not need to come out and i do not change them unless the person gets heads installed also.

LSCHLEM

Wow if that isnt a novel idea. " Pen magnets & Clothespins". It does sound like it will do the trick with a little extra insurance. I guess
you can tell Im old school like 283 / 327. I do wonder now if the
lifter guides would prevent them from falling down into the engine.
If one would slip down during install maybe all you would need to do is have a teflon dower to go in from the front and push it back up ?
Thanks guys I got the central idea. Would'nt mind hearing from SPIN on this one as I never seen the subject mentioned on the forum.

glennhl

Three methods without removing the heads:

1) Russian Roulette: Spin the cam, swap it out and hope that a lifter doesn't fall.

2) Pen magnets: This works well except a few guys have lost the magnet tip into the motor causing all kinds of problems. Most guys epoxy the magnets before they use them.

3) Use two 5/16" diameter steel rods and after you spin the cam, you slide the rods into a couple of holes in the front of the engine. The rods keep the lifters from falling. (This is what I did, I had to grind a flat down the side of the 5/16" rods to get one to slip in).

Good luck.

oneblackvette

Number three 3) has worked for me at least 3 times

ben dover

And once for me.

MrDrezzUp

The lifters could technically fall and I would not recommend the Russian roulette method, as simple solutions exist to negate the need to take a risk.

There is actually a lifter tool you can buy/rent that is used to hold the lifters up. It is basically a metal rod with a bit of material on one end you can grip. I rented it and for whatever reason it became quite stuck in the engine (I am not sure why). I was quite nervous when applying a bit of strength to pull it out.

I have heard mention of wooden dowels (cut to suitable length) as working very well. This sounds like the perfect solution as it would hold the lifters up, be easy to source (any hardware store), very inexpensive (few dollars), wood on aluminum is safe, and I can't imagine it getting stuck like the metal one I used did. I would lube it up with engine oil just to make it that much easier to use. I wish I could remember what diameter was recommended because apparently it was a perfect fit. 5/8ths perhaps?

If you are swapping the cam I have the following thoughts/suggestions:

- If there is any chance of you going in there again, opt for a reusable ARP pulley bolt.
- If there is any chance you might go FI one day, leave the pulley stock, and pin it.
- If you won't be going FI, replace the stock pulley with an underdrive pulley.
- Spend the time to review the procedure for installing the oil pump o-ring. Many a person has had to tear down the engine again to replace that o-ring. There is a some really good pics and instructions on LS1tech about the o-ring.
- If you are swapping the cam, a stronger timing chain (e.g. Katech) would be a great idea.
- Take a quick look (or even better a quick picture) at how the power steering pump is hooked up before you take it off. I.e. where the lines go near the the steering column.
- A super short 18 mm wrench (I think it is 18 mm?) will make one of the steering pump fluid lines, easier to remove.
- The steering rack may be a bit fussy to dislodge and put back in or it may not be. Be patient if it is being fussy.

If you have any questions during the work, there is many people on this forum who would be more than happy (me included) to pass along their cell phone number so that you could call at any time and get a question answered.


Jackson

overrev64

That is only true with flat tappet cams (hydraulic or solid). Roller type lifters can be used with any cam.

Ginny C6

And now once for me tonight I found the 1/4 in dowel worked better than the 5/16.

dgrant3830

I wonder if a gun cleaning rod would work to hold up the lifters? They are certainly cheap and have a handle.

timd38

I think that out sourcing the job is option #4.

I like option #4.

LSCHLEM

WOW that was some time ago. It seems to Me changing out the Heads is
easier than changing out the Cam. There is so much stuff to come off. I even thought I would have to open the A/C Lines but as it turned out that
was not necessary. Glad I got the Pulley Pinned as at that time many were saying thats only for supercharged Engines. NOT SO.

carlrx7

thread from the dead, i went to lowes and got some dowel rods, cost me less than a dollar, spun the camshaft a couple times, slid in the rods, cam shaft out, cam shaft in. walla

Ginny C6

I found this thread by doing a search prior to installing my cam. I was really nervous last night while doing it, afraid a lifter would drop. Now, if someone could remind me of why I'm doing this instead of paying someone else

KOTYKB

Question since I've never torn an engine apart. If you spin the camshaft a few times it will allow you to insert the rod all the way in correct? Once you install the new cam and pull the rod out what makes the lifters go back down? It may sounds like a dumb question but I'm trying to understand this crucial step.