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Old 04-02-2014, 01:49 PM
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jnrandall
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Hi,

I will be ordering an E Force s/c for my 2011 GS in the next week or so. My mechanic friend will be doing the installation. The car currently has ARH and a tune by Lew (06MonteSS) flashed with my Intune programmer. Just before or right after the install, I will revert back to the factory tune. I assume I can't just drive away after the install -- so I need a tuner to visit the shop in Long Island and install an initial tune to get me limping along until I can rent some dyno time. Right? If that's correct, does anyone in the NY area know of anyone who's for hire? Are there other options, i.e. mail order PCM swaps, etc?

Thanks!
J

Last edited by jnrandall; 04-02-2014 at 02:01 PM.
Old 04-02-2014, 09:11 PM
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Streetk14
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Originally Posted by jnrandall
Hi,

I will be ordering an E Force s/c for my 2011 GS in the next week or so. My mechanic friend will be doing the installation. The car currently has ARH and a tune by Lew (06MonteSS) flashed with my Intune programmer. Just before or right after the install, I will revert back to the factory tune. I assume I can't just drive away after the install -- so I need a tuner to visit the shop in Long Island and install an initial tune to get me limping along until I can rent some dyno time. Right? If that's correct, does anyone in the NY area know of anyone who's for hire? Are there other options, i.e. mail order PCM swaps, etc?

Thanks!
J
The E-Force kit should include a flash programmer and a calibration (aka tune) for your supercharger and larger injectors. Unless you choose to buy a "tuner" kit, that is -- those do not come with the flash programmer.

Even with headers, there is nothing wrong with running the calibration Edelbrock supplies. At least as just a starter tune. It could be slightly lean at WOT, but based on my experience (and the wisdom of those that are far better tuners than I'll ever be) it shouldn't if the MAF curve is properly calibrated.

I put my '13 GS on the dyno when it was bone stock so I had some baseline power numbers. AFR was mid-high 11's on the dyno pulls. After adding headers and installing my wideband, I found no change in AFR at WOT. With an aftermarket intake your results may vary, but with the stock one and proper MAF tables, it made no difference.

Anyway.... run Edelbrock's tune when you finish the blower install, then fine tune it later. You definitely DO NOT want to drive the car with the larger injectors and the stock injector data.
Old 04-02-2014, 10:13 PM
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jnrandall
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Thanks for the info!
Old 04-05-2014, 11:32 AM
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Dano523
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Keep in mind that you will be jumping for around 380rwhp to around 540rwhp with the 600hp kit, so time to think about Clutch and drive line upgrades as well.

As for clutch kits, your in the $1500 range for a twin disc set up. The Z06 is rated around 550HP, but kiss it good by with a couple of hard launches.

I'm dropping in a Eforce 600hp into my z51 this winter, and between the 600hp E-force, ATI hb, OBX LT, clutch, and drive line upgrades, it will end up around $15,000 mark in the end.

P.S, the Harmonic balancer has to be pinned to the crank with the E-force install, so get a ATI harmonic balancer to be installed and pinned with the kit, instead of pinning the stock HB to crank. The stock HB is a pure junk, and trying to use with with the E-force is going to be nothing but a head ache with it having to be replaced shortly anyways when it fails.

Last edited by Dano523; 04-07-2014 at 12:57 AM.
Old 04-05-2014, 03:57 PM
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Thanks! I'll look into the HB upgrade as well.
Old 04-07-2014, 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jnrandall
Thanks! I'll look into the HB upgrade as well.
There should be no labor cost to in stalling the ATI HB (the tech will have to pin either the stock HB or the ATI), and it's not a upgrade, but think of it as mandatory instead. With the added belt torque to the HB balancer from the E force, the stock HB goes south even faster than the normal 50K they normally last.
Old 04-07-2014, 10:56 PM
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I've never had any issues with the stock crank pulleys myself. I ran the stock one on my '08 with over 12 psi of boost and a very tight belt with zero issues. I think the balancer issue was more common on earlier C6 models.

If the installer is going to remove the steering rack to pin the crank, then there wouldn't be much added labor expense. I'd suspect most good Corvette shops don't pull the rack to pin a crank, though. It can be done by lifting the engine and/or lowering the cradle. If that's the case, it will probably be quite a bit more labor to install a new balancer.

I also had ZERO issues with my stock LS7 clutch at 650+ (at the time) rwhp. The 27-spline main shaft in my TR6060 sheared off before I noticed any clutch issues. I swapped it out for a ZR1 clutch since the drivetrain had to come out, but I wouldn't have if I hadn't been in that situation.

Unless you're planning to drag race on sticky tires, the stock LS7 clutch should be more than fine. I was only making 460 rwhp at the time, but I ran the hell out of my car on Hoosier drag radials at a private track rental with the original clutch. At one point, I was hot lapping the thing. No clutch issues at all. Your results may vary, but I wouldn't jump into added expenses when they may not be needed for the way you plan to drive the car.
Old 04-07-2014, 11:16 PM
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Thanks Streetk14. Unless my driving style changes with the sc, I tend to think I may be OK as well with out replacing things during the install. I do open her up but rarely from a dig. 97% of the time, i do runs from a roll. I don't have drag radials, don't go to the track and don't launch it frequently. I guess time will tell.
Old 04-07-2014, 11:27 PM
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I think you'll be totally fine with the original clutch. Enjoy the new power.

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