Cool car
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Cool car
Finally took Rick's (Synergy) advice and swapped out my 5W30 for 10W and put in the 160 TStat. Also added some WaterWetter and dropped the coolant mix to a little less than 50/50 (in favor of water). Although it was ~5-10 degrees cooler this AM than past months, I saw nothing over 170 degrees on the coolant (had been ~200 no matter what the ambient) and nothing over 198 oil temp. Oil temps had me bothered for some time . . . I've been seeing in the mid 220s even in cooler air, and high 230s into the 240s in an afternoon commute on a 90 degree day. Comparisons are all highway, overdrive cruising after ~40 mi. So, which change made the diff? Or is it mother nature? I was too impatient to try one thing at a time, sorry. I'm curious how this will change with an afternoon commute.
FM
FM
#2
Race Director
Finally took Rick's (Synergy) advice and swapped out my 5W30 for 10W and put in the 160 TStat. Also added some WaterWetter and dropped the coolant mix to a little less than 50/50 (in favor of water). Although it was ~5-10 degrees cooler this AM than past months, I saw nothing over 170 degrees on the coolant (had been ~200 no matter what the ambient) and nothing over 198 oil temp. Oil temps had me bothered for some time . . . I've been seeing in the mid 220s even in cooler air, and high 230s into the 240s in an afternoon commute on a 90 degree day. Comparisons are all highway, overdrive cruising after ~40 mi. So, which change made the diff? Or is it mother nature? I was too impatient to try one thing at a time, sorry. I'm curious how this will change with an afternoon commute.
FM
FM
#7
Le Mans Master
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nothing over 198 oil temp
You may want the engine oil temp to get over 212 degrees F, to boil off any water that occurs from the combustion of the hydocarbon fuel. Water in the crankcase will do you no good.
The powertrain guys spec'ed a 195 degree F thermostat for a reason.
The powertrain guys spec'ed a 195 degree F thermostat for a reason.
Last edited by calemasters; 09-17-2007 at 11:42 PM.
#9
What little condensation inside the engine will evaporate anytime the oil temp exceeds the ambient temp. The hotter the oil, the faster it will evaporate. Period. 10W40 synthetic (Mobil, Royal P., whatever) will not hurt engine. Mobil 1 is actually a relatively poor performing lubricant, compared to whats avilable today. Follow the money, and you'll discover why GM recommends it in the Vette. Mobie pays GM to put it in there, figuring they'll sell more from the Lemmings Effect! GM recommends 5W30 for fuel efficiency and emissions. 10w40 will protect the moving parts better. In hot weather, I use 20W50.
#10
What little condensation inside the engine will evaporate anytime the oil temp exceeds the ambient temp. The hotter the oil, the faster it will evaporate. Period. 10W40 synthetic (Mobil, Royal P., whatever) will not hurt engine. Mobil 1 is actually a relatively poor performing lubricant, compared to whats avilable today. Follow the money, and you'll discover why GM recommends it in the Vette. Mobie pays GM to put it in there, figuring they'll sell more from the Lemmings Effect! GM recommends 5W30 for fuel efficiency and emissions. 10w40 will protect the moving parts better. In hot weather, I use 20W50.
#13
CF Senior Member
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With my engine I'll run 15W50 Mobil 1 only when running on a road course (and it's hot here in Arizona to begin with). I change back to 5W30 for 'normal' driving.
I know Water Wetter is sometimes used by guys running on the track especially if their car has any risk of over-heating. They'd rather have Water Wetter on the track than anti-freeze....regular coolant on the asphalt is virtually invisible and slicker than oil...definitely dangerous.
Perhaps GM does recommend Mobil 1 for monetary consideration. Irregardless, many professional racing teams (whether they're sponsored by Mobil 1 or not) actually use the product with seemingly good results.
I know Water Wetter is sometimes used by guys running on the track especially if their car has any risk of over-heating. They'd rather have Water Wetter on the track than anti-freeze....regular coolant on the asphalt is virtually invisible and slicker than oil...definitely dangerous.
Perhaps GM does recommend Mobil 1 for monetary consideration. Irregardless, many professional racing teams (whether they're sponsored by Mobil 1 or not) actually use the product with seemingly good results.
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for the comments. I moved to 10W because my tuner recommended it for all my vehicles in this area. From what I read on the subject (admittedly all from the World Wide Sewer . . . er, Web), the viscosity index is increased mainly through the use of additives, including polymers. The greater the diff between cold and warm #'s, the more additives. Those additives apparently tend to break down more severely than the oil itself under mechanical shear stresses, and can form some nasty residues. Apparently, the narrower the range you can tolerate, the less additives you'll need, regardless of the running temp viscosity you're trying to achieve. Of course, I'm an EE trying to be a chemist, so who knows. But given where I live, my car is not likely to ever see startup temps below 50F. So, I'm betting I can tolerate a higher "winter" viscosity.
As for the TSTat . . . I've read with interest and amusement the TStat war threads. I know next to nothing myself on the subject, and certainly agree that GM knows what it is doing. But I'm equally sure when you build 40K+ of something this complex and expensive that you'll have to warrant for some time, you do so conservatively with a lean towards the more extreme environmental conditions. My only real defense, again, is my tuner recommended it.
BTW, on my sprint home yesterday (ambient ranged from mid 70's to mid 80's) I never saw oil temps above the low 220s and coolant never got above 200 . . . does appear much less stable as I was seeing it bounce between 170 and mid 190s under what I thought was basically the same conditions.
FM
As for the TSTat . . . I've read with interest and amusement the TStat war threads. I know next to nothing myself on the subject, and certainly agree that GM knows what it is doing. But I'm equally sure when you build 40K+ of something this complex and expensive that you'll have to warrant for some time, you do so conservatively with a lean towards the more extreme environmental conditions. My only real defense, again, is my tuner recommended it.
BTW, on my sprint home yesterday (ambient ranged from mid 70's to mid 80's) I never saw oil temps above the low 220s and coolant never got above 200 . . . does appear much less stable as I was seeing it bounce between 170 and mid 190s under what I thought was basically the same conditions.
FM
#18
#19
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