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Really sounds like belt slip, and if not that I would look to pushrod length. Do a quick compression test to make sure valves are not being held slightly open at least.
I'll do that early morning today. and I'll replace the belt too. lets see what will comes over.
Someone looking and saying it is a good belt isn't exactly a good way to see if the belt is slipping.
Tighten it up, replace belt, or start looking at other options. Been there, done that. Replaced belts, tensioners, etc. Only thing that fixed it was the A&A bracket. You could do a direct drive but they are a pain, and cause other issues, but it may hold with one.
Someone looking and saying it is a good belt isn't exactly a good way to see if the belt is slipping.
Tighten it up, replace belt, or start looking at other options. Been there, done that. Replaced belts, tensioners, etc. Only thing that fixed it was the A&A bracket. You could do a direct drive but they are a pain, and cause other issues, but it may hold with one.
I know that buddy but that belt is 2weeks old not more, I'll replace it today as I said before and check everything up and re run the car again on dyno today and hope it's get fixed. If not I'll start looking for something els.
I'm running a D1 on my FBO LS3 with ID1000's and the boost-a-pump that the procharger came with and also a mild cam setup. Tuning was done by Sam at Advanced Modern Performance. Basically a sister store of Dallas Performance and on pump gas I made 659rwhp and 588 torque on a brand new dynojet about 3 weeks ago on 93 pump in 100 degree heat!!!. When was the last time you changed your belt and what belt are you using? Have you checked plugs? IAT's are extremely hot for a pull through 2nd 3rd and 4th....My car holds 8lbs and has a little tapper up top but not much.
This probably doesnt have any thing to do with it but when was the last time you changed your procharger oil? Have you checked to see how much oil is in there? The flat head screw on top of the procharger is also a dip stick so you can monitor your Procharger oil level. Very easy to change too..Well if whoever put it together routed the drain line somewhere easy to get to. I change mine every 5k miles along with my oil change. Just get both done at the same time so you dont have any worries...
I had a similar issue where when I would go WOT and shift from 4th to 5th, it felt like the car kinda stop pulling as hard 4th gear which a couple months ago it pulled incredibly hard in every gear. So I just thought it might be my imagination because it was noticeable but the car still pulled just not as hard. 3 days after that, I started hearing a weird *** noise so I pulled over and popped the hood and sure enough my belt had started to come apart. I putted the car home and ordered the gates green belt, put it on, tightened it tight, drove it around a little bit not really getting on it but getting the rpm's up to around 5500 or so a few times. Drove it back to my place, re-tightened it and went out that night and woo hoo!! 4th to 5th pulled just as hard as 3rd to 4th Taylor with Dallas Performance and Bryan Pomeroy with Advanced Modern Performance said that its not uncommon to shred these belts because the centrifugal blower's puts a good amount of strain on it and the way you "enjoy" spirited driving as much as you do, I would bet you that you would need a new belt every 12k miles or so, maybe less or more just depending on how heavy your foot is.
Think its a belt issue man because i didnt know what was going on and sure enough 3 days later, my belt was shredding....sorry for the long post...just trying to save you some time and money because this is most probably whats going on. keep us posted because I'm curious to see what it is...And belts are CHEAP (even the best ones) and easy as anything to just try out if yours is older or loose ect...
well first of all thanks for the post Matt, heres whats happen today, belt changed and new plugs too. run the car and I'm losing hours power around 40 well that was like a heart attack for me so we tried to keep everything and looking forward for the issue we re tight the belt and re-run it again weather here is a (Hellbox) it was 40c outdoor so I think there is more Hp coming we made 715 to 720 what we find is the car was reading rich on high end rpm's so we fixed the A/f and everything seams good now.
but I'm still kinda not trusting thats must be the power I should get was looking forward for a 750 at least.
about the head unit oil from what I know that I can't change it at all I can add more if its less not replacing it that what the guys here told me. I used to change my engine oil every 2K cause I know that I push the car so hard at weekends.
last time I check my head unit oil was today and it shows full. and thats the reason I didn't change or add more oil.
I'll post some of today results and video as soon as I upload them.
just now arrived home from the dyno shop and I really looking to eat something then start uploading you guys some photos and videos.
well first of all thanks for the post Matt, heres whats happen today, belt changed and new plugs too. run the car and I'm losing hours power around 40 well that was like a heart attack for me so we tried to keep everything and looking forward for the issue we re tight the belt and re-run it again weather here is a (Hellbox) it was 40c outdoor so I think there is more Hp coming we made 715 to 720 what we find is the car was reading rich on high end rpm's so we fixed the A/f and everything seams good now.
but I'm still kinda not trusting thats must be the power I should get was looking forward for a 750 at least.
about the head unit oil from what I know that I can't change it at all I can add more if its less not replacing it that what the guys here told me. I used to change my engine oil every 2K cause I know that I push the car so hard at weekends.
last time I check my head unit oil was today and it shows full. and thats the reason I didn't change or add more oil.
I'll post some of today results and video as soon as I upload them.
just now arrived home from the dyno shop and I really looking to eat something then start uploading you guys some photos and videos.
best,
Mubarak.
Who tuned your car ? Can you share the tune file with us here ? what spark plugs are you using ? how much did you gap the plugs ?
Who tuned your car ? Can you share the tune file with us here ? what spark plugs are you using ? how much did you gap the plugs ?
I'm tuning at Taqi's motorsports, about the tune file sure no, as you know every tuner use to not sharing his files, but I have seen everything, NGK TR6 iridium plugs, gaped gap at .28
Definitely belt slip... The ProCharger Stg 2 bracket is terrible... You have to have that belt piano string tight to keep it from slipping...and even then the belt will start slipping in no time... The tensioner and adjuster is junk on the bracket....
Go to an A&A bracket or ECS bracket...
A 4.75" pulley is not gonna make much boost but it definitely shouldn't drop from 7 to 4 psi...
Pressure the system up first and check for boost leaks, if none are found, start investigating belt slip. Also get rid of the dongle if that is what your air intake consists of.
You should be able to make power well up to or past 6500... A D1sc will make 800+ hp with a 3.55" pulley, albeit before 6500 but....
Like almost everyone else..... I'm seeing belt slip. A centrifugal supercharger shouldn't drop ANY boost as rpms climb. It should build until you hit the rev limiter. Unless maybe the blower is tapped out -- but your D1 should not be near that point.
I also notice your power seems to taper off very early. Also makes me think belt slip. I'd think valve float would cause a much more severe drop in power.
Listen to what the experienced Procharger users are telling you. Just because a belt "looks good" doesn't mean anything. Just because you don't see any visible signs of slippage doesn't mean anything.
If you don't have HP Tuners (and it sounds like you do not), you should buy it and learn how to log with it. Then you can pull your own tune file if need be. Knowing what's going on with your engine is very important on a car like this.
As many of you guys told me to replace the belt I did and I replace the plugs to to make sure everything is ready .. well first run at the dyno the car made 640whp! which is missing 60whp from 2days ago run while we checking we tried to check the belt and after doing that check car jump as you can see. Still running 4 instead of 6 I think it's need more boost!! what do you think guys?
As many of you guys told me to replace the belt I did and I replace the plugs to to make sure everything is ready .. well first run at the dyno the car made 640whp! which is missing 60whp from 2days ago run while we checking we tried to check the belt and after doing that check car jump as you can see. Still running 4 instead of 6 I think it's need more boost!! what do you think guys?
simply changing the belt is not going to fix belt slip issues. the fact that you are having swings like that tells me further that it is belt slip. You wouldn't have swings like that if it was valve train.
simply changing the belt is not going to fix belt slip issues. the fact that you are having swings like that tells me further that it is belt slip. You wouldn't have swings like that if it was valve train.
My friend couldn't make much past 580rwhp on a d1sc without major slip. Swapped to A&A bracket and no issues, gained 80hp and consistent. I don't know how some PC people seem to make 600+ on a stock PC setup, but I haven't seen it done. Add a direct drive, 8 rib, or swap brackets. Making 650+ on a stock corvette PC setup is something I have never seen in person. Get the belt slip under control and it will make a solid 700+ all day long.
You need that belt as tight as a violin string to have hope of it not slipping. Problem is when you do that, the tensioner bends on the PC setup.
My friend couldn't make much past 580rwhp on a d1sc without major slip. Swapped to A&A bracket and no issues, gained 80hp and consistent. I don't know how some PC people seem to make 600+ on a stock PC setup, but I haven't seen it done. Add a direct drive, 8 rib, or swap brackets. Making 650+ on a stock corvette PC setup is something I have never seen in person. Get the belt slip under control and it will make a solid 700+ all day long.
You need that belt as tight as a violin string to have hope of it not slipping. Problem is when you do that, the tensioner bends on the PC setup.
I'm now planning to lower the compression to 9 and add some coated pistons and rods, with 10-rib to max out the D1 what do you think of this setup?
07-22-2014, 09:17 PM
Taylor with Dallas Performance and Bryan Pomeroy with Advanced Modern Performance said that its not uncommon to shred these belts because the centrifugal blower's puts a good amount of strain on it and the way you "enjoy" spirited driving as much as you do, I would bet you that you would need a new belt every 12k miles or so, maybe less or more just depending on how heavy your foot is. 
