I have my new APS TT setup and it is set to 6 lbs of boost on my manual 07 ls2 vert. DYNOTECH ENG. AND LINGENFELTER IN THIER TT SETUP put 15 50 mobile 1 synethic oil in for 'break in'. I live in NW Indiana near chicago, it's the dog days of summer now, so it is 90 deg. and oil is at 230 deg just driving around town.
MY QUESTIONS ARE
1. What weight oil do you recommend running in a STOCK ls2 with the TT setup. The owners manual specifically states NOT to run heavy weight oil in the LS2. How long should I run this 15-50 stuff, a thousand miles?? CARTEK recommends 10-40 for all their high power engines TT supercharger or built engine, period. What do you guys think??
2. Peter from APS any thoughts on your suggestions
3. sorry if this is a dumb question but, do you lose your catalytic converters when you go to the APS system on the vett, it seems to me like you do. Does the kit come with 'replacement' cats, I only ask because I want to make sure I will still pass emissions sniff test only, and I can kind of smell the fact that the cats are gone, not bad or overbearing, but there when you park it.
4. Is it normal to see 'smoke' coming out the dipstick tube when you stop at the gas station to check oil level (just a little) I don't know if steam or smoke is the correct description
5. car is a manual making 537 rwhp on 6 lbs of boost. DTE sets their APS systems to 9 lbs on stock ls2, do you think that is pushing it or should I raise my boost a little.
6. Thanks for your responses this is my first TT car and I am especially curious to know what wieght oil to run.
__________________
Anthony C. (AVETTE)
"All of life's most significant battles are waged within the self."
2007 Z51 6SPD ROADSTER, aps twin turbo, widebody conversion, motorcity mold carbon fiber heat extracting hood, ccw wheels and pilot sport sp2's, corsa sports, mods awaiting install: z06 brake kit, interior upgrades
While I don't run the APS TT, several of your questions give me cause for concern.
First, on the oil, a MULTI-viscosity oil will automatically change depending on the temperature it's running at. Therefore, you'd want something with a low first number and a higher second number, although I think 50 is too high. The LS2 doesn't like oil that thick, regardless of temperature. I'd run 40, max.
Second, if you made NO other mods to your setup (no cams, no headers, no pistons, etc.), you are asking for trouble if you raise your boost. Frankly, I think you are making a lot of power for no internal mods to your engine. And, I think you are making a lot of heat as well, which leads me to...
Third, you are running WAY too hot, and you've already melted your cats as a result. You shouldn't have to remove your cats for any FI application that's street legal. No street kit I've ever seen comes with "replacement" cats - those are very expensive. There is a guy in here with a s/c setup that ran way too hot and melted his as well.
It is NOT normal to see smoke/steam coming from the dipstick. You are running way too hot.
Example - on my Vortech s/c setup w/ stock internals and stock radiator, my oil temp hits about 218 or so, and my coolant temp has never gone over 205, even in 95+ degrees outside w/ high humidity.
That's the problem with turbos - they make a lot of heat, and the C6/LS2 isn't really made to deal with it.
I don't think 230 degrees is too hot for running around town, ac blasting away with an outside temp of 90-ish. What does it run at highway speed when the car has more air crossing the radiator? If your mods don't include a 160 degree t'stat, it should, along with reprograming the cooling fans to come on earlier. An oil cooler is also a good thing to have, too.
I have my new APS TT setup and it is set to 6 lbs of boost on my manual 07 ls2 vert. DYNOTECH ENG. AND LINGENFELTER IN THIER TT SETUP put 15 50 mobile 1 synthetic oil in for 'break in'. I live in NW Indiana near chicago, it's the dog days of summer now, so it is 90 deg. and oil is at 230 deg just driving around town.
MY QUESTIONS ARE
1. What weight oil do you recommend running in a STOCK ls2 with the TT setup. The owners manual specifically states NOT to run heavy weight oil in the LS2. How long should I run this 15-50 stuff, a thousand miles?? CARTEK recommends 10-40 for all their high power engines TT supercharger or built engine, period. What do you guys think??
2. Peter from APS any thoughts on your suggestions
3. sorry if this is a dumb question but, do you lose your catalytic converters when you go to the APS system on the vett, it seems to me like you do. Does the kit come with 'replacement' cats, I only ask because I want to make sure I will still pass emissions sniff test only, and I can kind of smell the fact that the cats are gone, not bad or overbearing, but there when you park it.
4. Is it normal to see 'smoke' coming out the dipstick tube when you stop at the gas station to check oil level (just a little) I don't know if steam or smoke is the correct description
5. car is a manual making 537 rwhp on 6 lbs of boost. DTE sets their APS systems to 9 lbs on stock ls2, do you think that is pushing it or should I raise my boost a little.
6. Thanks for your responses this is my first TT car and I am especially curious to know what wieght oil to run.
1. We've ran 15w/50 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil in the APS TT packages we build here with a 100% durability success rate to date, regardless if the engine is built specifically for a turbocharged application or if it's left stock. (so has LPE) We've built a lot of them, with a few custom built in-house applications exceeding 655 RWHP on only 12 psi.
2. ??
3. The standard, APS TT System does *NOT* include catalytic converters in any capacity what-so-ever and the installation of that standard kit requires the installer to completely remove the stock cats from the car entirely. This not only makes the car completely emission illegal, but also makes the car's exhaust stink like raw fuel... We don't like that; therefore, *ALL* of our custom, in-house built TT packages come complete with the catalysts included, along with other durability engine components that produce additional engine durability/power over the standard APS kit. The initial cost of our package is a bit more, but you get more- the car remains tailpipe emission legal when it leaves here and it doesn't stink out of the exhaust when completed.
4. No, ours doesn't, but then again, we've found a better solution to crankcase vapor evacuation than what the APS instructions state and all of our cars built here get that upgrade.
5. All of our 2006-2007 C6/LS2/M6 equipped vehicles we build here leave with approx. 575-585 RWHP @ 9psi., all of our 2005 Stage I C6/LS2/A4 equipped vehicles we build here leave with approx. 505-510 RWHP @ 7psi., all of our 2005 Stage II C6/LS2/A4 equipped vehicles we build here leave with approx. 545-555 RWHP @ 9psi. and all of our 2006-2007 C6/LS2/A6 equipped vehicles we build here leave with approx. 505-510 RWHP @ 7psi. *EVERY* single one of these packages has provided exceptional power and durability with a 100% success rate to date.
6. See #1.
BTW- Our H20 temps are approx. 187*-192* average and oil temps are 208-215 average on a 80*-90* day.
Last edited by DTE Powertrain; 08-02-2007 at 03:17 PM.