BigMay60

Just finished installing a Comp XER273 (224 230) Cam this weekend + Comp 921 Valve Springs. This my first engine evasive upgrade. It took about 40 hours, but it was my first time and I was very careful. I expect it would take 20-30 if I did it again. It was really a simple job, but you have to be careful on a few things (cam swap, timing, valves, exc...). I have attached some pictures below.

I will be taking it to LG Motorsports on Friday for the tune. Those guys do a really awesome job!


And so it starts...LS2!


Removal of VaraRam Intake


Good view of the LG Longtube Headers. These are paired with some Corsa Sports.


Car on jackstands


Removal of cooling fan


A steering rack end link...the rack removal was a bitch. The installation was MUCH easier.


Timing Cover...almost there!


Cam Gear...almost there!


Removal of stock cam


Installation of new cam (Comp XER273)


Alomst installed. It was tough to get it over that last bearing. The use of the water pump bolts in the cam retainer holes was a must.


The underdrive pulley was a bitch to take off. Followed proper installation (240 lb/ft installation pass with old bolt, 37 lb/ft 2nd pass, 140 degrees final pass)


Changing valve springs (Comp 921)


Good view of new springs


JOB COMPLETE...it is such a great feeling when it fired right up without any problems.


CHEERS!

If any of you guys have any questions about this, PM me. Thanks!

Scott

Braciole

Congrats!!!
Now you guys can come do mine!!!!
Ill pay you and supply all the beer pizza and philly cheesesteaks Mike

DONALD HALL

Good job, now tell me where did you get that trick spring compressor, I have been looking all over for one.

ProgGod

Good question!

glenB

From thunderracing $130.




The Crane spring tool can do two springs simultaneously





From jegs $123.

5 Liter Eater

Here is a bit of advice. Always always always change out the oil pump pickup o-ring and be uber careful that you don't pinch it. Make sure you put it on the pickup and not inside the pump, that is a sure fire way to cut the o-ring. The symptom of a cut o-ring is ticking coming from #7 because air gets into the pump and aerates the oil preventing the #7 lifter(s) from pumping up as they are the first to receive the oil.

Another bit of advice is to replace the front seal. I'm now removing everything for the (first=cam swap, second=o-ring) third time to fix a leak which appears to be coming from the front seal...

I used the "Tim's Valvespring Tool" that can be ordered from LS1Tech.com as well as Tim's tool to send compressed air into the cylinders to keep the valves up when changing the springs. Both tools are pretty low tech, certainly not as fancy as the Thunder Racing bollet piece, but they do the job well and are budget priced.

Scott - Did you remove the PS pump in order to disconnect the PS rack lines?

BigMay60

5 Liter - I did remove the steering pump. I could not reach the SS lines on the steering rack GB with the pulley in the way.

I did not touch the oil pump. Why do you recommend changing the o-ring? Also, I throughly inspected the front seal and found no damage or indications of wear, so i reused.

Thanks for the advice. I will keep in mind the next time I change oil pump.

NEV3R L8

You are my hero. I don't think I could ever do that on my own.

Unless...are you located in the SWFL, JK you did a great job there.

glennhl

Did you use the Russian Roullette method for holding the lifters up when you pulled out the old bump stick? (i.e. spun the old cam then just pulled it out?) I used 5/16" rods that you insert into a couple of holes under the timing cover.

I do like that fancy spring tool, I was cheap and used a "Larry" tool off of LS1Tech.com. I also used top dead center method to hold the valves up, it appears you used compressed air which works much better!

Excellent job!

Nightstalker Medic

That's the tool from Crane, I just purchased for my spring change out. Was told by a forum sponsor that it was a great tool to have.

BigMay60

Glen - I used 5/16" rods to hold up the lifters, although after seeing how tight they held, I would be confident that the "Russian Roullette" method would have worked just fine.

Nightstalker Medic

How did you keep the tappets from falling down into the motor, once you pulled the cam out?

5 Liter Eater

Thats what I did. Man what a rush! Luckily none of them fell.

5 Liter Eater

Yea, I see that now, sorry there were some pics not showing up when I was viewing the thread at work.

I had to remove the pump because I could not see the timing dot on the crank sprocket. Here's why I say to change it out and be super careful putting the pickup back on: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1991993

I didn't see anything wrong with my front seal either. I'm halfway through tearing it down again to inspect it. Hopefully it's apparent that it is the cause.

Anyway, beauty job!

racerx8

Good job, Scott. very gratifying when you do it yourself and it WORKS ! Congrats
oh yeah, btw it's invasive, but now you'll be evasive and fast.

ProgGod

Seals are so cheap, and its such a bitch to get to that part to replace them. Its defintely worth replacing them on a cam job.

Gotcha

Nice work

I always take the hood off for a cam swap (scribe around the hinges first to get it right back where it was). Do most of you guys leave it on?