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Fuel gauge not working after Eliminator pump!

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Old 05-12-2011, 07:10 PM
  #41  
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UPDATE -------------------

I would start with this question for everyone having this HOB aremotive eliminator pump and run into these conditions:
How much time did you run you FI car with coolant temp 110c and outside temp 38c and more than 40min continuously without stopping?

What I experienced is that aeromotive eliminator pump is not capable of running more than 40min continuesly in normal conditions driving (no racing no high rpm at all!!)!! Maybe it is proven that pump can support 1400hp! but not tested to run continuesly!

Im running on pump gas 91...

--------------------

It took me 3 hours to get my car from the shop to arrive home... normally I would take half an hour!! the reason is the fuel pump/fuel lines are getting hot and fuel pressure drops then you would enyoy stopping sideways to cool it down!
I stopped three times in order to make it home ..... I was runnig full tanks! and arrived home with 3/4 of the tank.

Can any one tell me if he run successfully in these conditions without problem ?? so I would say it is the shop installation error..?

AlthoughI don't have codes right now and the fuel gauge is working properly + we set the voltage at 8.5 as recommended by aeromotive,,car starts fine
running at almost 45psi
full voltage running somthing near 80psi!!



-------------------------

I would request from HOB and aeromotive to return this fuel system or help me solving it ASAP~~ if there is a problem with installation which I think nothing is wrong everything is checked for 3rd time!

I need to run my car in peace after 4-6 month waiting to finish my project!! cannot believe the fuel system issues is stopping me any advise gentlemen???

Last edited by WHITE_SHARK; 05-12-2011 at 07:15 PM.
Old 05-12-2011, 07:20 PM
  #42  
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13/5/2011
Here is a video of pressure dropping at 20 psi and high voltage not exceeding 30psi (after the drop is happening and overheating the pump!) and caple of pics:

http://www.2shared.com/photo/JhEcYODm/IMG_0514.html
http://www.2shared.com/photo/HvhHgxvX/IMG_0521.html
http://www.2shared.com/photo/O0nrUurl/IMG_0525.html
http://www.2shared.com/photo/-x3cgZDX/IMG_0526.html
http://www.2shared.com/video/6NX9QHCA/IMG_0527.html
Old 05-12-2011, 07:25 PM
  #43  
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Notice that in the video when I got the overheating suituation the fuel pump became very noisy like runnig full voltage all the time!

but its sound areacceptable before the overheating suituation and with the speed controller in place..
Old 05-12-2011, 08:53 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by WHITE_SHARK

AlthoughI don't have codes right now and the fuel gauge is working properly + we set the voltage at 8.5 as recommended by aeromotive,,car starts fine
running at almost 45psi
full voltage running somthing near 80psi!!
your doing it wrong.

switching to full voltage your psi should only increase 2-3psi at most. you have the FRP set wrong!

do this.

run pump at full speed, set psi with no vacuum line attached and engine running to 58psi. and dont adjust the FPR ever again!

now turn off the manual over-ride switch so it drops voltage again, you should still be seeing 58 psi. if not, then you need to turn up the voltage until it is at least close and the needle stops jumping around.

now hook up the vacuum line. rev the car to 3 or 4k rpm and then set the full voltage switch point.

you should be done.

oh and FYI, when i initially install my system, i broke one of the lines on the right side of the tank that are inside the tank. i patched it with jbweld. it was fine, until couple days ago, the jb weld let go and the system pumped all the fuel out of the left tank and into the right tank. it wouldn't run unless i put it another 3 gallons.

a trip the the dealership and 50 bucks for some new intake fuel lines and the next day, i had the car on jacks, tank out and back in, then off jacks in less than 4 hours. so what i've learned? e85 eats jbweld. lol

anyways, how are you lines routed? are then clamped to the exhaust or something? mine are routed down the rocker panel.

-Carl

p.s. pressure test the braided line that is coming off the fuel pump shaft. if its leaking then would cause fuel transfer and pressure issues.

p.s.s. where are you getting your power and ground from?

p.s.s.s. your car should not be running 110c! thats like 250f right? my car runs 170-185 and its 88F outside

Last edited by carlrx7; 05-12-2011 at 09:03 PM.
Old 05-12-2011, 09:48 PM
  #45  
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^^^^ WIN post!
Old 05-13-2011, 07:48 AM
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HI Carl,

I would check that with the shop owner he did all the work... I was out of town and just received my car yesterday... and I hope I didn't I'm almost crying

Anyway, we will do what you recommended and see if this helps the overheating suituation,, but can you answer my question, have you run on the pump for over 40 minutes successfully ? maybe the weather is nto good here,,, maybe the pump is defective as I see Aeromotive is replacing it for some customers..
Also,, I'm gettins PS and emails stating that this pump for DRAG Race only and not intended to be used on streets but they will not admit that...

I hope Aermotive can do a clear statment on this...


---------------

Outside temp is like 100F and my car running 230F (with Dewitts radiator + SPAL dual fan + 160 T-sat programmed!) but cannot be helped with stop and go suituations!

Last edited by WHITE_SHARK; 05-13-2011 at 07:50 AM.
Old 05-13-2011, 09:53 AM
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i have driven my car 2 hours to the drag strip, let it cool for 30 mins, then made a couple passes, and then drive 2 more hours home. the system is reliable, and the kit on my car proves it.

-Carl
Old 05-13-2011, 10:24 AM
  #48  
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230*F still sounds pretty freagin hot to me.. While my car wasn't anywhere close to what you probably have performance wise, I could sit in 100* stop and go traffic with the AC on and not break 200 if I had recently cleaned all the debris from the radiator.

Not saying that's your problem.. but does everyone else think that temp is normal, even for 100* outside?
Old 05-13-2011, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
230*F still sounds pretty freagin hot to me.. While my car wasn't anywhere close to what you probably have performance wise, I could sit in 100* stop and go traffic with the AC on and not break 200 if I had recently cleaned all the debris from the radiator.

Not saying that's your problem.. but does everyone else think that temp is normal, even for 100* outside?
If you have an intercooler blocking your radiator, it can happen.
Old 05-13-2011, 05:24 PM
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took me an hour to get home today, 88F outside, coolant temp got up to 209. no fuel issues. i need to reinstall the 2.5 bar os to adjust the fan temp table.
Old 05-13-2011, 05:45 PM
  #51  
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^
^
the temp is ok and not extreme as in my suituation 100F outside temp and 230F coolant temp..

BUT I'm glad your setup is working good and as expected without any issues.. and believe me you are maybe the only one who reported this with the eliminator,,, al others having same issues here and there with the intank aeromotive pumps...

I'm not sure how to get to the shop tomorrow, don't want that same scenario occure again (stopping 3-4 times on the road and waiting to cool the fuel down!)

so I will tow the car and do what you recommended... one more try will not make me cry


--------------

regarding my coolant temp,,, with this hot weather here... I think it is ok as the intercooler is blocking the radiator ..so no air unless you are moving (the air hitting the black plastic peice underneath the car and it redirects the air to radiator!! very important!! I tried without this and the coolant keeps arising even when moving...)
Old 05-13-2011, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by WHITE_SHARK
^
BUT I'm glad your setup is working good and as expected without any issues.. and believe me you are maybe the only one who reported this with the eliminator,,, al others having same issues here and there with the intank aeromotive pumps...
Carlrx7 and a few others are having good results but Im getting major vapor lock with this pump. Im getting the whole fuel system ripped out on Monday. The shop that installed it has done three with this pump and two of them had to down grade to A1000 pumps to fix the problem.
Old 05-14-2011, 05:39 AM
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^
^
Did you setup everything correctly and as recommended?
Also what was the coolant tenp and outside temp when r having a vapor lock??

If everything setup correctly then maybe sine of the fuel pumps are defective!!
Also becarefull i read threads that some ppl also havibg same troubles with a1000.

Let me know what other fuel system u will put?

Thanks
Old 05-14-2011, 09:32 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by WHITE_SHARK
^
^
Did you setup everything correctly and as recommended?
Also what was the coolant tenp and outside temp when r having a vapor lock??

If everything setup correctly then maybe sine of the fuel pumps are defective!!
Also becarefull i read threads that some ppl also havibg same troubles with a1000.

Let me know what other fuel system u will put?

Thanks
I would think that the shop would know what there are doing. He told me that he as put in over seven of this system with three of them being eliminator pumps. All the ones with the eliminator pumps get vapor lock no mater if you you have a full tank of gas or under 3/4. One car the speed controller had to be changed twice because it was bad after that car still had the same problems . The fix for that customer was a A1000 pump.

Like I posted before Im just ripping it out and going back to stock. Im not dealing with this. I should have just left my stock fuel system with the Nitrous Outlets dedicated fuel system that I had first.

My coolent temps never went over 199 and driving it in Miami FL. I would start getting vapor lock with in 30 min of driving around.

As I posted before Aeormotive told the shop that the eliminator pump is a race pump and not to be used as a daily driver. I have spoken with other well known venders here and all say the samething. Its a bad a$$ pump only if you have a race car that comes of a trailer to the track or as a second external pump. Not as a in-line drop in tank.

Im not here to bash HOB im just sharing my experience with this pump. I have spoken to Jeremy about this before the system went on the car and he was helpful and I know he would make things right. (As you can see he has made a thread about updating the fuel system to make it better) But Im not going to be the test car. My car is not a shop car. I just wanted a reliable setup that its not living at the shop all the time. Im just ready to move on.
Old 05-15-2011, 01:32 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by GIO-305
I would think that the shop would know what there are doing. He told me that he as put in over seven of this system with three of them being eliminator pumps. All the ones with the eliminator pumps get vapor lock no mater if you you have a full tank of gas or under 3/4. One car the speed controller had to be changed twice because it was bad after that car still had the same problems . The fix for that customer was a A1000 pump.

Like I posted before Im just ripping it out and going back to stock. Im not dealing with this. I should have just left my stock fuel system with the Nitrous Outlets dedicated fuel system that I had first.

My coolent temps never went over 199 and driving it in Miami FL. I would start getting vapor lock with in 30 min of driving around.

As I posted before Aeormotive told the shop that the eliminator pump is a race pump and not to be used as a daily driver. I have spoken with other well known venders here and all say the samething. Its a bad a$$ pump only if you have a race car that comes of a trailer to the track or as a second external pump. Not as a in-line drop in tank.

Im not here to bash HOB im just sharing my experience with this pump. I have spoken to Jeremy about this before the system went on the car and he was helpful and I know he would make things right. (As you can see he has made a thread about updating the fuel system to make it better) But Im not going to be the test car. My car is not a shop car. I just wanted a reliable setup that its not living at the shop all the time. Im just ready to move on.
Before you go tearing it out of the car, take off the gas cap and take it for a drive. If you can't get it to repeat the symptoms its having right now then its a ventilation issue. We just figured this out on one other car we heard was having a vapor lock issue after long drives (over an hour). We had him drive with out the gas cap and he hasn't been able to repeat the issue.

We haven't decided exactly how we are going to address the issue but we will have a fix for those that may run into this problem. I find it interesting that some tanks can vent just fine and others can't.
Old 05-16-2011, 05:21 PM
  #56  
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^
^
^
Hi Jermey,

I'm taking off mine as well,,, tried to run without the gas cap,, still having the vapor lock affter 50 min!!

I guess this is also related to what the coolant temp and outside temp is + running duration

outside temp was 39c
coolant temp was raising from 104-114c

----------

I hope you can advertise that ELIMINATOR pump is ONLY for drag racing,,,,

I hope you can help me in returning back this pump (for half of its price!) or having me other solution that will work normally for daily use and not stopping me sideways to cool down!
Old 05-16-2011, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeremy@HOB
Before you go tearing it out of the car, take off the gas cap and take it for a drive. If you can't get it to repeat the symptoms its having right now then its a ventilation issue. We just figured this out on one other car we heard was having a vapor lock issue after long drives (over an hour). We had him drive with out the gas cap and he hasn't been able to repeat the issue.

We haven't decided exactly how we are going to address the issue but we will have a fix for those that may run into this problem. I find it interesting that some tanks can vent just fine and others can't.
I have made my mind up to put the car back to stock. Starting a new project.

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Old 05-16-2011, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeremy@HOB
Before you go tearing it out of the car, take off the gas cap and take it for a drive. If you can't get it to repeat the symptoms its having right now then its a ventilation issue. We just figured this out on one other car we heard was having a vapor lock issue after long drives (over an hour). We had him drive with out the gas cap and he hasn't been able to repeat the issue.

We haven't decided exactly how we are going to address the issue but we will have a fix for those that may run into this problem. I find it interesting that some tanks can vent just fine and others can't.
My tech had an issue with the ventilation of the passenger tank during the install. Took it down twice because whenever he would go to fill both tanks from the spout it would belch gas all over him. He tested the system with both tanks down on the ground and ran compressed air through all the lines. The driver's side tank vented fine but the passenger tank didn't. We could never figure out why but he installed a new check valve in the top of the tank and it fixed the problem.

Is the ventilation issue with the tanks creating the cavitation problem with the pumps?

Mine has worked flawlessly since the install was completed, with that ventilation issue corrected in the passenger tank.

Not sure if any of this is helpful but thought I would communicate my experience.

It does seem like a very nice setup but there are a lot of things that must come together to work as a whole.

My motor loves lots of fuel!!!
Old 05-16-2011, 09:52 PM
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running a supercharged 05 C6. Put the Aeromotive eliminator in and had the same issue as other reported, vapor lock and car would lose fuel pressure. Let it sit for 20 minutes and then things returned to normal for a bit, then the issue repeated itself.

My shop took out the eliminator and replaced it with the 1000, reset the voltage on the controller and things now work perfectly.

Only one issue, when the car in garaged overnight I come out to a faint gas smell. On the advice of Aeromotive and HOB we replace the traditional fuel lines with teflon ones. Did a smoke test, no leaks, pressurized the fuel pumps without turning them on, no issues. Replaced the ECM because the fuel tank vent would not activate when the engine shut off, and replaced the gas cap.

All to no avail. Still have a slight gas smell in the garage. No gas smell in the car when parked or when driving.

Trying to find the cause is like a needle in a haystack.

Any ideas?

Last edited by schilitj; 05-17-2011 at 07:56 AM.
Old 05-20-2011, 06:41 PM
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vapor lock and car would lose fuel pressure. Let it sit for 20 minutes and then things returned to normal for a bit, then the issue repeated itself.
Exactly what happening to me with the eliminator pump....

Right now,,, I'm working closley with Brett from Aeromotive tech support, he is very cooperative and we had couple of long calls to check if everything is setup correctly on my car. Everything seems to be fine and correct... also I don't have any vent. issue as I also got a vapor lock with the fuel cap off..

Anyway, we will try another solution and we are working on this... I will update this thread later...


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