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A little tip for C6's that run hot

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Old 04-17-2014, 01:48 PM
  #61  
Unreal
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Originally Posted by wolf8218
What about the original post stating that the original ground wiring for the fan motors is not sufficient and wouldn't power the motors to 100% capacity?
Once you are moving past ~35 or 45mph fans are turned off. So wiring in fans to be on wouldn't do anything. They are restriction once you hit those speeds. Now if you wanted a switch to just turn them on high when you are not moving or stuck in traffic then buy a relay and wire it in but you wanted something for driving hard and I would assume driving hard means keeping the car in motion.
Old 04-17-2014, 02:13 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Once you are moving past ~35 or 45mph fans are turned off. So wiring in fans to be on wouldn't do anything. They are restriction once you hit those speeds. Now if you wanted a switch to just turn them on high when you are not moving or stuck in traffic then buy a relay and wire it in but you wanted something for driving hard and I would assume driving hard means keeping the car in motion.
Ah ok. I understand your answer and I should rephrase my question.

I would like to be able to provide full power to the fans while stopped in traffic or between runs, as well as fix the design flaw.

So I should run a manually switched/thermostat relay ground to the starter or battery?
Old 04-17-2014, 02:44 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by wolf8218
Ah ok. I understand your answer and I should rephrase my question.

I would like to be able to provide full power to the fans while stopped in traffic or between runs, as well as fix the design flaw.

So I should run a manually switched/thermostat relay ground to the starter or battery?
I do this using the Casper fan switch with no problems. Works great.
Old 04-17-2014, 04:47 PM
  #64  
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I'm confused now with the multiple options and the original poster where Haltech ECU should be part of the game.

So for any C6 with factory PWM module, he can use the painless kit only and he can adjust the tune to %100 fan desired,, then he will run the fan at its max power and he will be hear it?

the other option is to purchase the casper fan switch, and you will have a switch to run the max power of the fans?
Am I correct??

I'm running hot with dual fan upgrade and dewitts radiator,, the damn intercooler and hot weather here is not helping at all
Old 04-17-2014, 05:10 PM
  #65  
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Run it to the alternator or battery, whatever is easier.

Your just using the ecu or a thermostat switch to trip a relay to give the fans full power. So they will be on/off not adjustable. Heck, just to test it you could wire them up direct and just drive around/idle and see if it fixes any issues before going deeper if needed.
Old 04-17-2014, 05:39 PM
  #66  
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Ok thanks,,, so the wires will not ended up burned or something because of running them at max power/current ?
Old 04-17-2014, 06:05 PM
  #67  
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As long as you use the correct gauge and connections it shouldn't. They will only draw whatever they can take unless their is a short or something.
Old 04-17-2014, 06:23 PM
  #68  
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I really think the Casper switch is the best route. It allows you to run the fans at full or half speed and it just connects into the factory wiring with no issues. I have run mine at the track at full speed for long periods of time and have never had problems with the plug heating up or burning, as some do.
Old 04-17-2014, 06:54 PM
  #69  
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Great info.
Old 04-21-2014, 12:21 PM
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It looks like if you just use larger gauge wiring and the solid state relays per fan (proper ground and hot) then you will achieve full power of your fans. With the stock setup you could not achieve this because of GMs restrictions and smaller gauge wiring with crappy plugs burning up/melting since the fans were being programmed to run at longer periods of time.
Old 04-21-2014, 10:02 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by realcanuk
I really think the Casper switch is the best route. It allows you to run the fans at full or half speed and it just connects into the factory wiring with no issues. I have run mine at the track at full speed for long periods of time and have never had problems with the plug heating up or burning, as some do.
Me too, but Ill be keeping an eye on the plug now that I know there has been problems
Old 06-12-2014, 02:06 AM
  #72  
ANGRY Z
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In case anyone was looking for this...
Old 06-12-2014, 07:47 AM
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Thanks for sharing Doug.As usual the top Corvette guy solves the problem.
Old 06-12-2014, 12:46 PM
  #74  
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I was hoping bthat someone would post a pic of how they wired the relay using the ecm control.
Old 06-12-2014, 01:25 PM
  #75  
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I have been running the Cartek fan module for over 8 years, it makes the fan come on at start up then when it reaches 120 it shuts down and comes back on at 181 100% then goes down to 178 shuts off then back on at 181, I have run 5 back to back hot laps in a mater of minutes and still 181 at the starting line on each pass with around 500 rwhp NA and thats taking it to 7200 on the ship rpm
Old 06-12-2014, 08:49 PM
  #76  
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I want to just run the stock fan between rounds at the drag strip. Is there a simple way to put a switch somewhere? Back when I used to race turbo Buicks there was a ground on top of the intake that was very easy to just put a switch to a ground and it would run as desired.
Old 06-13-2014, 12:38 AM
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jon6.0
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Originally Posted by Thomasmoto
I want to just run the stock fan between rounds at the drag strip. Is there a simple way to put a switch somewhere? Back when I used to race turbo Buicks there was a ground on top of the intake that was very easy to just put a switch to a ground and it would run as desired.
I believe that's what the Caspers or Cartek kit does.

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Old 06-13-2014, 12:40 AM
  #78  
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I need to look at my wiring. I have a Dewitt's cut down radiator and dual fans. I hit 245F stuck in Phoenix traffic(106F outside) the other day with the AC on. I did have the upper shroud off, but I wouldn't think that would matter in stop and go traffic.
Old 06-13-2014, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by jon6.0
I need to look at my wiring. I have a Dewitt's cut down radiator and dual fans. I hit 245F stuck in Phoenix traffic(106F outside) the other day with the AC on. I did have the upper shroud off, but I wouldn't think that would matter in stop and go traffic.
Your temp got to 245 and it didn't do any damage and your a/c was still working?
Old 06-13-2014, 10:42 AM
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I've seen 255-260. 245 isn't that bad, car isn't happy though.

Welcome to low compression blower *******ess with cut down radiator and fans. I think stock radiator/fans cool better than the combo we have. Shroud won't make much if any difference.


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