croatbob

car as it sits. 755rwhp mast 305 heads, 6psi ysi a&a kit. kooks 1 7/8ths, boosta pump. want to get it into 4 digits and want to start collect bits n pieces for the build as its easier to fork out dribs n drabs then 20k upfront here is my shopping list. feel free to add what u think is required

ecs pulley upgrade with 10 rib direct drive (20 psi +/-)
ecs stage 2 fuel system
id 2000 injectors
alky meth kit
rpm level 6 tr6060
dyad center force clutch
erl 6 bolt 427 short block - HT at redline will do the build

this be enough to crack the 1k mark? anything i mite want to add?

robert miller

Put the 2.75 pulley on that ysi head unit it should push out 1050 to the wheels plus will spin that unit to it's limit.I just hope you have a good tuner.

Unreal

Driveshaft, guibos, differential, new cam, 2nd bov, inlet to blower, gauges, axles, and the list goes on.

croatbob

what boost wud a 2.75 supply?

EX1

What has been the weak point of the OEM Z06 driveshaft and diff?

C6 Curtis

+1 he will be fine with the stock drive shaft/diff and axels/c5's unless he plans on going to the dragstrip all the time to do 5k launches.

-Curtis

Redline Motorsports

Just need a short block and more boost....you got the MAST heads so a 6 bolt RHS block and 17-19 lbs on blower will do it.

We just made this on 15-16 lbs on pump gas with twins...



We do this build often!

Howard

croatbob

once a year trip to the strip maybe. its a streeter not a drag car. axles the only thing id prob upgrade

Unreal

I've seen guibos go out on 700hp cars. I think while it is apart it is a good thing to upgrade. You can take your chance, they may last 10k or 30k but at 1000+ I would expect their life to be limited. That being said, if you just want a 1000rwhp dyno chart, then your list is just fine. If you want 1000rwhp that you can go beat on and not worrying about, then the other parts start to add up.

croatbob

U back on the rhs from erl blocks these days? I'm just waiting on this t56 to retire ungraciously b4 my car ends up on a tilt tray at your doorstep for a full build.

Corvettinator

Bob, IIRC you are already beyond your traction limits. Are you planning on dropping your rear wheel size and adding some MT Streets?

croatbob

running et streets at the mo. 345-35-18

Unreal

It will still just spin those. And with no plans to go race it/etc it sounds like you just want the dyno numbers/etc.

croatbob

as stated. tuff streeter and once a year drag meet. no trailer queen here

DOUG @ ECS

I think you can make 1000rwhp, but all I'll add to that is be careful what you wish for. Or at least be fully aware of what you are getting yourself into.

croatbob

i grew up around tuff cars and owned more than i can remember. damn even had a 10 sec streeter back in the late 90s. respect the power or get bitten i always say. id never chase it if it was my first rodeo! 36 yrs old now. good looking out tho

Bruce954

Do you already have a TR6060 in your car? If so you might want to wait and hurt something before going built. Everything I hear from the bigger power guys in dallas is that a stock unopened transmission will last just as long as a "built" one.

croatbob

t56. its an 07 z06. as soon as the clutch or box lets go then i will do the full build. no point touching the combo now sinces it reliable and going strong

Unreal

My stock t56 is living a nice life so far at 1000+rwhp. Then again I'm swapping these headers/etc then putting a big pulley and dropping it down to 750-800rwhp. Even on the 345ET streets traction is limited. 750+ is a solid 9 second car. 1000+ can run into the 8s. For a "tuff" street car I wouldn't touch anything and just enjoy it as is, slowly swapping things.

If anyone wants a 1000+rwhp car they can buy mine, and I'll build a 600rwhp automatic that IMO would be just as fun.

breecher_7

Would you quit being such a *****!!!!