At what power level do people stop saying stock intake mani is best?
03-09-2018, 11:15 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
At what power level do people stop saying stock intake mani is best?
I'm building a 408 LS3 for my C5Z Ans know everyone beats the "stock is best spend money elsewhere" drum, but I'm buying everything new and don't want to leave anything on the table. The car will be a TT half mile car hoping to make north of 1200 on a HSP kit. Cam should make power to 7500 and it will be an e85 car. I'm leaning toward a holley hi ram, but am open to suggestions...
03-10-2018, 09:13 AM
#2
Team Owner
IMO around 24-25psi, and not because of power, but because of reliability of blowing the factory intakes up at that level. Power level is irrelevant IMO.
The G1 intakes are nice. I would contact James and have him build you a custom intake to your specs.
The G1 intakes are nice. I would contact James and have him build you a custom intake to your specs.
03-10-2018, 10:15 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
That's really a trick question....
Like Nick stated....the stock intake is a great piece that's hard to beat up to the point it's structural integrity becomes an issue. Everyone wants the intake that makes the most torque and the best peak horsepower.....funny thing is often doing so can make you slower by compromising traction. In many cases giving up mid range torque for high rpm horsepower can make 1/2 and 1 mile runs faster....watched a high rise car down 100 ft lb pick up 8 mph in the 1/2 with only a 28hp bump in peak. Of course where traction is plentiful the results may be much different.....
Like Nick stated....the stock intake is a great piece that's hard to beat up to the point it's structural integrity becomes an issue. Everyone wants the intake that makes the most torque and the best peak horsepower.....funny thing is often doing so can make you slower by compromising traction. In many cases giving up mid range torque for high rpm horsepower can make 1/2 and 1 mile runs faster....watched a high rise car down 100 ft lb pick up 8 mph in the 1/2 with only a 28hp bump in peak. Of course where traction is plentiful the results may be much different.....
03-10-2018, 11:19 AM
#4
Team Owner
There is no "power number". If you had a motor setup to turn 8500+ and geared to stay 5k+ all the time, and only made 400hp, then a short runner intake would work great.
03-10-2018, 06:37 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
I'm building a 408 LS3 for my C5Z Ans know everyone beats the "stock is best spend money elsewhere" drum, but I'm buying everything new and don't want to leave anything on the table. The car will be a TT half mile car hoping to make north of 1200 on a HSP kit. Cam should make power to 7500 and it will be an e85 car. I'm leaning toward a holley hi ram, but am open to suggestions...
It's less about power, yes boost is a consideration.....but rpm's is where the real choice lies.
Whether you can compare these tests or not, many will argue, of course we'd like to see them on a different engine, different heads, different cam...and also boost...but the same trend always appears.
Below 6500rpm almost nothing beats a factory intake, certainly for value for money. The gap may change a little with a higher flowing engine though vs some aftermarket OEM style intakes.
But above 6500rpm....the shorter runner, large plenums takeover.
So if you're going to make power to 7500rpm and use that or more...then no, a factory type intake is not a great choice.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/giant...dyno-shootout/
03-10-2018, 07:48 PM
#6
Former Vendor
And therein lies your answer.
It's less about power, yes boost is a consideration.....but rpm's is where the real choice lies.
Whether you can compare these tests or not, many will argue, of course we'd like to see them on a different engine, different heads, different cam...and also boost...but the same trend always appears.
Below 6500rpm almost nothing beats a factory intake, certainly for value for money. The gap may change a little with a higher flowing engine though vs some aftermarket OEM style intakes.
But above 6500rpm....the shorter runner, large plenums takeover.
So if you're going to make power to 7500rpm and use that or more...then no, a factory type intake is not a great choice.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/giant...dyno-shootout/
It's less about power, yes boost is a consideration.....but rpm's is where the real choice lies.
Whether you can compare these tests or not, many will argue, of course we'd like to see them on a different engine, different heads, different cam...and also boost...but the same trend always appears.
Below 6500rpm almost nothing beats a factory intake, certainly for value for money. The gap may change a little with a higher flowing engine though vs some aftermarket OEM style intakes.
But above 6500rpm....the shorter runner, large plenums takeover.
So if you're going to make power to 7500rpm and use that or more...then no, a factory type intake is not a great choice.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/giant...dyno-shootout/
03-19-2018, 10:01 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Run the LS3 intake and invest in a REAL aftermarket EFI setup and quality turbo. Mine still pulls to 7500rpm+ and I can't even use the power fully even with boost by gear. Never broken one..... and I had the fastest RWD 1/2 mile car at Shift Sector for a couple years in a row. Only in 4th gear can I finally pour in more than 1000rwhp. In 5th I can blow the tires off at 180mph easily and have to pedal it big time even ramping in the boost. I've only raced at Coalinga airstrip and I can tell you that it is a very slippery/dirty surface. I've heard McMinville in Oregon is good.... as is the Colorado runway they use (Shift Sector).
I run $2/gal e85..... and conservative timing. Just let the boost do the work. On 14psi it makes 1060rwhp. I run 20-22psi in 5th gear and haven't dynoed it that high but I'm guessing 1200rwhp+ as my turbo is rated to around 1500 flywheel. My car could use a bit of aero work (rear wing and flat bottom) to improve things and traction control for sure. Maybe add a couple hundred pounds of weight over the rear axle. I only race with a full tank of fuel. It makes a difference!
If it were me.... I wouldn't run a 4" stroke.... the 3.622" stroke works just fine with enough turbo/good heads.
Play with your gearing to see where you feel the car will be running mostly.... I have a 3.31 gear out back with only a 26" tall tire.
http://fitbodyshop.net/gear/index.php
I run $2/gal e85..... and conservative timing. Just let the boost do the work. On 14psi it makes 1060rwhp. I run 20-22psi in 5th gear and haven't dynoed it that high but I'm guessing 1200rwhp+ as my turbo is rated to around 1500 flywheel. My car could use a bit of aero work (rear wing and flat bottom) to improve things and traction control for sure. Maybe add a couple hundred pounds of weight over the rear axle. I only race with a full tank of fuel. It makes a difference!
If it were me.... I wouldn't run a 4" stroke.... the 3.622" stroke works just fine with enough turbo/good heads.
Play with your gearing to see where you feel the car will be running mostly.... I have a 3.31 gear out back with only a 26" tall tire.
http://fitbodyshop.net/gear/index.php
Last edited by gnx7; 03-19-2018 at 10:26 PM.
03-20-2018, 12:35 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
1100 or so. I know Albert has popped a few, one at our track rentals here in Houston and we tried to get mine off my car which was down and back out for him to run a number. As Unreal said, it’s really a reliability thing if it’s a street/strip car.
There’s some new intakes out now that I’d be interested in if I were still in the game. I ran 26-27psi through a maxed out Novi 2500 on a stock LS2 intake and didn’t have an issue. But I’m sure I would have eventually popped it.
There’s some new intakes out now that I’d be interested in if I were still in the game. I ran 26-27psi through a maxed out Novi 2500 on a stock LS2 intake and didn’t have an issue. But I’m sure I would have eventually popped it.