tire, 345 m&h or MT?
04-23-2014, 03:25 PM
#21
WOW!! lol that is bad. Ive had the same set on my car for all of T2K14, couple of weekend trips to neighboring towns, and mine only look maybe down to 75%. I got about 4000 miles out of my last set. Granted I know that the 1/4 pass life span is different than the airstrip life span.
04-23-2014, 03:33 PM
#22
Progressive controller is your friend. I used to spin hard from 3rd on 3yr old drs making 730. But simply made a setting on 70% hit and ramp to 100% in 1sec. Hooked every time, seems like the suspension has time to load and take the tq of the n2o.
04-23-2014, 04:07 PM
#23
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http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....=yes&tab=Specs
Last edited by PRE-Z06; 04-23-2014 at 04:11 PM.
04-23-2014, 04:17 PM
#24
You definitely need an alignment judging by the cording on the inside and no scuffing on the outside and the surface didn't sound conducive to hooking. The Hoosiers are a softer compound and will wear out faster as they get greasy and marbles build up just compounding the traction issue if you continue to spin them putting a ton of heat from high speeds which I didn't think drag radials were even allowed at any of the mile events. Regardless, buddy street/roll races his 700rwhp CTSV on 315/30r18 and gotten a couple thousand miles out of them. I was curious if anyone has tried the 345/40r17 Toyo TQ drag radial below as it worked well with 4.10s at 600rwhp on spray in a C5Z with 315/35r18 not even aired down, cut a 1.5 60' at the dragstrip and they're relatively cheap...
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....=yes&tab=Specs
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....=yes&tab=Specs
alignments happening this friday, it was compounding the issue with how hard it was squating aswell. probably going to dial it back to a 100 shot tonight when i pull the lid again to check on everything inside.
due to track prep being ****** up here and majority of my racing being in mexico im thinking of going with the widest and most surface area i can get down vs gaining a little height. i was looking at the 325 40 18 m&h but your only gaining .3" and loosing .8" over the 345 35 18
also just bumping up to the larger tire i think will help out with the traction
it was a half mile event i was at this weekend and there was no tire restriction. most everybody was on a DR
that toyo you linked looks promising if i end up with a 17 on the rear. overall heigth is good and the width is great
04-23-2014, 05:32 PM
#25
You definitely need an alignment judging by the cording on the inside and no scuffing on the outside and the surface didn't sound conducive to hooking. The Hoosiers are a softer compound and will wear out faster as they get greasy and marbles build up just compounding the traction issue if you continue to spin them putting a ton of heat from high speeds which I didn't think drag radials were even allowed at any of the mile events. Regardless, buddy street/roll races his 700rwhp CTSV on 315/30r18 and gotten a couple thousand miles out of them. I was curious if anyone has tried the 345/40r17 Toyo TQ drag radial below as it worked well with 4.10s at 600rwhp on spray in a C5Z with 315/35r18 not even aired down, cut a 1.5 60' at the dragstrip and they're relatively cheap...
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....=yes&tab=Specs
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....=yes&tab=Specs
04-23-2014, 05:38 PM
#26
Le Mans Master
I would talk to some of the other guys doing the 1/2 mile and 1 mile events and see what they are using for 18" tires. Last thing you want is sway at 180mph+. Another option is swapping your rear brakes to the base brakes to fit smaller wheels just for the events and then putting your ZR1 brakes back on after the event.
04-25-2014, 05:49 PM
#27
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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alignments happening this friday, it was compounding the issue with how hard it was squating aswell. probably going to dial it back to a 100 shot tonight when i pull the lid again to check on everything inside.
due to track prep being ****** up here and majority of my racing being in mexico im thinking of going with the widest and most surface area i can get down vs gaining a little height. i was looking at the 325 40 18 m&h but your only gaining .3" and loosing .8" over the 345 35 18
also just bumping up to the larger tire i think will help out with the traction
it was a half mile event i was at this weekend and there was no tire restriction. most everybody was on a DR
that toyo you linked looks promising if i end up with a 17 on the rear. overall heigth is good and the width is great
due to track prep being ****** up here and majority of my racing being in mexico im thinking of going with the widest and most surface area i can get down vs gaining a little height. i was looking at the 325 40 18 m&h but your only gaining .3" and loosing .8" over the 345 35 18
also just bumping up to the larger tire i think will help out with the traction
it was a half mile event i was at this weekend and there was no tire restriction. most everybody was on a DR
that toyo you linked looks promising if i end up with a 17 on the rear. overall heigth is good and the width is great
The other alternative is stiffer springs, but that can be a double edged sword if surface isn't smooth. Though more sidewall can help absorb bumps, it's all about finding the perfect balance
I do not have any pics of the 315/35r18 that my buddy ran, but I have seen some posted here on the forums. I was curious if anyone has had experience with the 345/40r17? In my experience they are similar to the NT05R in compound, not quite as good as the M/T or Hoosier (I've not run M&H, my dad did back in the '70s lol) though the price of the Toyos is hard to beat.
Last edited by PRE-Z06; 04-25-2014 at 05:55 PM.
04-25-2014, 06:06 PM
#28
Gotcha, half mile events seem to be more lenient. You actually have to compensate with zero or positive camber for maximized straight line contact patch if the car is squatting hard enough from compressing the stock suspension with weight transfer to severely alter the contact patch. Keep in mind it won't be the best for cornering, but then again a drag radial isn't meant for that anyways The other alternative is stiffer springs, but that can be a double edged sword if surface isn't smooth. Though more sidewall can help absorb bumps, it's all about finding the perfect balance
I do not have any pics of the 315/35r18 that my buddy ran, but I have seen some posted here on the forums. I was curious if anyone has had experience with the 345/40r17? In my experience they are similar to the NT05R in compound, not quite as good as the M/T or Hoosier (I've not run M&H, my dad did back in the '70s lol) though the price of the Toyos is hard to beat.
The other alternative is stiffer springs, but that can be a double edged sword if surface isn't smooth. Though more sidewall can help absorb bumps, it's all about finding the perfect balanceI do not have any pics of the 315/35r18 that my buddy ran, but I have seen some posted here on the forums. I was curious if anyone has had experience with the 345/40r17? In my experience they are similar to the NT05R in compound, not quite as good as the M/T or Hoosier (I've not run M&H, my dad did back in the '70s lol) though the price of the Toyos is hard to beat.
after some reading and checking around i think im going to dial the camber out to 0 and run the 345 35 18 mickey and see how she does. seems to be the best street/strip tire and sizing (keep hearing the m&hs run a little small)