C6 Z06 TVS2300, e force or ls9 swap? What's the best option. Goal 700whp.
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
C6 Z06 TVS2300, e force or ls9 swap? What's the best option. Goal 700whp.
I currently have a 2006 C6 Z06 with a black panther (large) cam, lg 1 3/4 headers with hi flow cats, k & n intake, borla atak/akropavic exhaust, 160 t stat.
The car puts down 540whp in Las Vegas. I love the car, but I want a twin screw supercharger. I love the sound, and feel of them.
My immediate goal would be 600+ whp, and eventually turn it up to 750+ whp.
I want my car to be reliable and daily drive able. I have a LOT of options but I want to put mods on the car accordingly to be consistent with these goals.
I realize the ls7 is not a great motor for boost, would it be a motor that could handle a lot of power now and reinforce later for the 750+whp goal or is that unrealistic?
Should I buy a used ls9 and swap it in then sell my ls7?
Or even get a used ls3 boosted??
Or completely have a new motor because these options will have a dead end?
What should my mod list look like?
I want to be realistic and be able to keep upgrading the car towards my goal rather than just drop $20,000 on it all at once. I'm in no rush as it is a long term goal.
I would love to keep my ls7 and upgrade it as necessary for my power level but I don't know enough about boost with the ls7 to know what I need to change and if is cost effective to do rather than starting with something completely different.
Should I do heads?
Change compression?
2" headers?(worried about codes with these)
And the TVS 2300 seems to be the most capable power wise for 750+whp, I like the e force as well but I heard it is quiet(I want the sc to SCREAM), and I haven't seen any over 700whp so far. I have seen many tvs over that.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The car puts down 540whp in Las Vegas. I love the car, but I want a twin screw supercharger. I love the sound, and feel of them.
My immediate goal would be 600+ whp, and eventually turn it up to 750+ whp.
I want my car to be reliable and daily drive able. I have a LOT of options but I want to put mods on the car accordingly to be consistent with these goals.
I realize the ls7 is not a great motor for boost, would it be a motor that could handle a lot of power now and reinforce later for the 750+whp goal or is that unrealistic?
Should I buy a used ls9 and swap it in then sell my ls7?
Or even get a used ls3 boosted??
Or completely have a new motor because these options will have a dead end?
What should my mod list look like?
I want to be realistic and be able to keep upgrading the car towards my goal rather than just drop $20,000 on it all at once. I'm in no rush as it is a long term goal.
I would love to keep my ls7 and upgrade it as necessary for my power level but I don't know enough about boost with the ls7 to know what I need to change and if is cost effective to do rather than starting with something completely different.
Should I do heads?
Change compression?
2" headers?(worried about codes with these)
And the TVS 2300 seems to be the most capable power wise for 750+whp, I like the e force as well but I heard it is quiet(I want the sc to SCREAM), and I haven't seen any over 700whp so far. I have seen many tvs over that.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#3
Team Owner
He said twin screw. Any of them then add a 50-100shot to get to 700+.
#4
Melting Slicks
#5
Burning Brakes
The stock LS7 is fine for boost, Just make sure you get the head problem fixed and you're good to go. If you want a screaming SC get the whipple and add a hood for it.
-Curtis
-Curtis
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Thats awesome. Do you have a full mods list? including header size type cats etc?
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
What head problem? Can you be more specific? When the cam was put in they replaced a few other things
#10
Le Mans Master
I just bought the car last week, with the mods already done I'll post more if you want when I grab the build sheet.
Ragin Racing LS7 blower cam (mild - don't have the specs, I need to get with Randy to get those)
Ported/Polished heads with new exhaust valves
Lifters/push rods/valve springs
Whipple 2.9 Polished with RK Hood
Ragin Racing fuel system + the MSD (similar to BAP) that came with the Whipple kit
American Racing long tube headers 1 7/8 I believe (I'll double check, but I know they aren't 2 inch) with high flow cats
Borla exhaust
Halltech CAI (Appears to be a killerbee) with beehive shroud
Some other mods I'm sure I'm missing... I believe she is sitting right around 5lbs of boost currently. Dyno tuned and built by Ragin Racing in Scott, LA. Threw down 704 in 98 degree humid Louisiana weather.
The head problem he is referring to is the exhaust valve (or exhaust valve guide, depending on who you ask) wearing and getting out of tolerance, causing it to eventually break/drop. If it does so, you will have a new way to drain oil out of your block. Probably happens to less than 10% of LS7s, but better safe than sorry.
Ragin Racing LS7 blower cam (mild - don't have the specs, I need to get with Randy to get those)
Ported/Polished heads with new exhaust valves
Lifters/push rods/valve springs
Whipple 2.9 Polished with RK Hood
Ragin Racing fuel system + the MSD (similar to BAP) that came with the Whipple kit
American Racing long tube headers 1 7/8 I believe (I'll double check, but I know they aren't 2 inch) with high flow cats
Borla exhaust
Halltech CAI (Appears to be a killerbee) with beehive shroud
Some other mods I'm sure I'm missing... I believe she is sitting right around 5lbs of boost currently. Dyno tuned and built by Ragin Racing in Scott, LA. Threw down 704 in 98 degree humid Louisiana weather.
The head problem he is referring to is the exhaust valve (or exhaust valve guide, depending on who you ask) wearing and getting out of tolerance, causing it to eventually break/drop. If it does so, you will have a new way to drain oil out of your block. Probably happens to less than 10% of LS7s, but better safe than sorry.
I'm sure that bad girl is a handful now. Wonder what another 4ish psi would be like....
Are you using meth?
Last edited by old motorhead; 05-31-2013 at 06:43 AM.
#12
Le Mans Master
The 295/45 17 eT streets will be way better than any 19 tire, but I still have trouble hooking them completely. It may be the track where I run more so than the tires. 1.88 is the best 60' so far. 305/30 19 R888's did no better than 2.2.
To the OP, you're not going to have much blower noise unless you go with a rear drive Maggie with the cogged belt on the rear pulleys. They sound pretty mean, but the sound never goes away. If the engine is running, it's making the music. Haven't heard one from inside the car, but guys that have owned them said that it wasn't bothersome.
To the OP, you're not going to have much blower noise unless you go with a rear drive Maggie with the cogged belt on the rear pulleys. They sound pretty mean, but the sound never goes away. If the engine is running, it's making the music. Haven't heard one from inside the car, but guys that have owned them said that it wasn't bothersome.
#13
Melting Slicks
You went from a $5k-$9k option with the 2300 and supporting parts to a $25k+ option of LS9 and supporting parts.
If you want a built motor just buy a bottom end for the LS7. My LS7 is over 1000rwhp easily with decent rotating assembly etc.
You're also doing it backwards if you want a big HP number and you're trying it with the wrong application. PD blowers are about power under the curve and instant torque where the centri blowers make peak HP with a linear power delivery. You're also doing it way wrong with an e-force as they are way out of their efficiency at that level.
If you want a built motor just buy a bottom end for the LS7. My LS7 is over 1000rwhp easily with decent rotating assembly etc.
You're also doing it backwards if you want a big HP number and you're trying it with the wrong application. PD blowers are about power under the curve and instant torque where the centri blowers make peak HP with a linear power delivery. You're also doing it way wrong with an e-force as they are way out of their efficiency at that level.
#14
Le Mans Master
Not to get back to the OP's question....but...you need to consider what you're expecting vs what is reasonably doable. Yes, you can do 800 rwhp with a Maggie TVS 2300. It's been done plenty of times. Good idea? I don't think so. If you're looking at 650 to 700 wheel, it's a great choice for a street ride. When you get over those numbers, the bigger Whipple is a better choice if you're wanting a p/d blower. Much over 750, and you're in turbo or centri neighborhood.
At higher boost/power levels, centri's benefit big time from meth introduced after the blower compresses the air. It cools the compressed air big time vs meth introduced pre blower on a p/d blower. It's comical how some speak about how much more "efficient" the centri's are. At mild boost, if you take the meth away, there's not much difference.
If there was an easy way to introduce meth evenly, down stream of a modern p/d blower, their efficiency would be similar. There isn't. It's been tried. Also comical when folks compare modern centri's with 10 year old p/d blowers. I really like the "you can fry a hamburger" on a p/d blower after a run. Fact is that an intercooled modern p/d blower is probably the coolest thing under the hood after a run (dyno or quarter mile). It has it's own radiator. Put your hand on a centri blower after a dyno or quarter mile run. It's hot. Compress air, it heats up....no matter how you do it. A belt driven blower takes power to compress air. Plain and simple. Not for a moment saying anyone's centri or p/d rig is better or worse than another.
Rant over
At higher boost/power levels, centri's benefit big time from meth introduced after the blower compresses the air. It cools the compressed air big time vs meth introduced pre blower on a p/d blower. It's comical how some speak about how much more "efficient" the centri's are. At mild boost, if you take the meth away, there's not much difference.
If there was an easy way to introduce meth evenly, down stream of a modern p/d blower, their efficiency would be similar. There isn't. It's been tried. Also comical when folks compare modern centri's with 10 year old p/d blowers. I really like the "you can fry a hamburger" on a p/d blower after a run. Fact is that an intercooled modern p/d blower is probably the coolest thing under the hood after a run (dyno or quarter mile). It has it's own radiator. Put your hand on a centri blower after a dyno or quarter mile run. It's hot. Compress air, it heats up....no matter how you do it. A belt driven blower takes power to compress air. Plain and simple. Not for a moment saying anyone's centri or p/d rig is better or worse than another.
Rant over
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
I see what you're saying. So assuming I go with a tvs2300 magnasun/whipple blower, what should my mod list look like for each horsepower goal?
Also, 1 7/8 headers or 2"?
Also, 1 7/8 headers or 2"?
Not to get back to the OP's question....but...you need to consider what you're expecting vs what is reasonably doable. Yes, you can do 800 rwhp with a Maggie TVS 2300. It's been done plenty of times. Good idea? I don't think so. If you're looking at 650 to 700 wheel, it's a great choice for a street ride. When you get over those numbers, the bigger Whipple is a better choice if you're wanting a p/d blower. Much over 750, and you're in turbo or centri neighborhood.
At higher boost/power levels, centri's benefit big time from meth introduced after the blower compresses the air. It cools the compressed air big time vs meth introduced pre blower on a p/d blower. It's comical how some speak about how much more "efficient" the centri's are. At mild boost, if you take the meth away, there's not much difference.
If there was an easy way to introduce meth evenly, down stream of a modern p/d blower, their efficiency would be similar. There isn't. It's been tried. Also comical when folks compare modern centri's with 10 year old p/d blowers. I really like the "you can fry a hamburger" on a p/d blower after a run. Fact is that an intercooled modern p/d blower is probably the coolest thing under the hood after a run (dyno or quarter mile). It has it's own radiator. Put your hand on a centri blower after a dyno or quarter mile run. It's hot. Compress air, it heats up....no matter how you do it. A belt driven blower takes power to compress air. Plain and simple. Not for a moment saying anyone's centri or p/d rig is better or worse than another.
Rant over
At higher boost/power levels, centri's benefit big time from meth introduced after the blower compresses the air. It cools the compressed air big time vs meth introduced pre blower on a p/d blower. It's comical how some speak about how much more "efficient" the centri's are. At mild boost, if you take the meth away, there's not much difference.
If there was an easy way to introduce meth evenly, down stream of a modern p/d blower, their efficiency would be similar. There isn't. It's been tried. Also comical when folks compare modern centri's with 10 year old p/d blowers. I really like the "you can fry a hamburger" on a p/d blower after a run. Fact is that an intercooled modern p/d blower is probably the coolest thing under the hood after a run (dyno or quarter mile). It has it's own radiator. Put your hand on a centri blower after a dyno or quarter mile run. It's hot. Compress air, it heats up....no matter how you do it. A belt driven blower takes power to compress air. Plain and simple. Not for a moment saying anyone's centri or p/d rig is better or worse than another.
Rant over
#16
Le Mans Master
I think Chance42 has you a pretty sound blueprint to follow. I'm not a big meth fan with p/d blowers. On an LS7, with anything over very mild boost, I'd sure add it though. You won't get the big cool down the centri and turbo boys enjoy, but the extra octane might save yo' a$$. Later this year, I hope to be putting one together very similar to his. Big cubes..instant boost..lite car..handles like a dream..yeah baby. I know it won't stop and turn quite as well as a ZR1, but I'm guessing you can make it up on the straights
#18
Le Mans Master
I would have thought your boost would be higher with the power you're making. Stock LS7 heads flow like crazy though. Maybe they're so good ported that, with a good blower cam and that many cubic inches, there's just not much restriction there. If you're really at only 5psi, 800 at the wheels won't be too hard to do.
#20
Le Mans Master
Just going to throw in my 2 cents here.
700 RWHP on 5 lbs boost in 98 degree humid weather ? Has to be some kind of record. Very nice numbers.
The whole PD /Centri IAT thing is so overblown. With centri's, half the people say they run under ambient, and then there are camaro guys saying they hit 160 to 200 when running the quarter. I am convinced it is really the difference in sensor placement that messes with the comparison.
I havent gotten to the track this year yet but on 6 back to back dyno pulls while tuning, I saw a max IAT of 122 degrees. Last year with a slightly different setup and less power, I was seeing 120 to 140 at the track depending on the variable of weather, and the IAT at the start of the runs.
Unless you are a serious track junkie, or going for some kind of record times, any of the available options will have traction issues and give you more power than you can safely use on the street.
I prefer PD because I like the power delivery better but its a personal choice and all great options for a fun driver.
700 RWHP on 5 lbs boost in 98 degree humid weather ? Has to be some kind of record. Very nice numbers.
The whole PD /Centri IAT thing is so overblown. With centri's, half the people say they run under ambient, and then there are camaro guys saying they hit 160 to 200 when running the quarter. I am convinced it is really the difference in sensor placement that messes with the comparison.
I havent gotten to the track this year yet but on 6 back to back dyno pulls while tuning, I saw a max IAT of 122 degrees. Last year with a slightly different setup and less power, I was seeing 120 to 140 at the track depending on the variable of weather, and the IAT at the start of the runs.
Unless you are a serious track junkie, or going for some kind of record times, any of the available options will have traction issues and give you more power than you can safely use on the street.
I prefer PD because I like the power delivery better but its a personal choice and all great options for a fun driver.