jayyyw

It's active at any voltage OVER your set point. So if you set it to 2v, it will activate at anything over, roughly, a 1/4 throttle.

73DBG

Set the TPS volts at 2 made several successful 5500 or so 3/4 NLS with a co-pilot watching my RPMs and shifts monitoring the real time data on the software, thanks again broski!

also sorry to hear about your loss my friend...😔😥

73DBG

So I’ve got it set at 200 milliseconds the auto function has it at 350 milliseconds which seems way to long, getting some conflicting theories now...

I have the voltage at 2v and 200 m/s someone tell me if I’m all fucked up or what? Do I want it working at WOT and damn near rev limiter or not? Raise the volts up? With the volts at 4 and 5 it wasn’t engaging at 5000-5500 RPMs at say half-3/4 throttle so lowering it to 2v it will engage and work at 1/4-1/2 throttle which in my car is still moving the f out honestly, just testing if I have to go full WOT it’s problematic and I need much more room and clear road, a little WOT in 2nd (if it hooks) or thirds and I’m well into the triple digits real quick like

neutron82

you can test the full up and down voltage with the software to get the range and then use that number to figure out the volts at whatever throttle percentage works for you... I have mine set to around 80% because I don't want it engaging if I'm not all the way in it

73DBG

Ok I’m understanding more now and having a co-pilot to adjust **** and watch RPMS helped a ton!

Here’s my thoughts/concerns/goals

Soon enough I’d like to have it at say 70-80% or pretty much WOT for it to engage, right now I’d like it lower so I can get practice at around 5000/5500 RPMs, with the temp drop and seeing negative DA’s now god knows what I’m actually making now especially with higher ethanol content. Last month with 96 deg air temp and 2500 DA it made 944/801 loaded and SAE corrected. Even at 5000 RPMs I’m gonna be running up on or well over triple digit speeds especially if I’m in 3rd so that makes getting practice problematic


Jay I know you feel me your **** was even faster and made more power so I’m gonna have to lean heavy on your advice, Ronin you’ve always got good intel as well just trying to get this down and not money shift this thing, I know y’all feel me on that!

Greatly appreciate all the replies gents! good ****!! 🇺🇸

other useful information...my rev limiter is currently set at 7200, raptor lights up the world at 6900 and from third I’ve only had the shift light go off once so far, this thing pulls like a train and the 28” tires have third gear longer then the clintons body count list😳 it 100% can do 60-130mph in just 3rd gear, I believe 133-135mph is rev limiter outta 3rd now

jayyyw

Honestly, you can leave the TPS voltage threshold at 2v. That way, you can still back off the throttle some when you are shifting and it'll still cut spark. Lower the cut time as you get more comfortable shifting. The ideal time would be to where it was a seamless transition into the next gear with no hesitation. That would likely be down into the 50ms range.

73DBG

that’s exactly what I’ve been doing, still at 2v and 200ms I’ll chip away as I get better, it’s still not easy breaking that muscle memory of lifting off the gas lol

5 Liter Eater

Used this on the farmvette, Just left it on auto. Results were awesome, very little boost drop on shifts as opposed to going all the way back into vacuum each time. Also used the two step as a makeshift rolling anti lag.

73DBG

I was wondering if that was possible, using the two step like that. How’d you do it? What did you have it set at and how did you use it?

jayyyw

Wire up a button in parallel with your clutch switch, set your 2-step RPM to whatever corresponds to the speed you want, and see the activation point low. Get to your RPM, hold the button, press the gas and it'll hold the RPM there. I couldn't get the WOT box to act right for me. I'm sure it was the non-resistor spark plugs I was using. I switched to the LNC-003 and it all worked perfect.

73DBG

So I’m getting used to the no lift shifts and it’s working as expected except it seems I have to have my laptop open and the cable plugged in with the N2MB software open for the 2 step and NLS to be active

what am I missing? Seems like that shouldn’t be the case, did I change something and not realize it? I feel like once it’s set up and the “read” and “write” are done it should just work from then on at the parameters I set....right?

Pb82 Ronin

That should not be a thing. When nothing is connected, it should operate in it's last programmed operations.

EDIT: May have to give Jon a call...

73DBG

gotcha, I thought that’s how it should work and I know when it was first hooked up that’s how it worked but something isn’t right now apparently because it’s only working with the way I described

jayyyw

Yeah, that's pretty much the trouble I had with mine. Which is why I got rid of it. I went to the LNC-003 and it worked every single time.

Pb82 Ronin

Funny thing is, I never used a laptop to program mine. I just used the button and flash method. I never had issues. I honestly bet it's something simple like a check box or something like that.

73DBG

it could be as simple as a “save” button I haven’t been clicking I asked a buddy of mine who has one and he asked me if I was “saving” after I made changes....my next question was...there’s a “save” button? 🤔

Pb82 Ronin

The "write" button saves your settings to the device.

jayyyw

What spark plugs are you running? How do you have it wired up?

73DBG

Ok well I definitely write it every time I have the laptop up and connected, I was thinking maybe there was an additional “save settings” option I wasn’t using.

73DBG

spark plugs are BR7EF and I’m not 100% sure on the wiring my shop did that. But when I first had it all hooked up it was working without the laptop...now it’s not