Ported Intake Installation Help
01-05-2008, 05:55 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Ported Intake Installation Help
I will be getting my Ported Intake Manifold from VMax Motorsports in and looking for any tips, hints or cautions when doing the change.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
01-05-2008, 10:28 PM
#2
Pro
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: Tampa Fl/Afghanistan
Posts: 641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1) The back two (near the firewall) bolts are slightly under the cowl. As such, they are tricky to keep in the up position when removing the intake. After I loosened them, I used some masking tape to keep them "lifted", as they will continually keep getting caught on the block.
2) Be gentle removing all the plastic emissions hoses. There are white clips on the end that simply get slid to the right, thereby allowing easy removal. Prying on these or pulling to hard will result in breakage.
3) Always a good idea to use masking tape and label each connection, simplifying resinstallation. I also took some pix as my memory fades at times.
4) Prior to removal, ensure all the dirt/grime is cleaned up. Will prevent this muck from falling into the ports. Also, when I had everything removed, I took out the Shop Vac and further cleaned up the junk. You may also consider covering the head ports with a towel or duct tape. Dropping somthing down there would suck.
5) I re-used the stock gaskets and coated all bolts with anti-seize. Make sure all the fuel injector o-rings come out with injectors. I also coated them with a dab of grease when reinserting in the new intake.
6) Invest in a quick disconnect fuel line tool. About $7. Makes life easy.
7) Lastly, the hardest part for me, was removing the power brake booster line at the rear of the intake. Also, on the rear of the block is the oil pressure sensor, thereby complicating this somewhat. Just use care and carefully unclip the booster line hose clip. You may find it easiest to unclip the sensor clip too.
good luck and enjoy.
2) Be gentle removing all the plastic emissions hoses. There are white clips on the end that simply get slid to the right, thereby allowing easy removal. Prying on these or pulling to hard will result in breakage.
3) Always a good idea to use masking tape and label each connection, simplifying resinstallation. I also took some pix as my memory fades at times.
4) Prior to removal, ensure all the dirt/grime is cleaned up. Will prevent this muck from falling into the ports. Also, when I had everything removed, I took out the Shop Vac and further cleaned up the junk. You may also consider covering the head ports with a towel or duct tape. Dropping somthing down there would suck.
5) I re-used the stock gaskets and coated all bolts with anti-seize. Make sure all the fuel injector o-rings come out with injectors. I also coated them with a dab of grease when reinserting in the new intake.
6) Invest in a quick disconnect fuel line tool. About $7. Makes life easy.
7) Lastly, the hardest part for me, was removing the power brake booster line at the rear of the intake. Also, on the rear of the block is the oil pressure sensor, thereby complicating this somewhat. Just use care and carefully unclip the booster line hose clip. You may find it easiest to unclip the sensor clip too.
good luck and enjoy.
Last edited by huskeric; 01-05-2008 at 10:31 PM. Reason: update item 7
01-05-2008, 10:45 PM
#3
Drifting
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Bay Area Ca.
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1) The back two (near the firewall) bolts are slightly under the cowl. As such, they are tricky to keep in the up position when removing the intake. After I loosened them, I used some masking tape to keep them "lifted", as they will continually keep getting caught on the block.
2) Be gentle removing all the plastic emissions hoses. There are white clips on the end that simply get slid to the right, thereby allowing easy removal. Prying on these or pulling to hard will result in breakage.
3) Always a good idea to use masking tape and label each connection, simplifying resinstallation. I also took some pix as my memory fades at times.
4) Prior to removal, ensure all the dirt/grime is cleaned up. Will prevent this muck from falling into the ports. Also, when I had everything removed, I took out the Shop Vac and further cleaned up the junk. You may also consider covering the head ports with a towel or duct tape. Dropping somthing down there would suck.
5) I re-used the stock gaskets and coated all bolts with anti-seize. Make sure all the fuel injector o-rings come out with injectors. I also coated them with a dab of grease when reinserting in the new intake.
6) Invest in a quick disconnect fuel line tool. About $7. Makes life easy.
7) Lastly, the hardest part for me, was removing the power brake booster line at the rear of the intake. Also, on the rear of the block is the oil pressure sensor, thereby complicating this somewhat. Just use care and carefully unclip the booster line hose clip. You may find it easiest to unclip the sensor clip too.
good luck and enjoy.
2) Be gentle removing all the plastic emissions hoses. There are white clips on the end that simply get slid to the right, thereby allowing easy removal. Prying on these or pulling to hard will result in breakage.
3) Always a good idea to use masking tape and label each connection, simplifying resinstallation. I also took some pix as my memory fades at times.
4) Prior to removal, ensure all the dirt/grime is cleaned up. Will prevent this muck from falling into the ports. Also, when I had everything removed, I took out the Shop Vac and further cleaned up the junk. You may also consider covering the head ports with a towel or duct tape. Dropping somthing down there would suck.
5) I re-used the stock gaskets and coated all bolts with anti-seize. Make sure all the fuel injector o-rings come out with injectors. I also coated them with a dab of grease when reinserting in the new intake.
6) Invest in a quick disconnect fuel line tool. About $7. Makes life easy.
7) Lastly, the hardest part for me, was removing the power brake booster line at the rear of the intake. Also, on the rear of the block is the oil pressure sensor, thereby complicating this somewhat. Just use care and carefully unclip the booster line hose clip. You may find it easiest to unclip the sensor clip too.
good luck and enjoy.
Wow now that is what I call all very helpful points of interest. I think I'll save this to file.
01-06-2008, 12:40 AM
#4
Tech Contributor
There's some more tips.
1. You don't need to unhook the fuel lines. Just remove the wires from the injectors, take out the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rails and remove the four back intake bolts (they can't come out until you remove the intake), pop the fuel injectors out and flip the fuel rail with the injectors attached back onto the windshield (after you put down a pad of some sort).
2. Don't bother taking the vacuum line off the booster. You can take it off the back of the manifold after the bolts are all out by moving the manifold forward. The LS2 doesn't have another small line to worry about like the LS1/6 did.
3. When reinstalling, be sure and put the back 4 bolts (and the fuel rail brackets) on the manifold before you set the manifold.
4. Put the fuel rails back in the manifold BEFORE you torque the manifold. That was my mistake. Once the back 4 bolts are tight, you can't put the fuel rails in because the bracket helps hold the fuel rails down.
Here's my write up with some more information.
Ported Intake and Vararam Install Notes and Track Results:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1434941
1. You don't need to unhook the fuel lines. Just remove the wires from the injectors, take out the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rails and remove the four back intake bolts (they can't come out until you remove the intake), pop the fuel injectors out and flip the fuel rail with the injectors attached back onto the windshield (after you put down a pad of some sort).
2. Don't bother taking the vacuum line off the booster. You can take it off the back of the manifold after the bolts are all out by moving the manifold forward. The LS2 doesn't have another small line to worry about like the LS1/6 did.
3. When reinstalling, be sure and put the back 4 bolts (and the fuel rail brackets) on the manifold before you set the manifold.
4. Put the fuel rails back in the manifold BEFORE you torque the manifold. That was my mistake. Once the back 4 bolts are tight, you can't put the fuel rails in because the bracket helps hold the fuel rails down.
Here's my write up with some more information.
Ported Intake and Vararam Install Notes and Track Results:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1434941
01-06-2008, 11:26 AM
#5
Pro
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: Arvada CO
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There's some more tips.
3. When reinstalling, be sure and put the back 4 bolts (and the fuel rail brackets) on the manifold before you set the manifold.
4. Put the fuel rails back in the manifold BEFORE you torque the manifold. That was my mistake. Once the back 4 bolts are tight, you can't put the fuel rails in because the bracket helps hold the fuel rails down.
Here's my write up with some more information.
Ported Intake and Vararam Install Notes and Track Results:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1434941
3. When reinstalling, be sure and put the back 4 bolts (and the fuel rail brackets) on the manifold before you set the manifold.
4. Put the fuel rails back in the manifold BEFORE you torque the manifold. That was my mistake. Once the back 4 bolts are tight, you can't put the fuel rails in because the bracket helps hold the fuel rails down.
Here's my write up with some more information.
Ported Intake and Vararam Install Notes and Track Results:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1434941
The good news is, this post is outstanding. Thanks. The bad news, I didn't read it before my FAST intake install yesterday. I forgot to install the rear fuel rail brackets and torqued down the manifold yesterdy.
All I can say is removing the manifold a second time (to install the fuel rail brackets) should go a lot faster!
01-06-2008, 02:29 PM
#6
Race Director
All of the above, and read this thread, it's important info on tightening the intake bolts.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ntake+manifold
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ntake+manifold
01-07-2008, 02:47 PM
#7
Safety Car
Thread Starter
What can I say but you guys are the best, just makes me a helluva lot more confident in doing the change.
Thanks for all the great tips, by the responses this thread got it should help a lot of people who are thinking or going to do an intake manifold change.
CF IS THE BEST
Thanks for all the great tips, by the responses this thread got it should help a lot of people who are thinking or going to do an intake manifold change.
CF IS THE BEST
01-10-2008, 01:49 AM
#8
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I just did the install this afternoon after work, total time about 2 hours, just took my time. The reward is outstanding performance, what a blast.
I want to thank Huskeric and Joe G for the tips and taking the time to post on the thread. The tips were great and made the work much easier. So big MAHALO guys.
The performance just gets better and better with each bolt on.
For those who want more power and way better throttle response then do a ported intake and throttle body change. It is worth every cent.
Now to enjoy this mod before doing the cam and kit change.
I want to thank Huskeric and Joe G for the tips and taking the time to post on the thread. The tips were great and made the work much easier. So big MAHALO guys.
The performance just gets better and better with each bolt on.
For those who want more power and way better throttle response then do a ported intake and throttle body change. It is worth every cent.
Now to enjoy this mod before doing the cam and kit change.
01-10-2008, 09:15 AM
#9
Pro
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: Arvada CO
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I finished my FAST intake manifold install yesterday myself. Since the roads have been snowy, icey, and sanded, I decided to stretch my install out over the course of a week. I enjoyed it. I pushed the start button yesterday and the car fired right up. If the snow melts in my driveway I will take it on a test drive. Maybe for the next big snow I will plan on sending the throttle body in for porting and finish up with a tune.
