I have a 2006 C6 A6 with a Vortech supercharger. My fuel pressure gauge have always showed about 70-72psi at idle.
My C6 have been parked for about 3 weeks since the weather have been bad here. I drove it today and I noticed that my fuel pressure guage is now showing 60psi at idle. Can someone tell me why my fuel pressure have dropped 10psi since I last drove it? Thanks in advance.
I am going to post in the Tech section to see if anyone have seen this problem.
Location: Brooklyn New York The DVL and the chicken sleep with the fishes....
Quote:
Originally Posted by csun213
I have a 2006 C6 A6 with a Vortech supercharger. My fuel pressure gauge have always showed about 70-72psi at idle.
My C6 have been parked for about 3 weeks since the weather have been bad here. I drove it today and I noticed that my fuel pressure guage is now showing 60psi at idle. Can someone tell me why my fuel pressure have dropped 10psi since I last drove it? Thanks in advance.
I have never seen fuel pressure as high as 70+lbs , 60 lbs is about right what you should have if you have a Boost-a-pump or secondary fuel pump .
Keep an eye on it and see if it continues to drop. What does it register at WOT? Sending units can go bad and register low pressure, you can try using another sending unit and attach a mech. gauge at the fuel rail.
Keep an eye on it and see if it continues to drop. What does it register at WOT? Sending units can go bad and register low pressure, you can try using another sending unit and attach a mech. gauge at the fuel rail.
I did not floor it since I was worried about breaking something however my fuel pressure was at 47psi at 0.7lb boost.
I did not floor it since I was worried about breaking something however my fuel pressure was at 47psi at 0.7lb boost.
I understand, and please have it check with your installer that's a significant drop from idle to boost. I normally drop a pound or two from idle to WOT. I didn't realize you weren't using a BAP up until now, I recall reading sometime ago you were looking to get one....maybe now it's a good time to add it to your FI setup with the irregularities in the fuel system on these cars, cheap insurance.
I understand, and please have it check with your installer that's a significant drop from idle to boost. I normally drop a pound or two from idle to WOT. I didn't realize you weren't using a BAP up until now, I recall reading sometime ago you were looking to get one....maybe now it's a good time to add it to your FI setup with the irregularities in the fuel system on these cars, cheap insurance.
I actually purchased one but was told that I did not need it by both Vortech and my tuner therefore I sold it at a loss. Never had any problem at all until today. Now the fuel pressure is 10 psi than before at idle.
I guess I will be purchasing a Boost a Pump again.
I guess I will be purchasing a Boost a Pump again.
Your gauge doesn't seem correct.
The OEM fuel pressure regulator is set to bleed out excess fuel after 60psi.
70psi at idle on a stock fuel sending unit is not right unless your fuel pressure regulator is bad which is Very unlikely. That is why I suspect a faulty gauge reading .
Like Brabus2 said, get a BAP it's good insurance.
I'm really surprised installers put blowers on customer cars without one.
I WOULD NEVER install a SC without one.
Some tuners/installers will cut corners by increasing the injector pulse width at higher RPM's instead of a BAP to try and make up for the decreased fuel pressure and volume that can barely meet the engines fuel demands.
That is not the optimum way to do it and you are playing with fire if your car is tuned like that.
Another thing to keep in mind is the fuel volume from your OEM pump will go down as you accumulate miles on your car from restriction in your fuel filter . That will starve your car of fuel at High RPMs when you need it most.
Your gauge doesn't seem correct.
The OEM fuel pressure regulator is set to bleed out excess fuel after 60psi.
70psi at idle on a stock fuel sending unit is not right unless your fuel pressure regulator is bad which is Very unlikely. That is why I suspect a faulty gauge reading .
Like Brabus2 said, get a BAP it's good insurance.
I'm really surprised installers put blowers on customer cars without one.
I WOULD NEVER install a SC without one.
Some tuners/installers will cut corners by increasing the injector pulse width at higher RPM's instead of a BAP to try and make up for the decreased fuel pressure and volume that can barely meet the engines fuel demands.
That is not the optimum way to do it and you are playing with fire if your car is tuned like that.
Another thing to keep in mind is the fuel volume from your OEM pump will go down as you accumulate miles on your car from restriction in your fuel filter . That will starve your car of fuel at High RPMs when you need it most.
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Good luck
Perry
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Thanks for your answer. I will purchase a Boost a Pump.
Does anyone know how to test if my fuel pressure guage is correct?
a mechanical gauge on the rail......i got a gauge and adapter to put on stock rail i will sell you if you interested. i got billit rails and running a diffrent setup now
Was told by Vortech that the fuel pressure gauge would need to be grounded to the engine. They said that I can check on the sending unit by discounting a white wire at the sending unit and put an Ohm meter between the white wire and the sending unit. If the reading is between 35-240 ohm then the sending unit is fine.
Can someone tell me where is the sending unit located? Thanks
Was told by Vortech that the fuel pressure gauge would need to be grounded to the engine. They said that I can check on the sending unit by discounting a white wire at the sending unit and put an Ohm meter between the white wire and the sending unit. If the reading is between 35-240 ohm then the sending unit is fine.
Can someone tell me where is the sending unit located? Thanks
Likely your sending unit is attach on the driver side fuel rail end by a 4 AN to 1/8" NPT adaptor.