Keeping Procharged Setup cool and happy....suggestions ?
08-28-2017, 12:29 PM
#21
Racer
i'll have to log my Iats, my tuner says they are high and causing heat soak after i did a 2nd through 4th pull on the interstate on a 70degree day. I can only imagen what my Iats are after waiting in a staging lane, doing a burnout, staging, then mashing on it going down the track. I have the older version procharger fmic, the h.0. one from 09. i'm also maxing out my d1sc causing high iat's as well. Looking to go to a f1a-94 and possibly a different intercooler as well to make a little more horse 900 and not have the blower maxed out causing extreme heat.
08-28-2017, 10:35 PM
#22
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
i'll have to log my Iats, my tuner says they are high and causing heat soak after i did a 2nd through 4th pull on the interstate on a 70degree day. I can only imagen what my Iats are after waiting in a staging lane, doing a burnout, staging, then mashing on it going down the track. I have the older version procharger fmic, the h.0. one from 09. i'm also maxing out my d1sc causing high iat's as well. Looking to go to a f1a-94 and possibly a different intercooler as well to make a little more horse 900 and not have the blower maxed out causing extreme heat.
08-28-2017, 10:37 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Wouldn't happen to have a pic of the modded stock shroud ? (Also why do only half of the Photobucket pics show up and other say third party something or other ?)
As always mention in these "running hot" threads.... I have done a lot of small things to try and help cooling, but I still believe the most important thing is sealing things so the airflow is forced properly through the rad. I maintained the stock shroud (with some cutting) to accomplish this and have no issues. Granted, it doesn't get that hot here, only maybe near 90 on the very hottest days, and that's rare.
What I do find a bit weird, is that no matter what the ambient temp is... anywhere from 60-90, my car runs the same termpertures...
Highway .... 188-190
Stop and go in residential area... stop signs at evey corner.... 194-195
Stuck in heavy traffic.... just under 200, and will occasionally creep up to 203 but never over that.
This is without AC ....which I rarely use. With AC on in traffic, 215 is the most i have seen.
I think better coolant flow at idle and low rpm would help some. I notice that when stuck in traffic, if i just hold the throttle at something like 1200 rpm, the temp drops a few degrees. Not something i worry about, but could be a clue to slightly better temps in traffic conditions.
What I do find a bit weird, is that no matter what the ambient temp is... anywhere from 60-90, my car runs the same termpertures...
Highway .... 188-190
Stop and go in residential area... stop signs at evey corner.... 194-195
Stuck in heavy traffic.... just under 200, and will occasionally creep up to 203 but never over that.
This is without AC ....which I rarely use. With AC on in traffic, 215 is the most i have seen.
I think better coolant flow at idle and low rpm would help some. I notice that when stuck in traffic, if i just hold the throttle at something like 1200 rpm, the temp drops a few degrees. Not something i worry about, but could be a clue to slightly better temps in traffic conditions.
08-28-2017, 10:58 PM
#24
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by Six-Gun-Todd
Wouldn't happen to have a pic of the modded stock shroud ? (Also why do only half of the Photobucket pics show up and other say third party something or other ?)
Basically a matter of trimming it to fit back with your setup. Measure, trim, try, and repeat. Here's a pic it trimming in progress.
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08-29-2017, 07:27 AM
#26
Advanced
After a couple years of "to busy" to wrench I'm back and trying to enjoy my new setup....built LS9, F1 Procharger, alky injection, custom cam, 3 pump fuel system, and anything else I could get my mits on. Problem is she runs hot and I've researched as far as I can go....
Here's what I have
1. Dewitt radiator with oil cooler (stock height)
2. Stock fan direct wired (Dewitt dual fan setup was WAY worse)
3. Custom shrouding from intercooler to radiator
4. 70/30 mix with water wetter
5. Heat extractor carbon fiber hood
So my questions....does the shrouding on the intercooler ala A&A kit help much ? Does the ZR1 air splitter contribute to better cooling ? I saw a sweet radiator/condenser/intercooler module that was all one piece...who makes that ? Evan's waterless coolant any good ? D3 fan setup worth the price ?
Here's what I have
1. Dewitt radiator with oil cooler (stock height)
2. Stock fan direct wired (Dewitt dual fan setup was WAY worse)
3. Custom shrouding from intercooler to radiator
4. 70/30 mix with water wetter
5. Heat extractor carbon fiber hood
So my questions....does the shrouding on the intercooler ala A&A kit help much ? Does the ZR1 air splitter contribute to better cooling ? I saw a sweet radiator/condenser/intercooler module that was all one piece...who makes that ? Evan's waterless coolant any good ? D3 fan setup worth the price ?
08-29-2017, 09:19 AM
#28
Burning Brakes
Seen this many many times.
You can have 800rwhp stock LS3 without heat problems but as soon as you put forged stuff in the same engine with lower compression heat becomes an issue. And it isn't because of piston or crank or rod material.
08-29-2017, 10:46 AM
#29
Team Owner
Yep, which is another reason to keep the compression up.
Plus location has a huge effect. I had zero heat issues in Utah. None, zip, ran 205 or less all the time with almost stock setup. Now Arizona is a whole new world.
Plus location has a huge effect. I had zero heat issues in Utah. None, zip, ran 205 or less all the time with almost stock setup. Now Arizona is a whole new world.
08-29-2017, 07:18 PM
#31
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I think my radiator is angled to much to use it like that....but my sheet metal shroud comes close.
I've been thinking about doing an air to water with a Magnuson lower manifold/intercooler brick and fabing an inlet.....a bit surprised no one has tried this...
I've been thinking about doing an air to water with a Magnuson lower manifold/intercooler brick and fabing an inlet.....a bit surprised no one has tried this...
Photobucket killed photo sharing so pics previously posted don't show.
Basically a matter of trimming it to fit back with your setup. Measure, trim, try, and repeat. Here's a pic it trimming in progress.
Attachment 48201079
Attachment 48201078
Basically a matter of trimming it to fit back with your setup. Measure, trim, try, and repeat. Here's a pic it trimming in progress.
Attachment 48201079
Attachment 48201078
08-29-2017, 09:38 PM
#32
Team Owner
There is simply cheaper/easier ways to get better results which is why people probably haven't done it. If you wanted to do that I would just go all out and do a highram cooler setup and do a big cowl hood.
08-30-2017, 11:59 AM
#33
RealCanuk's setup looks/works great, when I did the shroud on mine I just took the stock ECS upper sheet metal thing around the intake tube and cut it with a cutting wheel and then stood radiator up a little more by moving the top mounting brackets forward a little and then fab'd some side plates out of sheet metal bought at home depot, took front bumper off and notched the front bumper frame rail for more intercooler/radiator flow, it all worked out great and cost very little.
I have meth so IAT sensor may be getting saturated a bit but my IATs are very low even at 175mph+ in the 1/2 mile with base ECS intercooler and D1SC. I don't see how A2W is necessary at <900whp on these cars.
I have meth so IAT sensor may be getting saturated a bit but my IATs are very low even at 175mph+ in the 1/2 mile with base ECS intercooler and D1SC. I don't see how A2W is necessary at <900whp on these cars.
08-30-2017, 11:55 PM
#34
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
CFM is comparable to a TVS 2300.....thought I saw 1500 cfm for it verses 1650 for the F1A at peak efficiency. Making the turn would probably eat up some flow though.....
Might try to add some airflow panels like the A&A intercooler and trim the lower part of the core support. Are you guys just trimming it or boxing it as well ?
Might try to add some airflow panels like the A&A intercooler and trim the lower part of the core support. Are you guys just trimming it or boxing it as well ?
Cost, complexity, weight, and those uppers only support so much flow so it is a restriction.
There is simply cheaper/easier ways to get better results which is why people probably haven't done it. If you wanted to do that I would just go all out and do a highram cooler setup and do a big cowl hood.
There is simply cheaper/easier ways to get better results which is why people probably haven't done it. If you wanted to do that I would just go all out and do a highram cooler setup and do a big cowl hood.
08-31-2017, 09:08 AM
#35
Team Owner
Trimmed mine, drove like that for ~1.5 years, then welded a plate in next time I had bumper off.
09-01-2017, 01:10 PM
#36
I just trimmed mine, next time I have the bumper off the car I'll weld it up. I noticed no difference at all in the car (turn in, stiffness, etc) after trimming it too fwiw.
09-01-2017, 04:15 PM
#37
A big help is also an air gap between you IC and condenser/radiator and another is to try and get the IC and condenser/radiator angle as close to the same as possible. I have good luck with the dual fans you spoke of as well wired direct. But didn't try the stocker with all the changes. My car runs between 176-185 with A/C on in summer heat of Texas. GL!
09-05-2017, 08:30 AM
#38
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
84 degrees yesterday and highway temps are 201-205 without AC so I'm getting somewhere....
Temps drop when I get off the highway about 10 degrees so stock fan is working better....but I'm definitely getting air moving around the intercooler/radiator package. Thinking I'm going to throw the book at her....separate out the oil and trans cooler from the radiator and run coolers in the fog openings, D3 fans, trim core support, and maybe a cut down Dewitt mounted to be more vertical. Also going to move the BOV which can't be helping because it's right behind the radiator fan (there's some serious air coming off that baby competing with the rad fan)
Temps drop when I get off the highway about 10 degrees so stock fan is working better....but I'm definitely getting air moving around the intercooler/radiator package. Thinking I'm going to throw the book at her....separate out the oil and trans cooler from the radiator and run coolers in the fog openings, D3 fans, trim core support, and maybe a cut down Dewitt mounted to be more vertical. Also going to move the BOV which can't be helping because it's right behind the radiator fan (there's some serious air coming off that baby competing with the rad fan)
09-05-2017, 08:38 AM
#39
Team Owner
Stay full size dewitts. No reason to go cut down.