Ram street dual clutch install help
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ram street dual clutch install help
I just recently installed a Ram street dual clutch in my 2005 C6 along with a new slave and a remote bleeder. After completing everything the clutch seems great in all of my gears except reverse. It grinds when trying to get into reverse, as if the clutch is not fully released. I gravity bled my system and this does not seem to have helped. Any suggestions or thoughts? I am wondering if I need a shim between the slave cylinder. I know the Ram HD clutches come with a shim but this clutch did not.
#3
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Ranger
#5
Tech Contributor
Aintqik installed the RAM 931hd with the shim and it didnt engage fully as if the clutch pedal wasnt fully pushed down. Later the vendor told him that the shim was sold to him mistakenly and isnt for use on the C6. I installed that clutch on my car without it also and pedal operation was correct. The fact that the clutch chattered so much destroyiong my slave cylinder and forcing another clutch swap was another story.
An insufficient amount of clutch fluid in the line (air present) would have the symptoms that you have but if the clutch pedal is coming all the way to the top it is unlkely to be the problem.
Call ram and verify the appliction, not just the vendor you got the clutch from.
One thing you may try is to lossen the shifter linkage and re-tighten verifying neutral position before retightening. I had an issue with the forward gears once I installed the LS7 clutch next go around. It is more likely the issue.
An insufficient amount of clutch fluid in the line (air present) would have the symptoms that you have but if the clutch pedal is coming all the way to the top it is unlkely to be the problem.
Call ram and verify the appliction, not just the vendor you got the clutch from.
One thing you may try is to lossen the shifter linkage and re-tighten verifying neutral position before retightening. I had an issue with the forward gears once I installed the LS7 clutch next go around. It is more likely the issue.
Last edited by SpinMonster; 06-22-2007 at 03:17 PM.
#6
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Good thought on the shifter cradle, SpinMonster.
Here is a link to Rodney's procedure for cradle adjustment.
Ranger
Here is a link to Rodney's procedure for cradle adjustment.
Ranger
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the help guys. I talked to Ram and Texas-Speed(the guys at Texas Speed had more knowledge than the guy at Ram) and they both said it sounded like a hydraulic issue. They both ended up telling me to use a power bleeder and if that does not work to try the drill mod on my Master Cylinder. I think I am going to start by adjusting the shifter and power bleeding the system before drilling the Master.
#8
Tech Contributor
Texas speed was more knowledgeable on my issue but I eventually got rid of the clutch. RAM knew nothing about the C6 and said there was no difference with the C6 and C5. The two set-ups differed by the use of that spacer and hence are not the same. 2 phone calls and 2 answers; you need it and you dont need it.
If you used the spacer it would disengage further and hence no grinding. The next question for them is if they had actually installed one on a C6 and one said yes the other said no. The one that said no said the other had it installed on a trans am. With the third variable, I removed the RAM.
The drill mod would likely fix the issue.
If you used the spacer it would disengage further and hence no grinding. The next question for them is if they had actually installed one on a C6 and one said yes the other said no. The one that said no said the other had it installed on a trans am. With the third variable, I removed the RAM.
The drill mod would likely fix the issue.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I tried bleeding some more and I am still having the problem. I called Cartek and I am thinking about picking up their adjustable master cylinder rather than doing the drill mod on my stock one. Any thoughts?