Search feature is down currently so I wanted to see what kind of answers I could get.
I have experience with Vortech S/C systems on my Cobra Mustang. From some of the info I've read, it sounds like the installation of a ProCharger would be easier since it doesn't have to tap the oil pan -- my question though is how hard is it to change the oil in the ProCharger and how frequent? Also, is the installation actually easier or less involved that other centrifugal blower systems? One more -- how is the reliability on the ATI units? (when I was actively modding my Mustang, the ATI units constantly had quality issues, specifically bearing issues with the units which pushed me to my Vortech which I've had no issues with, but I like the ATI in that the oil pan wouldn't have to be tapped -- I'm looking for a unit that will be easy on, easy off).
On a side note also -- how are the stock bottom ends holding up to boost? Most of you swapping out the bottom end for a forged setup prior to boost?
Thanks for the help!
__________________ 08 Corvette Coupe
Bone Stock
---------------------------------------- 97 Cobra
Forged 4.6L DOHC
Vortech Supercharged (S-Trim - 10.5psi)
You can also draw the oil right out of the top of the head unit with a suction kit, such as what they do for marine use. The first oil change is at 500 miles, after that it is every 6,000 miles.
The stock bottom end will handle 7-8 psi of boost without any problems.
O-Ring Boss | Straight Thread: The O-ring Boss fitting is a modification of the male JIC where the beveled 37 nose has been removed and a groove has been machined between the threads and the hex in which an O-ring is seated. The female is a port which has been tapped to the proper straight thread size and chamfered at the port face to provide an O-ring seat. The seal is made when the O-ring is trapped between port chamfer, thread under-cut, and the male.
O-Ring Boss | Straight Thread: The O-ring Boss fitting is a modification of the male JIC where the beveled 37 nose has been removed and a groove has been machined between the threads and the hex in which an O-ring is seated. The female is a port which has been tapped to the proper straight thread size and chamfered at the port face to provide an O-ring seat. The seal is made when the O-ring is trapped between port chamfer, thread under-cut, and the male.
to each his own of course but i preffer the part c6dude is making. i have tried all the above methods except the drain and hose and i can tell you anyway that does not remove the oil from the bottom drain hole...ie sucking out the top....leaves some of the oil in the head unit..... i did this before i installed my piece just to see what was left.....
to each his own of course but i preffer the part c6dude is making. i have tried all the above methods except the drain and hose and i can tell you anyway that does not remove the oil from the bottom drain hole...ie sucking out the top....leaves some of the oil in the head unit..... i did this before i installed my piece just to see what was left.....
Needless to say it is impossible to leave any oil in the head unit with this drain setup and you dont need to pump it out. Doesn't get much easier than this, but if for some reason you prefer to pump it out..
yeah that what i ment. a drain from the bottom or the kit like i have. sucking it form the top leaves oil behind. only benifit to the setup i have is you can do it from under the hood...and i like an fittings and braided lines ...lol
Corvette Store
ATI Procharger Oil Change
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