2006 LS2 Mods - Missing Anything?
#1
Racer
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St. Jude Donor '11
2006 LS2 Mods - Missing Anything?
I have everything on order to support the following Mods and was wondering if I was missing any small items in the $500.00 range?
Our List:
Mild Cam with double springs and pushrods (Supplied by CAM)
Callaway Honker Cold Air Intake
Kook's 1 7/8 headers with X-Crossover, high flow cats to stock mufflers
Underdrive Pulley with belt
Tune
We are looking for my final numbers to be between 420 to 425 RWHP or an 80-85 RWHP gain. I was curious if there is anything else to consider to maybe squeeze out 10 or so more HP for a small cost?
My tuner said that the 160 degree thermostat would not do anything for me. I considered the FAST intake, but there is an issue with getting my custom fuel rail covers back on properly and that cost $1300 parts and labor. Everything is stock on my car right now, so the above mods are the only thing we have planned right now.
Our List:
Mild Cam with double springs and pushrods (Supplied by CAM)
Callaway Honker Cold Air Intake
Kook's 1 7/8 headers with X-Crossover, high flow cats to stock mufflers
Underdrive Pulley with belt
Tune
We are looking for my final numbers to be between 420 to 425 RWHP or an 80-85 RWHP gain. I was curious if there is anything else to consider to maybe squeeze out 10 or so more HP for a small cost?
My tuner said that the 160 degree thermostat would not do anything for me. I considered the FAST intake, but there is an issue with getting my custom fuel rail covers back on properly and that cost $1300 parts and labor. Everything is stock on my car right now, so the above mods are the only thing we have planned right now.
#3
I have everything on order to support the following Mods and was wondering if I was missing any small items in the $500.00 range?
Our List:
Mild Cam with double springs and pushrods (Supplied by CAM)
Callaway Honker Cold Air Intake
Kook's 1 7/8 headers with X-Crossover, high flow cats to stock mufflers
Underdrive Pulley with belt
Tune
We are looking for my final numbers to be between 420 to 425 RWHP or an 80-85 RWHP gain. I was curious if there is anything else to consider to maybe squeeze out 10 or so more HP for a small cost?
My tuner said that the 160 degree thermostat would not do anything for me. I considered the FAST intake, but there is an issue with getting my custom fuel rail covers back on properly and that cost $1300 parts and labor. Everything is stock on my car right now, so the above mods are the only thing we have planned right now.
Our List:
Mild Cam with double springs and pushrods (Supplied by CAM)
Callaway Honker Cold Air Intake
Kook's 1 7/8 headers with X-Crossover, high flow cats to stock mufflers
Underdrive Pulley with belt
Tune
We are looking for my final numbers to be between 420 to 425 RWHP or an 80-85 RWHP gain. I was curious if there is anything else to consider to maybe squeeze out 10 or so more HP for a small cost?
My tuner said that the 160 degree thermostat would not do anything for me. I considered the FAST intake, but there is an issue with getting my custom fuel rail covers back on properly and that cost $1300 parts and labor. Everything is stock on my car right now, so the above mods are the only thing we have planned right now.
#4
Burning Brakes
Those mods should meet your goals, for less than 500.00 you could also go with a ported stock manifold from www.ls2portworks.com then your engine covers will fit ok. I believe they cost about 230.00 with exchange of your stock manifold. I do disagree on not running a 160 stat. I run one and the temps stay between 178 and 182 degrees on the highway at 100+ degrees outside temp and I have never seen any temps over 200 degrees in stop and go traffic. I also have the fan engagements set for a 160 stat. Good luck with your mods.
#5
Le Mans Master
After you do your mods try installing a TB spacer, I put one on my car and felt the increase right away, although I'm not sure why that is...but it is not an expensive mod and easy to sell if you change your mind.
#7
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St. Jude Donor '11
That's some good advice. Can my tuner port my intake or does it have to be done by someone like LS2Portworks? Should I port my throttle body as well. What RWHP gain can I expect on an LS2 with headers, CAI, mild cam, UD Pulley?
Also, I am getting a Callaway Honker Cold Air Intake. Where can I buy a throttle body space that will fit this set-up. Will any TBS work on any LS2 set-up regardless on the CAI used?
Also, I am getting a Callaway Honker Cold Air Intake. Where can I buy a throttle body space that will fit this set-up. Will any TBS work on any LS2 set-up regardless on the CAI used?
#8
Mmm... I don't see how those mods will take the C6 to 425rwp (what is that in hp, about 480?). Zip's stage 4 engine performance mod package altogether claim to take it to 450hp, and it seems to be far more complete than the mods mentioned here... What am I missing?
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i would def do a TBS,160 stat, and also change out the stock mufflers...dont get a axle back system, just buy a good set of cans for maybe 5-10HP and some sound too!i did that and spent 200$
#10
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St. Jude Donor '11
I would say you will definitley pass 425rwhp with those mods....most "packages"(excluding cam/custom tune) ive seen advertised like east/westcoast vette, zip ect. including the ones you listed say roughly 75-90hp...so we'll use 80 being conservative...thats 480HP plus whatever that cam and custom tune does...hopefully 500hp...stock LS2 has a round 340rwhp...i think you will reach 425RWHP easily...
i would def do a TBS,160 stat, and also change out the stock mufflers...dont get a axle back system, just buy a good set of cans for maybe 5-10HP and some sound too!i did that and spent 200$
i would def do a TBS,160 stat, and also change out the stock mufflers...dont get a axle back system, just buy a good set of cans for maybe 5-10HP and some sound too!i did that and spent 200$
I just ordered the 160 degree Thermostat from Maryland Speed and am having it delivered directly to my tuner. Many of the tuners I have spoken with say I am not going to get past 425 RWHP (85 RWHP gain) without doing a FAST intake or heads/intake. I'm not sure if you would even think about doing heads without doing the intake too. You of course are talking major bucks when you start talking about heads. After adding heads and a manifold on top of what I already have planned, I could have paid for a supercharger. I will have $4900.00 in parts and labor with the mods listed above. My original goal was to get my 2006 LS2 up to Z06 engine performance with my first mod. (505 HP at the flywheel or 440 RWHP).You think I am there with Mild cam, Kooks 1 7/8 headers, X-crossover, high flow cats, UD Pulley, Honker CAI, 160 stat and the tune? I want to really see a difference in the performance when I pick up my car. I really do not want to put out any more big money this go around, so I started this thread to get some more small ideas to get me closer to 440 RWHP vs 425 RWHP projected
#11
Race Director
Where can I buy the Throttle Body Spacer? Not sure which one to purchase. Vararam makes one but I am not sure if it will work with my Callaway Honker CAI. Does this spacer work with all LS2's? I would like to buy that this weekend as well.
I just ordered the 160 degree Thermostat from Maryland Speed and am having it delivered directly to my tuner. Many of the tuners I have spoken with say I am not going to get past 425 RWHP (85 RWHP gain) without doing a FAST intake or heads/intake. I'm not sure if you would even think about doing heads without doing the intake too. You of course are talking major bucks when you start talking about heads. After adding heads and a manifold on top of what I already have planned, I could have paid for a supercharger. I will have $4900.00 in parts and labor with the mods listed above. My original goal was to get my 2006 LS2 up to Z06 engine performance with my first mod. (505 HP at the flywheel or 440 RWHP).You think I am there with Mild cam, Kooks 1 7/8 headers, X-crossover, high flow cats, UD Pulley, Honker CAI, 160 stat and the tune? I want to really see a difference in the performance when I pick up my car. I really do not want to put out any more big money this go around, so I started this thread to get some more small ideas to get me closer to 440 RWHP vs 425 RWHP projected
I just ordered the 160 degree Thermostat from Maryland Speed and am having it delivered directly to my tuner. Many of the tuners I have spoken with say I am not going to get past 425 RWHP (85 RWHP gain) without doing a FAST intake or heads/intake. I'm not sure if you would even think about doing heads without doing the intake too. You of course are talking major bucks when you start talking about heads. After adding heads and a manifold on top of what I already have planned, I could have paid for a supercharger. I will have $4900.00 in parts and labor with the mods listed above. My original goal was to get my 2006 LS2 up to Z06 engine performance with my first mod. (505 HP at the flywheel or 440 RWHP).You think I am there with Mild cam, Kooks 1 7/8 headers, X-crossover, high flow cats, UD Pulley, Honker CAI, 160 stat and the tune? I want to really see a difference in the performance when I pick up my car. I really do not want to put out any more big money this go around, so I started this thread to get some more small ideas to get me closer to 440 RWHP vs 425 RWHP projected
#12
Melting Slicks
I don't see any car info in your profile so I'm not sure if you're talking MN6 or A6? "Mild" cam is highly subjective around here as well. I'd guess if you're talking a 224/228 cam and a manual tranny you'd be close to 420 RWHP, maybe 410ish if the A6. I picked up 7 HP/ 11 TQ from my ported plenum from Cory, so to your original post get the ported intake and do port the throttle body, which keeps you under $500. Can't answer the spacer question.
I would urge you to not get fixated on a precise number. To me, there's no sense in thinking you'll be getting 425, and being disappointed if you get 417. Maybe another dyno will show you at 422?
If you want to consistently beat the (stock) Z06 at the dragway you're going to need to do heads IMNSHO, and you'll save money doing the heads now, but that's another subject.
This opinion is worth what you paid for it and there are a lot more experienced folks around here than I. Good luck with whatever you decide, and post up the results. Enjoy!
Oh, and DO put in the 160 therm.
I would urge you to not get fixated on a precise number. To me, there's no sense in thinking you'll be getting 425, and being disappointed if you get 417. Maybe another dyno will show you at 422?
If you want to consistently beat the (stock) Z06 at the dragway you're going to need to do heads IMNSHO, and you'll save money doing the heads now, but that's another subject.
This opinion is worth what you paid for it and there are a lot more experienced folks around here than I. Good luck with whatever you decide, and post up the results. Enjoy!
Oh, and DO put in the 160 therm.
Last edited by StarJack; 07-28-2007 at 07:32 PM.
#13
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St. Jude Donor '11
I don't see any car info in your profile so I'm not sure if you're talking MN6 or A6? "Mild" cam is highly subjective around here as well. I'd guess if you're talking a 224/228 cam and a manual tranny you'd be close to 420 RWHP, maybe 410ish if the A6. I picked up 7 HP/ 11 TQ from my ported plenum from Cory, so to your original post get the ported intake and do port the throttle body, which keeps you under $500. Can't answer the spacer question.
I would urge you to not get fixated on a precise number. To me, there's no sense in thinking you'll be getting 425, and being disappointed if you get 417. Maybe another dyno will show you at 422?
If you want to consistently beat the (stock) Z06 at the dragway you're going to need to do heads IMNSHO, and you'll save money doing the heads now, but that's another subject.
This opinion is worth what you paid for it and there are a lot more experienced folks around here than I. Good luck with whatever you decide, and post up the results. Enjoy!
Oh, and DO put in the 160 therm.
I would urge you to not get fixated on a precise number. To me, there's no sense in thinking you'll be getting 425, and being disappointed if you get 417. Maybe another dyno will show you at 422?
If you want to consistently beat the (stock) Z06 at the dragway you're going to need to do heads IMNSHO, and you'll save money doing the heads now, but that's another subject.
This opinion is worth what you paid for it and there are a lot more experienced folks around here than I. Good luck with whatever you decide, and post up the results. Enjoy!
Oh, and DO put in the 160 therm.
You're right about not becoming fixated on the numbers, but they do represent the ultimate success of the mods. I always wanted a Z06 but never could afford one. So the next best thing is to have an LS2 with mods to hopefully come close to that awesome power. The ultimate decision on being happy with the mods. will not be the numbers on the dyno. The moment of truth will be when I drive out of that shop and hit the gas and create the smoke show.
I really do not planning on dragging the car. Maybe take it to a road race course a couple of times a year. VIR is pretty close to me.
I wish I had money for heads right now. Maybe I will borrow more money and do that now too! The tuner said I would save $100 doing the heads now vs. later. I wonder how much money I could get for my used heads and intake? Any market for the stock heads and intake once they are replaced? If so what are people getting for them? That would maybe take the sting out of the cost.
I do have a 160 stat on order. So that will be installed as part of my mods. I'll be glad when my headers get here in 3 more weeks so we can get moving on the project. I will post the results once I get everthing installed and tuned.
#14
Melting Slicks
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I did it in stages 2006 M6
Money was an issue with me too.
I liked the change after CAI, headers, 160 stat.
Then I really liked the change after a 228/232 CAM, pushrods, springs etc, ported TB, UD pulley. 425 rwhp
Then 4.10s made it fun with my M6.
my 2@ Do your mods with the tune and dyno and enjoy it.
Then when you get $ do heads. perhaps 4.10's too.
Then if still not satisfied, do FI for another several grand. Talk to your tuner so what you do is FI friendly
Remember you'll get consumed like a lot of us
I liked the change after CAI, headers, 160 stat.
Then I really liked the change after a 228/232 CAM, pushrods, springs etc, ported TB, UD pulley. 425 rwhp
Then 4.10s made it fun with my M6.
my 2@ Do your mods with the tune and dyno and enjoy it.
Then when you get $ do heads. perhaps 4.10's too.
Then if still not satisfied, do FI for another several grand. Talk to your tuner so what you do is FI friendly
Remember you'll get consumed like a lot of us
#15
Melting Slicks
I really do not planning on dragging the car. Maybe take it to a road race course a couple of times a year. VIR is pretty close to me.I wish I had money for heads right now. Maybe I will borrow more money and do that now too! The tuner said I would save $100 doing the heads now vs. later. I wonder how much money I could get for my used heads and intake? Any market for the stock heads and intake once they are replaced? If so what are people getting for them? That would maybe take the sting out of the cost.
Debt sucks. If you won't/can't eliminate it, minimize it. That's some of the best advice I can give you!
You can always add more power later. Post up that dyno when you get it.
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#17
Tech Contributor
The 1 7/8 headers are a mistake with a small cam on stock displacement. In fact, testing done by LG with a set of their 1 3/4 headers along side a test prototype set of 1 7/8 LG headers led them to not produce them. The 1 7/8 failed to produce any gains anywhere in the powerband over the 1 3/4 and in fact did show a low end loss. This testing was on a 427. If it doesnt produce anything on a 7 liter then a 6 liter isnt going to have any better TQ.
If someone says different, have them produce the results to share with the rest of us. I am interested in the topic. A huge cam and huge displacement may benefit in the high rpm's for drag racing but a small cam with a street car is definitly better with 1 3/4. Cartek's findings also agreed which is a first for those two tuners to be in agreement on most anything.
If someone says different, have them produce the results to share with the rest of us. I am interested in the topic. A huge cam and huge displacement may benefit in the high rpm's for drag racing but a small cam with a street car is definitly better with 1 3/4. Cartek's findings also agreed which is a first for those two tuners to be in agreement on most anything.
#18
Tech Contributor
I dont wish to start a thermostat war thread but controling temps is a sure way to have a better street car. I speak from tuning experience with HPtuners.
#19
Melting Slicks
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The 1 7/8 headers are a mistake with a small cam on stock displacement. In fact, testing done by LG with a set of their 1 3/4 headers along side a test prototype set of 1 7/8 LG headers led them to not produce them. The 1 7/8 failed to produce any gains anywhere in the powerband over the 1 3/4 and in fact did show a low end loss. This testing was on a 427. If it doesnt produce anything on a 7 liter then a 6 liter isnt going to have any better TQ.
If someone says different, have them produce the results to share with the rest of us. I am interested in the topic. A huge cam and huge displacement may benefit in the high rpm's for drag racing but a small cam with a street car is definitly better with 1 3/4. Cartek's findings also agreed which is a first for those two tuners to be in agreement on most anything.
If someone says different, have them produce the results to share with the rest of us. I am interested in the topic. A huge cam and huge displacement may benefit in the high rpm's for drag racing but a small cam with a street car is definitly better with 1 3/4. Cartek's findings also agreed which is a first for those two tuners to be in agreement on most anything.
on both accounts and can corroberate hearing that same info.
LG has gotten over 600+rwhp from the 427 with 1 3/4" headers. No H/C, and not too many FI stock displacement LS2s, are anywhere near that.
I'll give you a list of my mods and dyno numbers on my '07 M6
Cartek 2x cam
Ported TB
Vararam
UD pulley
Kooks 1 3/4" headers w/cats
Borla Stingers
4.10s
I put down 415rwhp 380rwtq and that's thru 4.10 gears which read roughly 10+/-rwhp lower. So I think you'll be able to hit your goal of 425rwhp. You could/should add a ported intake and TBS. They don't seem like much but it all adds up and could mean the difference between 10-15rwhp over a set up without them.
As far as reaching Z06 performance level well I'm sorry to say that you'll probably still fall a little short. You might be able to close the gap on peak HP but the 427's massive torque curve will walk away from the LS2. Depending on your racing preferance(you mentioned road course) a set of gears will really help. They'll most likely make the dyno create a lower hp readout(you wont actually lose HP it just reads lower) but the car will accellerate harder and faster. However I have heard that 4.10s are too much for road race...?
I find it hard to believe the only difference between heads now or later is $100. Most of the install needs to be done again and so does the tune. I can't see any shop only charging you $100 for that.
Something to try and learn and accept early on is not getting caught up in dyno numbers. Dynos can be manipulated and numbers inflated to make the customer happy. They also don't always show the whole picture. A car making tons of HP up top(peak) while sacrificing low end will be no fun to drive on the street and may actually get beat by a car making lesser power but over a broader range. So don't necessarily shoot for a specific number. With the list you have planned your car will be a bad-*** street machine that you will have plenty of fun with. Good luck and enjoy
#20
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St. Jude Donor '11
The 1 7/8 headers are a mistake with a small cam on stock displacement. In fact, testing done by LG with a set of their 1 3/4 headers along side a test prototype set of 1 7/8 LG headers led them to not produce them. The 1 7/8 failed to produce any gains anywhere in the powerband over the 1 3/4 and in fact did show a low end loss. This testing was on a 427. If it doesnt produce anything on a 7 liter then a 6 liter isnt going to have any better TQ.
If someone says different, have them produce the results to share with the rest of us. I am interested in the topic. A huge cam and huge displacement may benefit in the high rpm's for drag racing but a small cam with a street car is definitly better with 1 3/4. Cartek's findings also agreed which is a first for those two tuners to be in agreement on most anything.
If someone says different, have them produce the results to share with the rest of us. I am interested in the topic. A huge cam and huge displacement may benefit in the high rpm's for drag racing but a small cam with a street car is definitly better with 1 3/4. Cartek's findings also agreed which is a first for those two tuners to be in agreement on most anything.
I'm probably going to hold tight on my current mods plans since it sounds like from everyone that I am gong to see a noticable difference in my car's performance. I may still consider the Ported Throttle Body and Ported Intake from Cory. That sound like an easy thing to do especially with their exchange program.
The 160 degree thermostat was ordered from Maryland Speed yesterday. It's being shipped directly to Carolina Auto Masters.
Thanks again for everyone's input. It is greatly appreciated! I will post my results once the mods are complete. There was a 3 week wait on the headers, so mid August, I will be in NC doing this