07blkvette

I need some input on tire size for a set of drag radials. I have 711hp and Im currently running 275/45/17 et streets on 17x11 C4 ZR1 wheels that dont hook for me. Should I go 295/45/17- 315/35/17 or 335/35/17?

Jeffro_510

I am not a tire expert by any means, but more sidewall equals more traction. By switching to a 35 series tire, i would think you would get the opposite results than what you are looking for.
I would try lowering your air pressure, or warm up the tires and try again.
My 275/50/15's hook a million times better from a dig or from a roll, than my 345/30/19's

5 Liter Eater

I run a 295/45/17 MT and I think they hook quite well.

Slo-Poc

These work very well dig and roll, 17x11 with m&h 325/45/17

realcanuk

5 Liter Eater

For a wide body without LG spindles those are about as good as it gets.

1MEANGS

315 35 17 Hoosier Drag radial would def do the trick... It got FRCs ZR1 into the 8s so no reason why it shouldn't work for 700rwhp! Thats the tire I'm looking @ using!

lane_change

I went with the 335/35/17 Hoosier DR for my new setup for mostly hwy pulls and some track use. Sidewall provides you with most of your traction but contact patch also plays a part. I know people can run crazy fast times on a 275 series tire, DR guys do it all the time so that logic would mean that anything larger is not necessary, except they run amazing times on a well prepped tract after heating the tires up to an optimal temperature. You won't likely have that benefit from a roll, so to me contact patch starts to play more of a role. Plus I felt that the 335/35R17 was the closest to the stock rolling diameter which will not only keep my speedometer correct, but will also maintain my current gear ratios which I preferred. Some people may want a taller or shorter tire to effectively change their gear ratio, that's up to the driver. But here are the figures for the tires mentioned in this thread thus far. Also, I looked at tire weight when deciding which to go with and Hoosier builds a significantly lighter tire than the Mickey Thompson of the same size. Wear may play a factor in your decision as well and Hoosiers don't wear worth a **** imo compared to a Nitto NT05R or the MT ET Street for that matter. I don't drive my car very often so if I get ~5000 miles out of a set of rears, that like 2 years of driving. They will be old and hard by then anyways and due for replacement.

325*.45 = 146.25 = 5.76"(2) + 17" = 28.52"
275*.50 = 137.50 = 5.41"(2) + 15" = 25.82"
295*.45 = 132.75 = 5.23"(2) + 17" = 27.46"
335*.35 = 117.25 = 4.62"(2) + 17" = 26.24"
315*.35 = 110.25 = 4.34"(2) + 17" = 25.68"
- Mickey Thompson weight - 31lbs per tire
- Hoosier weight - 26lbs per tire
345*.30 = 103.50 = 4.07"(2) + 19" = 27.14"

for comparison:
Stock Z06 Rears - 325/30R19 = 26.68"

LS7 BUD

The M&H 325/45/17 is 27.2" tall when mounted on the car...

old motorhead

Flat plate area. That's where it's at. That's how many square inches of your tire that's actually in contact with the pavement. You can influence that with tire width, tire height, and inflation psi. Tire height can influence your drive ratio too. Saying one particular size is better than another is just part of the equation. You need to look a little deeper than that.

Milan

Samesies

BT03mach-1

i use 275/40/17 hoosier dr's and hook from a dig and roll with a 200 shot on the street but im also under 700hp

turbotuner20v

325/45-17 M&H. I've gone through a few sets and love them. 900+whp

PRE-Z06

I'm not aware of a 275/45r17 as the OP listed, but the second number is the aspect ratio and does play a roll with the sidewall though so does the first number as the aspect ratio is a percentage of the width which means you can actually have more sidewall with a lower aspect ratio in some cases like in his case ie 335/35r17 vs 275/40r17 (which I believe is what he meant to say) as 35% of 335mm is 117.25mm and 40% of 275mm is 110mm, hope that helps. Dropping rim size is always a benefit as it moves the mass closer to the center of rotation while adding more sidewall, while just adding a taller tire handicaps torque multiplication by de-gearing. This may mean better acceleration because the car now hooks instead of spinning, but ultimately isn't the fastest as you have the best combo for that with the 26" tall tire and 15s

OP not sure what speed you roll race, but you might play with this calculator to see the difference if you were to swap to the ~2" taller tire...
http://www.f-body.org/gears/

ATLS2

How tall do they sit on the car?

realcanuk

On my car they sit at just over 27 inches on Weld 17 x 11's.

turbotuner20v

I've never measured, but ~27.2" sounds like what other see.

dekan513

with a 11" rim u need a 315 or so. 275 is a bit of a stretch

PRE-Z06

They may spread out on a wider wheel, but 28.5" is what they calculate to be...28" with an 11" wheel per M&H.

LSOHOLIC

The key to traction is rollout, with width be a close second. The more rubber layed down per revolution wins !!

A 30"x9" slick provides more traction than a 26"x12".

Fact......