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Post accel smoke went awake, changed oil which looked clearn. Had car on lift and full inspection checked out.
Tinkered with some stuff
Got out for some WOT pulls to setup boost by gear,
The good:
Tested boost by gear with 10psi n 1st and 15 in 2nd. The Toyos held up to 1200hp flywheel per the ProEFI measurement all the way to 7900rpm with 15% max wheel spin maxingat 12psi.
Quick shift to 3rd and let off.... but it kept accelerating uncontrollably... right off the road.
JK!
Throttle did get stuck to the flor though so I killed the engine and coasted to a stop, Luckily wasn't far and I was able to get the pedal off the ground manually
Guess I just wanted to go faster:
Kevin and Zach rebuilt the pedal with more supports, changed the angle that the rods pull the cable and added a stop on the floor to prevent any future overzealous throttle use
Finally made room and secured a tool kit, tire pump, jumper cables in case any road side problem occur
Now just need a day to get out and test 3rd at 20psi
Last edited by SinisterC6; 10-04-2020 at 10:21 PM.
More updates:
Got to the dyno and made 580hp at 5k rpm with 5lb springs before findings some problems
1) Oil is aerating above 5k rpm
2) Ignition is breaking up
3) Car running 210*s at idle
4) Boost/ Fuel pressure gauges not giving values
5) Idle air controller only able to add 400rpm
6) Turbos leaking oil
Solutions
1) Discussed with engine builder who recommends 4-5 gallons of oil capacity, after discussing with my fabricator some options including a rear mounted Peterson tank, two smaller tanks, or cutting the frame to fit a larger tank this was the solution:
Started with a 5 gallon dry sump tank sourced locally, it was origionally made for a nascar engine and just collecting dust in a shop, its much larger than the LS7 tank at 23x9in as oppose to 19x7.5.
Tank itself was modified moving the fill laterally and putting a small notch in the curvature to allow the fender to sit flush. We then cut the tank in half to clean out all the shards and rotate the feed line toward the pump
The tank now sits under the fender liner, fiber glass was removed to allow it to sit. The tank sits higher than before and still clears the tire miraculously
To further clean out the tank and ensure no debris from fabrication was left in i washed it out with water circulating through it for 24 hours and then through an oil bath where oil was pumped up and debris was caught in a screen before geting circulated with a pump sucking through an oil filter.
The final plumbing will place a screen pre pump and the filter sees the oil before the engine.
If there is still aeration ill be purchasing a spintric.
Since the tank took up the home of my ECUs the Pro EFI and Pro 70 got mounted in the glove box with minimal modification
2) New coils ordered from pro EFI, since they're a 5 wire design i picked up a wire harness from Holley. I moved the coils from the the fenders to the cowls since I deleted my wipers long ago and wanted easier access to the coils for service. This is also were my TC8 box will be mounted for the EGT sensors
3) Figured out the car car had a 200* thermostat - DOH, any way installed a 160* unit and prospeed fans. Fit was ok, used foam to seal them up better
4) Simple but time consuming to track down the sending unit wires burried in the dash and rewiring to new sending units
5) Drilled and tapped the elbow to give it a direct link to the intake as oppose to off a T with the brake booster, the fuel pressure regulator and map sensor keep their dedicated ports for accuracy
6) Fixed this with a second check valve on the drain side, the system uses two pumps both pre and post turbo but the oil was back feeding since the tank is mounted higher than them,
So now the to do list is much shorter:
-Plumb oil tank
-Install plug wires
-Catch can install
-Start up and check for leaks, change oil and filter then hopefully we can spin this engine to 8500 rpm
-Tune for meth injection, E85, E100 and a secret shot of nos
-Wire management
-Clean up
After making the tank larger did you have any issues with oil pressure? Is the oil tank the only thing that was changed? What are the oil pressures and temps when on the dyno/ street driving? I am having some issues above 5500rpm with it falling off but it seems like it is a pump issue.
After making the tank larger did you have any issues with oil pressure? Is the oil tank the only thing that was changed? What are the oil pressures and temps when on the dyno/ street driving? I am having some issues above 5500rpm with it falling off but it seems like it is a pump issue.
Oil pressure is 70 at idle and goes to 120 and holds until redline
Oil temps have been a consistent 180 to 185* driving on 80 to 90 degree days. it may peak around 200 degree but comes back down to 180* within 5 minutes of street driving.
From what I saw tank empties and the aerated oil doesn't fill the tank quick enough to keep going.
This tank is 20qt
Last edited by SinisterC6; 10-09-2020 at 05:15 PM.
I'm curious because I saw an old video of you and your car on YouTube. What situations should you need nitrous to helps spool the Turbos when you have proEFI with anti lag and all the Built-in goodies?
sinister. The reason I ask is because I have twin 7575 on a manual car, and for not much I can upgrade them over the Winter to 78's which only changes the impeller and compressor housing. But I do not wanna get into a situation where I need nitrous to spool them. I can currently brake boost them to about 8 pounds and the antilag can easily get them to 12 psi haven't tried for anything more. I do have an issue with them falling during flat foot shifting but I think that's more in the tuning.
Last edited by Summerkruse13; 10-11-2020 at 03:23 PM.
sinister. The reason I ask is because I have twin 7575 on a manual car, and for not much I can upgrade them over the Winter to 78's which only changes the impeller and compressor housing. But I do not wanna get into a situation where I need nitrous to spool them. I can currently brake boost them to about 8 pounds and the antilag can easily get them to 12 psi haven't tried for anything more. I do have an issue with them falling during flat foot shifting but I think that's more in the tuning.
It was more a just incase
I didn't want the car to have to come apart should I find the system to be laggy so I went ahead and installed for future needs.
Right now the rear toyos are at their limit at 12psi in second, the system commands 15psi
I need open space and time without traffic to test out 3rd and 4th and see how they like 20 and 25 psi
I didn't want the car to have to come apart should I find the system to be laggy so I went ahead and installed for future needs.
Right now the rear toyos are at their limit at 12psi in second, the system commands 15psi
I need open space and time without traffic to test out 3rd and 4th and see how they like 20 and 25 psi
I'm Happy for you Sinister that your Vette is back together and that you can drive her now, but while your build is Very interesting, it's a bit over my head, so this suggestion comes with a bit of ignorance. Can you just test your Vette on a Mustang loaded dyno to simulate road conditions? I've seen a couple of Pro-Mod's do it and they were putting out more power than Sinister is (3000+ rwhp)? You can do anything on the dyno that you can do on the road.
It would be quite a bit safer than letting that BEAST loose on a public street and chancing you hurting yourself or others. I don't have to tell you, but at that power level, anything can happen.
I don't even know if it's possible or not. Just a suggestion and some food for thought.
I'm Happy for you Sinister that your Vette is back together and that you can drive her now, but while your build is Very interesting, it's a bit over my head, so this suggestion comes with a bit of ignorance. Can you just test your Vette on a Mustang loaded dyno to simulate road conditions? I've seen a couple of Pro-Mod's do it and they were putting out more power than Sinister is (3000+ rwhp)? You can do anything on the dyno that you can do on the road.
It would be quite a bit safer than letting that BEAST loose on a public street and chancing you hurting yourself or others. I don't have to tell you, but at that power level, anything can happen.
I don't even know if it's possible or not. Just a suggestion and some food for thought.
Mustang dyno never going to be any use for that. You'd need a Mainline hub dyno. And if spending any time at any loads, a substantial cooling/fan system for the dyno. But the likes of the Mainline will be able to load the car harder than it would ever see on the road if you wanted.
One strange thing about almost every video I see of guys dynoing cars in the US, is that their airflow setup is either rubbish, or simply non existent. Which seems so bizarre given the power some cars can make.
Some videos even do pulls on cars with no fans at all, which is bonkers.
I'm Happy for you Sinister that your Vette is back together and that you can drive her now, but while your build is Very interesting, it's a bit over my head, so this suggestion comes with a bit of ignorance. Can you just test your Vette on a Mustang loaded dyno to simulate road conditions? I've seen a couple of Pro-Mod's do it and they were putting out more power than Sinister is (3000+ rwhp)? You can do anything on the dyno that you can do on the road.
It would be quite a bit safer than letting that BEAST loose on a public street and chancing you hurting yourself or others. I don't have to tell you, but at that power level, anything can happen.
I don't even know if it's possible or not. Just a suggestion and some food for thought.
really need street driving for most accuracy. Agree with being safe thats why its taking 3 weeks to find a day to make a clean pull
Mustang dyno never going to be any use for that. You'd need a Mainline hub dyno. And if spending any time at any loads, a substantial cooling/fan system for the dyno. But the likes of the Mainline will be able to load the car harder than it would ever see on the road if you wanted.
One strange thing about almost every video I see of guys dynoing cars in the US, is that their airflow setup is either rubbish, or simply non existent. Which seems so bizarre given the power some cars can make.
Some videos even do pulls on cars with no fans at all, which is bonkers.
Thank You for the education and information. I Appreciate it.
10-04-2020, 10:20 PM
Very good, indeed!
