Damn, so i guess the 305's wouldn't be the best idea on a Z06...............
I was excited for a minute.......lol
Ha ha, the thread went a little astray!
I think that it all depends on what you will be doing with the car. Are you going to daily drive the car? If so you may want to look at getting Nittos or PS2's. You would get some extra traction but not perfection at all, you'll still spin hard in 1st. But the tires would last longer.
Or is your car just a weekend warrior? If that's the case I would personally say the Hoosier R6's look like a winner. Like EdwardETraylorIII stated above, he can lay down 780rwhp in second, so in 1st 600rwhp would be easy to manage.
I think that it all depends on what you will be doing with the car. Are you going to daily drive the car? If so you may want to look at getting Nittos or PS2's. You would get some extra traction but not perfection at all, you'll still spin hard in 1st. But the tires would last longer.
Or is your car just a weekend warrior? If that's the case I would personally say the Hoosier R6's look like a winner. Like EdwardETraylorIII stated above, he can lay down 780rwhp in second, so in 1st 600rwhp would be easy to manage.
Well, the car isn't a daily driver. but it is driven a few times a week. The R6's seem like a good idea, but if i'm only giong to get like 4-5k out of them, i just can't swing it.
I'll probably go with the PS2's as they seem to be a better option than the nitto's.
Well, the car isn't a daily driver. but it is driven a few times a week. The R6's seem like a good idea, but if i'm only giong to get like 4-5k out of them, i just can't swing it.
I'll probably go with the PS2's as they seem to be a better option than the nitto's.
That's a good idea if you'll be driving it alot. Just learn how to peddle 1st and maybe 2nd. You could alway get an extra set of rear wheels and some R6's just in case of some needed spirited driving.
i heard mickey thompson has 345-35-18 comin out dec 15. these might be another good option. ive heard good stuff about the r888's. not sure which route im goin to do in spring yet
What others have said is accurate, however - no one has mentioned how well a Hoosier R6 in the 19" 345 format works. Go ahead and have grooves cut for them also!
You DO have to spin the tire over (say, in first), but then you can hook second and third... I can lay down 780 RWHP in second gear (9 Lbs of boost) and about 850 (10-11 Lbs of boost) in third with these tires......................
Roger Kraus racing in Nor Cal can sell you the tires with grooves cut a little cheaper than tirerack.com usually.
Let us know which route you take!
Can you really lay down all that power with the hoosiers? What psi u run ? I have the same tires and i cant grip second with 720rwhp, im running 28psi, maybe im not heating them up enough.
I have 600 rwhp. I am running michellin ps2 345's. I also have 4.10 gears. I have put the car sideways shifting into 4th gear at over 90 mph. I get a little better traction with drag radials. Cold temperatures....forget it...no traction. moderation when using the throttle is the secret to traction....unfortunately I tend to just smoke the tires
I have 600 rwhp. I am running michellin ps2 345's. I also have 4.10 gears. I have put the car sideways shifting into 4th gear at over 90 mph. I get a little better traction with drag radials. Cold temperatures....forget it...no traction. moderation when using the throttle is the secret to traction....unfortunately I tend to just smoke the tires
Damn, get rid of those 4:10's! Do you really like having a boosted car with traction issues 1st thru 4th????
I have 600 rwhp. I am running michellin ps2 345's. I also have 4.10 gears. I have put the car sideways shifting into 4th gear at over 90 mph. I get a little better traction with drag radials. Cold temperatures....forget it...no traction. moderation when using the throttle is the secret to traction....unfortunately I tend to just smoke the tires
I also have 600rwhp and I just got rid of my 410s. I liked the 410s with 425rwhp before the s/c, but didn't like 410s with 600rwhp. I switched back to 342 and I like it better. However, 373s would probably be perfect.
The fitment is not the same as the factory runflats of course. These are a little short in diameter and wider, so they would fit more ideally on 11 inch wide wheels instead of 10 inch. But they still look good. I run the factory runflats up front. The R888's get great traction in 1st in warm weather. But in cool/cold weather 1st gear will spin a bit. But once the tires are warmed up in cool/cold weather I can get excellent traction in 2nd gear for sure! These tires were my "for the time" fix for traction until I get a 19x12 wheel out back and put on a 345 R6 tire with wide body fenders. I diffenently was not going to spend the time and money on this much power with no traction in the first 3 gears!
Looks GREAT! How does the back feel? Planted or do you get some movement on the sidewalls? What pressure are you using?
What size fronts did you use?
I plan to use the R888, but can not decide on the size using stock C6 wheels.
1. 305 & 275/35
2. 295 & 255/35
I am leaning toward #2 since I am worried about going too big for the wheels. I will want to use at track. My car is already lowered and losing another 0.5-1 inch will literally put on the ground.
Looks GREAT! How does the back feel? Planted or do you get some movement on the sidewalls? What pressure are you using?
What size fronts did you use?
I plan to use the R888, but can not decide on the size using stock C6 wheels.
1. 305 & 275/35
2. 295 & 255/35
I am leaning toward #2 since I am worried about going too big for the wheels. I will want to use at track. My car is already lowered and losing another 0.5-1 inch will literally put on the ground.
Thanks. I have stock runflats up front. I use the 305 R888's because they are not as short in diameter compared to the 295's. Plus I wanted as much tire on the road as possible. and the shorter 295's would look funny and greatly change the speed/gear ratio.
I had Nitto 305/35/18 on my car prior to the widebody kit. They worked great for me and 520 RWHP on the streets but sucked at the track. I now have the Hoosier 345 and had them grooved so that I have alittle traction on the street. I will let you know how they handle 757 RWHP and the end of the week.
__________________
2005 Forged LS-7, Stage 3 heads, F1A Procharger, 8 Ribbed System, LEVEL 5 trans from RPM, 3200 Stall, Dynatech Headers, Magnaflows, Trans Cooler, Oil Cooler, DeWitts Radiator, DTE 3.42 Gears, Z-06 Rear Wide Body Kit, CCW SP500 Rims, Hoosier 345's, Z-06 Calipers and Rotors, Z-06 Sway Bars, LG World Challenge Hood, Lingenfelter Rollbar
DRIVEN WITH HAND CONTROLS !!!
So Brian and Andrew, you are both Running the Toyo R888 305-30-19 on 10 inch rims with no problems?? just making sure that you are running stock rear wheels. I hope that you are, because I'm very exited to have finally found some tires that I will be able to use without a wide booty kit. I have a 2008 C6 and I'm about to bump it up to about 550 RWHP but was very concerned about drivability with the lack of traction that I would have using the runflats. Both of you claim 600RWHP with no traction issues from 2nd gear up. This is great news to me because I've been hoping for Nitto DRs to come out in my stock sizes. Your tires are even better since they are about .5 inches wider than stock and only about 0.25" less in diameter. That should be close enough to stock to not cause any disfunction with TC and active handling when those are in use.... correct? the TOYOs also have a higher speed rating than the Nitto's.
How about using the stock tires in the front like you said, Brian?.... no handling issues with that? and how do the TOYOs behave at high speed? No instability? My Nitto DRs on the rear of my LS2 GTO had great linear traction, but felt kinda unstable at high speeds.
Oh, and I have to say that they look great on your car, Brian. Much better looking than stock tires.
I'd appreciate any more feedback you can provide on these tires. After reading your posts, I feel much better about my upcoming performance BOOST (A&A complete kit).
Nittos - Best traction in a straight line for every day tire high wear rating
PS2 - better than stock but not as good as in the invos in a straight line but better around the corners
R6's - That were grooved the best all around tire but they kick up alot of rocks and wear out around 4500's mile
Just my 2 cents...
Now... I have
Dail Driver - PS2's on 20/19's
Track - R6's on stock wheels
DR - M&H's on CCW's
I had Nitto 305/35/18 on my car prior to the widebody kit. They worked great for me and 520 RWHP on the streets but sucked at the track. I now have the Hoosier 345 and had them grooved so that I have alittle traction on the street. I will let you know how they handle 757 RWHP and the end of the week.
So Brian and Andrew, you are both Running the Toyo R888 305-30-19 on 10 inch rims with no problems?? just making sure that you are running stock rear wheels. I hope that you are, because I'm very exited to have finally found some tires that I will be able to use without a wide booty kit. I have a 2008 C6 and I'm about to bump it up to about 550 RWHP but was very concerned about drivability with the lack of traction that I would have using the runflats. Both of you claim 600RWHP with no traction issues from 2nd gear up. This is great news to me because I've been hoping for Nitto DRs to come out in my stock sizes. Your tires are even better since they are about .5 inches wider than stock and only about 0.25" less in diameter. That should be close enough to stock to not cause any disfunction with TC and active handling when those are in use.... correct? the TOYOs also have a higher speed rating than the Nitto's.
How about using the stock tires in the front like you said, Brian?.... no handling issues with that? and how do the TOYOs behave at high speed? No instability? My Nitto DRs on the rear of my LS2 GTO had great linear traction, but felt kinda unstable at high speeds.
Oh, and I have to say that they look great on your car, Brian. Much better looking than stock tires.
I'd appreciate any more feedback you can provide on these tires. After reading your posts, I feel much better about my upcoming performance BOOST (A&A complete kit).
Thanks for the kind words! I do have stock size in the back 19x10 wheels. The Toyos are a great replacement if you need more traction, but don't want a widebody yet or don't want to buy 18 inch wheels. I did have a few issues with active handling freaking out on me though. But when I got the car tuned I had him change the tire sizing in the computer and no more issues. If you do have issues with active handling, you can simply turn it off. As far as how the car handles, it handles fine. I've taken the car up to 190-200mph with no issues, so high speed handling is fine. The sidewalls are still stiff, so if you have a decent amount of psi in them corners and highspeed stuff still feel good. Hope this answers your questions!
Thanks for the kind words! I do have stock size in the back 19x10 wheels. The Toyos are a great replacement if you need more traction, but don't want a widebody yet or don't want to buy 18 inch wheels. I did have a few issues with active handling freaking out on me though. But when I got the car tuned I had him change the tire sizing in the computer and no more issues. If you do have issues with active handling, you can simply turn it off. As far as how the car handles, it handles fine. I've taken the car up to 190-200mph with no issues, so high speed handling is fine. The sidewalls are still stiff, so if you have a decent amount of psi in them corners and highspeed stuff still feel good. Hope this answers your questions!
Thank you for the info; I do have one more question, just to make sure your traction is what I am looking for.
At approx 70 MPH (this is a Z51 A6), stomping it in S mode.... you know,.... that is when the car thinks for a split second, revs up and downshifts into a wonderful surge forward.... Do your tires dig in, hook, and keep your car straight or would you have wheelspin, necessatating you to correct your line at that point?
My friend's newly installed A&A Vortec system makes the above activity dangerous for an average driver because, with the stock tires, it goes sideways instantly. I your car with 600RWhp stays straight doing the above, than I should be able to finish my project without worries.
The rear wide body kit was a consideration, but after adding it all up, it was going to be a very expensive addition to an already costly endeavor. I am also not convinced that wider automatically means better linear traction. Considering the weight of a car (and of course some other aspects, including suspension) there should be a point where wider would decrease your linear traction..... of course the question for our cars is.... where is that point? You could argue that the Z06 and the ZR1 indicate that wider is better, but those cars are really focused on race track handling (cornering) and that is a different issue.
Bottom line is that I'm hoping to attain safe enough traction to actually benefit from a serious boost in HP without widening the rear.
Thank you for the info; I do have one more question, just to make sure your traction is what I am looking for.
At approx 70 MPH (this is a Z51 A6), stomping it in S mode.... you know,.... that is when the car thinks for a split second, revs up and downshifts into a wonderful surge forward.... Do your tires dig in, hook, and keep your car straight or would you have wheelspin, necessatating you to correct your line at that point?
My friend's newly installed A&A Vortec system makes the above activity dangerous for an average driver because, with the stock tires, it goes sideways instantly. I your car with 600RWhp stays straight doing the above, than I should be able to finish my project without worries.
The rear wide body kit was a consideration, but after adding it all up, it was going to be a very expensive addition to an already costly endeavor. I am also not convinced that wider automatically means better linear traction. Considering the weight of a car (and of course some other aspects, including suspension) there should be a point where wider would decrease your linear traction..... of course the question for our cars is.... where is that point? You could argue that the Z06 and the ZR1 indicate that wider is better, but those cars are really focused on race track handling (cornering) and that is a different issue.
Bottom line is that I'm hoping to attain safe enough traction to actually benefit from a serious boost in HP without widening the rear.
You've just outlined why I would never buy an automatic... I rented a Hertz Covette Z-HZ for 3 days and had to return it on the 2nd day because I couldn't stand the way the automatic transmission made the car feel as though it was powered by a rubber band: I would stomp it to the floor, it would rev a little bit, wait, downshift, then finally rev up into some real power a second or two later.
My friend has a 788RWHP A4 Corvette; the only way he can stomp it is by downshifting the transmission himself with the gear selector; if he lets the car do it by itself, it will go sideways at any speed, all the way to 110MPH.
You've just outlined why I would never buy an automatic... I rented a Hertz Covette Z-HZ for 3 days and had to return it on the 2nd day because I couldn't stand the way the automatic transmission made the car feel as though it was powered by a rubber band: I would stomp it to the floor, it would rev a little bit, wait, downshift, then finally rev up into some real power a second or two later.
My friend has a 788RWHP A4 Corvette; the only way he can stomp it is by downshifting the transmission himself with the gear selector; if he lets the car do it by itself, it will go sideways at any speed, all the way to 110MPH.
My reason for describing the auto downshift like I did is to make sure to get a good idea of just how good the Toyo tires grab under the forces of sudden/ instantaneous acceleration, Like my 6A currently produces, compared to my stock tires.
I understand your preference for the manual and what you dislike about the auto, but I can control that issue very well with the paddle shifter. With the paddle, the transition in up or downshifts is much smoother and quicker than I can achieve with a manual. So, the paddle gives me the option to shift better than I, and the majority of people, can (and I've been driving manuals most of my life); in addition, I have the auto option for cruising, normal driving or even more aggressive play. Also, for those who don't know this,.... the speed of shifting gears with the paddle depends on how you are driving. If you are cruising the transition between gears is smooth and not as quick as it gets when you have your right foot down.
Under hard acceleration, the transmission plays along with you and gear changes are noting more than a change of tone, RPMs, and a forward surge.... all occurring in a split second. I am sure there is a shifting superman out there somewhere, who could possibly equal this tranny, but it isn't anyone I've ever seen in action. Of course you also have the benefit of giving the road, and everything else that needs it, your undivided attention (safer driving for me).
As for the rubber band feel,.... My tuner assured me that this transmission is very tunable and that he will tune it to downshift instantly (without the split second delay) so that it will shift similar to when using the paddles. If this works out as promised, using the sport mode will not produce the aggravation that you experienced in your rental car.
Before I go, I would like to stress that nothing I wrote was meant as a negative criticism of anyone's preference for a M6. The M6 is great and I enjoy driving a manual also (M6 GTO), but the new A6 is my personal preference..... especially because the vette is my daily driver.
Still hope to get that question on the TOYO R888 PROXES answered. The route my project will take somewhat depends on that.
Thank you for the info; I do have one more question, just to make sure your traction is what I am looking for.
At approx 70 MPH (this is a Z51 A6), stomping it in S mode.... you know,.... that is when the car thinks for a split second, revs up and downshifts into a wonderful surge forward.... Do your tires dig in, hook, and keep your car straight or would you have wheelspin, necessatating you to correct your line at that point?
My friend's newly installed A&A Vortec system makes the above activity dangerous for an average driver because, with the stock tires, it goes sideways instantly. I your car with 600RWhp stays straight doing the above, than I should be able to finish my project without worries.
The rear wide body kit was a consideration, but after adding it all up, it was going to be a very expensive addition to an already costly endeavor. I am also not convinced that wider automatically means better linear traction. Considering the weight of a car (and of course some other aspects, including suspension) there should be a point where wider would decrease your linear traction..... of course the question for our cars is.... where is that point? You could argue that the Z06 and the ZR1 indicate that wider is better, but those cars are really focused on race track handling (cornering) and that is a different issue.
Bottom line is that I'm hoping to attain safe enough traction to actually benefit from a serious boost in HP without widening the rear.
With the 305 Toyo's don't worry about going sideways at all. Only traction issues I may have is in 1st, and I may experience some spin in second if the tires are cold and the road is cold, but I wouldn't even call it spin more like a little slippage in 2nd at times. Once the tires warm up you won't have to worry about it. I can assure you that the Toyos are the only tire to go with if you want to keep the stock sized wheels and get traction! Otherwise like stated before, you'd have to get an 18inch wheel and tire combo or widebody and 19x12 (which is $$$).....
BTW the widebody and 19x12 or 19x13 wheel/tire combo out back is the best way to go for a street car. The more rubber that can meet the road the better. Especially if it's some sticky rubber like Hoosier R6 tires!
Here's a vid I made after the tune on my A&A kit. As you can tell in the video, I'm not getting sideways, I got good traction with the R888's. But this was in warmer weather, ie: warmer tire/road. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/6...LS2_181339.htm
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well how did they take the power
