njedwardz

so, I realize this thread will probably make me sound like a complete fool and destroy any credibility I've had on this forum. noted. worth it.

Think Ferrari. When you start them, they rev up to, say, 2500 RPM, and then drop off to idle from there (if it's cold, they high idle for a bit to heat the oil and coolant, but still). In the vette, when you start it, it revs to maybe 1000RPM? Doesn't exactly sound like a sportscar...
(got a chance to drive an F430 a couple years back, and was super impressed with the noise it made on startup)

The throttle pedal most of the time only has an effect after the engine has completely started and just makes it sound stupid.

Is there a particular parameter in HPtuners or EFIlive that can be adjusted to give more fuel/throttle at startup?

Thanks

P.S.: I already have headers and catback. still want more sound
P.P.S.: I'm aware that my neighbors, friends, family, and any human being within a 0.5 mile radius will probably resent me for asking this question. I'm okay with that, simply for the shear aural pleasure I'm thinking this will provide

CI GS

LOL! I'm glad I'm not your neighbour man!
That's easy to do: Just find the "idle speed vs. coolant temp" table and bump up the idle RPM in the cells in the "P/N" column (as in Park/Neutral) for the lower temps, so that on cold start ups you'll get the desired idle RPM until the engine warms up. I have my trucks tune set at 950 at cold start up and then it ramps down to 750 once it warms up. I did this since it has an aftermarket cam.
One word of warning though: since like 90% of engine wear occurs on cold startups, its probably not a healthy thing for your engine to experience higher RPMs immediately on startup. I don't know why Ferrari does that, probably because, like a race car, it wouldn't idle properly cold. I dunno about you but I think it's best that the the engine runs a bit slower until oil and block temps reach operating ranges.
I have a suggestion: bump the idle up slightly and install an NPP exhaust (if you don't have one) and a manual switch and leave it in open mode for start ups. How's that?

corvetteflier

Bullets.

njedwardz

already have PRT's.

On the subject of oiling/engine wear, I was thinking it could be beneficial to somehow tune to cut fuel for a second or 2 to pre oil (like clear flood but without the wimpy, stumbling start that always produces whenever it finally does introduce fuel)

CI GS

Yep. I was thinking the same thing. But then it might sound like one of those old Mopars from the 60s with a gear reduction starter. So when you're done, your car would crank like a Mopar, idle like a Ferrari and run like a Vette!
See, everyone likes to have an engine that fires on the first crank, but the truth is that it's better to have one that cranks a bit before it fires so that you get an oil film in the bearing cavities before combustion occurs. There's still a bit of wear because the engine is turning at first without any oil pressure, but at least the reciprocating assembly doesn't have load on it from combustion. I'm not sure how to get that effect with a tune though.
The best case scenario would be to have some form of pre-oiler that stores oil in a canister (like the Moroso Accumulator that I have on the BBC in my boat) that stores pressurised oil at shutdown and then, when you hit the key, that pressurised oil is immediately released into the oil galley in the engine. In actual fact, Moroso makes an electric solenoid valve for its accumulators, so I'm surprised that more folks don't use those on their street cars to ensure engine longevity. I guess it's not that sexy a part and doesn't increase HP (although it can in some cases by allowing you to run less oil in the sump to attenuate windage) so most of us won't bother. And after all, no engine builder or car manufacturer is going to help prevent you from having to avail yourself of their services...

TurboLX

There's a startup airflow table that has its own decay factor. Larger numbers in the starting airflow table will have a bigger flare on startup. Lower numbers in the decay table will slow down the return to normal idle if that's what you want. If your normal warmed up airflow calibration (MAF and VE) is right, the startup flare is actually very tune-able to one's taste.

familyman's C7

My neighbors wish I had a quieter startup.

Gabbiani

Along with startup airflow and idle look at flare control in the spark section. I usually half this table on modded cars so they stumble less when starting. Once you add air this table will try to stop it from reving at startup.