Double clutching downshifts
#22
Originally Posted by haljensen
Double clutching means extra wear on the clutch disc,pressure plate and throwout bearing. Normal driving it's not needed. If you double clutch downshifts you are adding 1/3 more wear to the clutch assembly.
As to your comment about added clutch wear, I might add that the GM automatic 1st to 4th skip shift, that everyone complains about (not me), is probably is the biggest saver of clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing wear that anyone can imagine. Let everyone gag on that thought!
I don't think wear is an issue, anyone who drives on the street in city traffic, will probably put far more wear on the clutch components than several track sessions.
#23
Drifting
For street driving, just give it a blip of throttle as you pass thru the neutral gear position and you will be fine. No manual tranny problems in 40 years like that.
#26
Safety Car
Originally Posted by bt944
You can get a much smoother and quicker downshift by using the "heel and toe" method to blip the throttle. Similar to double clutching in the fact that you are matching engine revs - but you eliminate the movement of the shifter to neutral and then again to the selected gear. Instead, just blip the throttle and downshift all in one motion. With practice it becomes second nature.
Ive been doing it this way since I was 16 and got my first 72 Camaro 350 back in 76 ( Geez, Im getting old). I ran hard on many different cars through the years and never, ever had a transmission or rear end failure.
Of course I dont race anymore, but I do go fast so as not to have that disappointed look on the young girls faces when they catch me and see me driving my car instead of my son.
#27
Originally Posted by jcmoore4u
I have a C6 Z51. If I read the owner's manual correctly, it explains the transmission should not be double clutched during a downshift. In driving schools, I learned to downshift by pushing in the clutch, pulling the trans to neutral, letting out the clutch, then hitting the accelerator to help the transmission speed match the engine speed, then pushing in the clutch and downshifting.
The manual says to just downshift it. Is this correct? If so, why should it be done this way?
Thanks.
The manual says to just downshift it. Is this correct? If so, why should it be done this way?
Thanks.
It is unnecessary to double clutch when using a synchromesh gearbox, such as that found in the C6. The only exception to this is when you are stopped and the damn thing doesn't want to engage first from a rest. Then, double clutching allows the internals to get spinning properly so you can select first.
I agree with all who advocate the heel and toe method of changing down. You do not get the full benefit of a manual gearbox unless you have mastered this technique and the C6 pedals are perfectly placed for doing so.
#28
Drifting
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Originally Posted by MitchAlsup
Actually, there is! If you want the synchros to last 300K miles then double clutching takes the load off of these devices. If you don't care about 'doing' a tranny afte 150K miles or you are not going to keep the car this long, then does it not matter.
{Rev matching takes a lot of the load off of they synchros, double clutching takes the rest of the load off of them. Not that they are fragile or anything}
{Rev matching takes a lot of the load off of they synchros, double clutching takes the rest of the load off of them. Not that they are fragile or anything}
Not just extending synchro life, but also clutch life....
#29
"Your comment about double clutching on the upshift is not correct. In the upshift situation the input shaft needs to slow down somewhat in order to syncronize with the next highest gear ratio and this happens naturally as you back off the throttle and depress the clutch"
It depends on when you depress the clutch, as soon as it disengages the layshaft will remain at the higher speed. For instant let's say your engine is at 7000 in 1st which is the same as 3000 in 2nd. When you upshift, you speed up the engine to 7000 and put the clutch in, so layshaft is still at 7000. Then you let off accelerator and the engine slows down to 3000. As you push into 2nd the synchros will slow the layshaft down from 7000 to 3000. On a downshift it speeds the layshaft up from 3000 to 7000, so you see it's the same.
Unless you slow the engine down to 3000 with the clutch still engaged...which you wouldn't do...then you wouldn't need to shift.
I almost always push clutch in before coming off the gas, if you come off gas too early, you get jerky shift.
It depends on when you depress the clutch, as soon as it disengages the layshaft will remain at the higher speed. For instant let's say your engine is at 7000 in 1st which is the same as 3000 in 2nd. When you upshift, you speed up the engine to 7000 and put the clutch in, so layshaft is still at 7000. Then you let off accelerator and the engine slows down to 3000. As you push into 2nd the synchros will slow the layshaft down from 7000 to 3000. On a downshift it speeds the layshaft up from 3000 to 7000, so you see it's the same.
Unless you slow the engine down to 3000 with the clutch still engaged...which you wouldn't do...then you wouldn't need to shift.
I almost always push clutch in before coming off the gas, if you come off gas too early, you get jerky shift.
#30
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Originally Posted by haljensen
Doubleclutching made sense with the older non-synchro and crude synchro transmissions but isn't needed on the C6. You can "rev match" without double clutching but there's no need for rev matching with street driving. Maybe if you were cruising in 6th at 1000 RPM and got challenged by a ricer you would want to downshift to second and bury him but even then there's no need for double clutching, C6's have good synchros.
#31
Originally Posted by OttoNP
"Your comment about double clutching on the upshift is not correct. In the upshift situation the input shaft needs to slow down somewhat in order to syncronize with the next highest gear ratio and this happens naturally as you back off the throttle and depress the clutch"
It depends on when you depress the clutch, as soon as it disengages the layshaft will remain at the higher speed. For instant let's say your engine is at 7000 in 1st which is the same as 3000 in 2nd. When you upshift, you speed up the engine to 7000 and put the clutch in, so layshaft is still at 7000. Then you let off accelerator and the engine slows down to 3000. As you push into 2nd the synchros will slow the layshaft down from 7000 to 3000. On a downshift it speeds the layshaft up from 3000 to 7000, so you see it's the same.
Unless you slow the engine down to 3000 with the clutch still engaged...which you wouldn't do...then you wouldn't need to shift.
I almost always push clutch in before coming off the gas, if you come off gas too early, you get jerky shift.
It depends on when you depress the clutch, as soon as it disengages the layshaft will remain at the higher speed. For instant let's say your engine is at 7000 in 1st which is the same as 3000 in 2nd. When you upshift, you speed up the engine to 7000 and put the clutch in, so layshaft is still at 7000. Then you let off accelerator and the engine slows down to 3000. As you push into 2nd the synchros will slow the layshaft down from 7000 to 3000. On a downshift it speeds the layshaft up from 3000 to 7000, so you see it's the same.
Unless you slow the engine down to 3000 with the clutch still engaged...which you wouldn't do...then you wouldn't need to shift.
I almost always push clutch in before coming off the gas, if you come off gas too early, you get jerky shift.
"In the upshift situation the input shaft needs to slow down somewhat in order to syncronize with the next highest gear ratio and this happens naturally as you back off the throttle and depress the clutch." Also, here is more: "There is absolutely no need to blip in the middle of the shift" and "Blipping between upshifts only makes the mismatch worse" refering to syncronizing with the next highest gear.
In a following paragraph of the book they discuss "power shifting" and note that thsi method is not advisible for road racing. I am not sure if you are talking about "power shifting" but I just want to eliminate that possibility from the discussion.
I have driven the Formula Fords at the Skip Barber School at Road America for quite a few laps. The cars use racing gearboxes, no syncros. To downshift you must double clutch, but on upshifts I have never double clutched. The Skip Barber instructors specifically tell you not to double clutch on upshifts and not to blip the throttle either. This is also in their book on page 99. I might add that anyone going to the Skip Barber school should learn double clutching before they get there.
For many students learning how to do a double clutch downshift while heel and toeing can be a frustrating experience. A student can learn this technique himself and save a lot of expensive track time for the better stuff.
If your statement is correct, I should have experienced difficulty on my upshifts. In fact the upshift were the easy part, i.e. clutch in, come off gas for a moment, shift to next higher gear, release clutch, get on gas.
I can only relate my personal experience, and what is taught at the Barber school, and it seems to conflict with your point. So if you do not need syncros to smoothly upshift when using a non syncro racing gearbox, I contend that they likely do not come in play when upshifting on a fully synco gearbox as in a C6.
#32
There may be something specific about that kind of transmission, my comments are only on synchromesh transmissions (C6). I suppose the friction from bearings and slight contact between clutch plate, pressure plate and fly wheel would slow the input shaft when upshifting, but they would speed it up as well while downshifting. Also, perhaps the RPM difference is greater when downshifting then upshifting as well as bearing losses will only slow down input shaft.
Also, http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission1.htm, does a good job of explaining it.
Searching around the net on racing transmission has also revealed that many modern racing transmission do not have all gears engaged (non-synchromesh gearbox), but only the drive gear. This saves on loses and leads to more efficiency, but requires double clutching.
Also, http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission1.htm, does a good job of explaining it.
Searching around the net on racing transmission has also revealed that many modern racing transmission do not have all gears engaged (non-synchromesh gearbox), but only the drive gear. This saves on loses and leads to more efficiency, but requires double clutching.
#35
Safety Car
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as other have said before spring mountian beats the crap out of their cars. guess what meathod they teach....heel toe!!!! why because back when i was born they made syncros for manual tranny's eliminating the need to double shift. don't know about you but whatever spring mountian says i do!!!! but to each his own like always
#36
Safety Car
Originally Posted by AraiGP4
The driving schools teach you to double clutch because their Formula Ford/Formula Dodge open wheel single seaters come with Hewland type racing gearboxes that use straight cut gears and dog rings instead of synchros. The technique makes gear changes easier and reduces wear on their equipment. Actually, with a well maintained Hewland gearbox, you don't need to use the clutch at all to change up or down, providing you know how and when to blip the throttle while doing so.
It is unnecessary to double clutch when using a synchromesh gearbox, such as that found in the C6. The only exception to this is when you are stopped and the damn thing doesn't want to engage first from a rest. Then, double clutching allows the internals to get spinning properly so you can select first.
I agree with all who advocate the heel and toe method of changing down. You do not get the full benefit of a manual gearbox unless you have mastered this technique and the C6 pedals are perfectly placed for doing so.
It is unnecessary to double clutch when using a synchromesh gearbox, such as that found in the C6. The only exception to this is when you are stopped and the damn thing doesn't want to engage first from a rest. Then, double clutching allows the internals to get spinning properly so you can select first.
I agree with all who advocate the heel and toe method of changing down. You do not get the full benefit of a manual gearbox unless you have mastered this technique and the C6 pedals are perfectly placed for doing so.
The trucks that I drove did not have synchros and double-clutching was necessary, we used to tear up the transmissions by seeing if we could just shift from one gear to another by playing with engine speed and leaving the clutch engaged. Some guys could do it without grinding the gears. Surprisingly, those Internal Harvestors made over hundreds of thousands of miles without rebuilding (but I bet the fluid changes had a fair amount of steel coming out during draining though ).
It's not necessary to double clutch with the Corvette. You aren't saving anything including gas by bringing the the RPMs back up to speed. This car will take it and we find a way to abuse it in so many other ways.
#37
Team Owner
Double clutching should be dead. The "**** and the curious" brought the outdated idea back into the mainstream.
With today's cars, there is no way - absolutely no way - you could get a faster 1/4 mile time or better autocross time using this antiquated shift method.
With today's cars, there is no way - absolutely no way - you could get a faster 1/4 mile time or better autocross time using this antiquated shift method.
#38
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Double clutching should be dead. The "**** and the curious" brought the outdated idea back into the mainstream.
You should really learn how to express yourself and just let it go, don't sugar coat it or beat around the bush, just come out and say what you really feel. This will reduce stress and make you feel alot better.
You should really learn how to express yourself and just let it go, don't sugar coat it or beat around the bush, just come out and say what you really feel. This will reduce stress and make you feel alot better.
#39
Burning Brakes
News Flash
I can shift gears without a clutch at all. It's all in blipping the throttle. Learned the method thru years of motorcycle riding. I will say I have not done this with my new Z as the transmission shifts great and I see absolutely no need to double clutch. I was wondering why all you double clutch'ers were in my rear view mirror.
#40
Instructor
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I just floor it and go, A4 vert 05. But in my other car, I guess I use the jerk and release method or is it the rthym and pull Rosey tactic. Whatever, this board is cool but there is way too many posts on some subjects like this that. I am told the average Corvette owner is between 45 and 56, act your age boys, go get laid or better yet, heal and toe your wives or something, double clutch a stripper, but please, four pages on this topic is a little overkill. Friggin Nerds. Late, love you all.