WTS- 2011 Z06 with 34 miles
04-04-2015, 11:53 AM
#23
Supporting Vendor
One thing I researched is the valve guide issue. Not sure but I read reference to a build date when GM 'fixed' the problem. Might be worth your time to list that info.
GLWS - - don't let the lowballers get you down too much.
04-04-2015, 09:57 PM
#24
Le Mans Master
Cars built after 2/11 should be good to go with valve guide issues.
04-04-2015, 11:20 PM
#25
Safety Car
The car is 4-5 years old. If you don't drive it, all the seals will dry up. It'll be leaking & seeping oil. There is no more bumper to bumper warranty. All the kinks haven't been found, or corrected. The rings aren't seated yet. The fuel is certainly bad, & turning to varnish
Doesn't appear to have plates. How can someone test drive it?
GM's policy is annual oil change, regardless of mileage.
Me personally, I'd feel better about buying a 20,000 mile car.
Doesn't appear to have plates. How can someone test drive it?
GM's policy is annual oil change, regardless of mileage.
Me personally, I'd feel better about buying a 20,000 mile car.
04-05-2015, 08:21 AM
#26
Le Mans Master
The car is 4-5 years old. If you don't drive it, all the seals will dry up. It'll be leaking & seeping oil. There is no more bumper to bumper warranty. All the kinks haven't been found, or corrected. The rings aren't seated yet. The fuel is certainly bad, & turning to varnish
Doesn't appear to have plates. How can someone test drive it?
GM's policy is annual oil change, regardless of mileage.
Me personally, I'd feel better about buying a 20,000 mile car.
Doesn't appear to have plates. How can someone test drive it?
GM's policy is annual oil change, regardless of mileage.
Me personally, I'd feel better about buying a 20,000 mile car.
04-05-2015, 09:05 AM
#27
Racer
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Location: Myrtle Beach SC
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You are an idiot. Instead of making assumptions, why not ask?
The one picture is right after the car was delivered off the enclosed trailer.
The car is started regularly, it sits on a battery tender, the oil is changed every 6 months, and it has plates that are current. I even drive it around the block sometimes!!! Wow!
So yes, please go buy a 20,000 mile car and get out of my thread with your 1980's "analysis".
are
The one picture is right after the car was delivered off the enclosed trailer.
The car is started regularly, it sits on a battery tender, the oil is changed every 6 months, and it has plates that are current. I even drive it around the block sometimes!!! Wow!
So yes, please go buy a 20,000 mile car and get out of my thread with your 1980's "analysis".
are
The car is 4-5 years old. If you don't drive it, all the seals will dry up. It'll be leaking & seeping oil. There is no more bumper to bumper warranty. All the kinks haven't been found, or corrected. The rings aren't seated yet. The fuel is certainly bad, & turning to varnish
Doesn't appear to have plates. How can someone test drive it?
GM's policy is annual oil change, regardless of mileage.
Me personally, I'd feel better about buying a 20,000 mile car.
Doesn't appear to have plates. How can someone test drive it?
GM's policy is annual oil change, regardless of mileage.
Me personally, I'd feel better about buying a 20,000 mile car.
04-05-2015, 08:39 PM
#30
Safety Car
You're the idiot. Starting it regularly is worse than not starting it all. Driving it around the block does no good. You need to take it out on the highway, and get the entire drive-train up to operating temperature. This way you burn off the condensation in the oil. But you obviously don't know that, IDIOT.
You are an idiot. Instead of making assumptions, why not ask?
The one picture is right after the car was delivered off the enclosed trailer.
The car is started regularly, it sits on a battery tender, the oil is changed every 6 months, and it has plates that are current. I even drive it around the block sometimes!!! Wow!
So yes, please go buy a 20,000 mile car and get out of my thread with your 1980's "analysis".
are
The one picture is right after the car was delivered off the enclosed trailer.
The car is started regularly, it sits on a battery tender, the oil is changed every 6 months, and it has plates that are current. I even drive it around the block sometimes!!! Wow!
So yes, please go buy a 20,000 mile car and get out of my thread with your 1980's "analysis".
are
04-05-2015, 09:24 PM
#31
Melting Slicks
You're the idiot. Starting it regularly is worse than not starting it all. Driving it around the block does no good. You need to take it out on the highway, and get the entire drive-train up to operating temperature. This way you burn off the condensation in the oil. But you obviously don't know that, IDIOT.
glws awesome car.
04-05-2015, 11:08 PM
#32
Race Director
You're the idiot. Starting it regularly is worse than not starting it all. Driving it around the block does no good. You need to take it out on the highway, and get the entire drive-train up to operating temperature. This way you burn off the condensation in the oil. But you obviously don't know that, IDIOT.
SC brother good luck with sale and bump for nice car.
04-06-2015, 10:28 AM
#34
Heel & Toe
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04-06-2015, 12:22 PM
#35
Racer
You're the idiot. Starting it regularly is worse than not starting it all. Driving it around the block does no good. You need to take it out on the highway, and get the entire drive-train up to operating temperature. This way you burn off the condensation in the oil. But you obviously don't know that, IDIOT.
04-06-2015, 12:25 PM
#36
Melting Slicks
I have a few cars in storage. I always store them properly, full tank of fuel. extra air in the tires so they don't flat spot. Battery tender. Then I drive them every few months, and run through a full tank of gas. Take a few highway trips, put at least a 100-200 miles on the car, fill it back up, and back into storage. If you follow some simple guidelines, most times you'll never have any problems.
Back in the days of carburetors, once they varnished over, it was a nightmare.
04-06-2015, 12:45 PM
#37
Racer
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I appreciate your opinion, but that's not how a car needs to be stored to be "ok" in my years of storing vehicles.
I have had over 50 cars at one time or the other in storage over the last 15 years. The most recent one I sold was a 2004 Mustang Cobra that sat in storage until 2009, when I sold it to a guy in FL. 42,000 miles later, the car runs like the day I first bought it. He's had no issues with the car, and actually even takes it to the drag strip on occasion.
I have consulted with plenty of pros who buy and store cars, and you can certainly keep a car in storage without worry by following a few simple rules. You don't have to put 100 miles on one or burn a tank of gas to do it, either.
But this is really off topic....a few guys in here act like they have never seen a 4 year old car with 34 miles on it.
Please keep the comments on point to help sell the car, or please don't comment at all.
Thanks!
I have had over 50 cars at one time or the other in storage over the last 15 years. The most recent one I sold was a 2004 Mustang Cobra that sat in storage until 2009, when I sold it to a guy in FL. 42,000 miles later, the car runs like the day I first bought it. He's had no issues with the car, and actually even takes it to the drag strip on occasion.
I have consulted with plenty of pros who buy and store cars, and you can certainly keep a car in storage without worry by following a few simple rules. You don't have to put 100 miles on one or burn a tank of gas to do it, either.
But this is really off topic....a few guys in here act like they have never seen a 4 year old car with 34 miles on it.
Please keep the comments on point to help sell the car, or please don't comment at all.
Thanks!
With only 34 miles..... it's apparent the drive train was not brought to operating temperature more than 3-4 times......
I have a few cars in storage. I always store them properly, full tank of fuel. extra air in the tires so they don't flat spot. Battery tender. Then I drive them every few months, and run through a full tank of gas. Take a few highway trips, put at least a 100-200 miles on the car, fill it back up, and back into storage. If you follow some simple guidelines, most times you'll never have any problems.
Back in the days of carburetors, once they varnished over, it was a nightmare.
I have a few cars in storage. I always store them properly, full tank of fuel. extra air in the tires so they don't flat spot. Battery tender. Then I drive them every few months, and run through a full tank of gas. Take a few highway trips, put at least a 100-200 miles on the car, fill it back up, and back into storage. If you follow some simple guidelines, most times you'll never have any problems.
Back in the days of carburetors, once they varnished over, it was a nightmare.
04-07-2015, 10:06 PM
#38
_"SCOTT"_
No. The Z07 package is independent of the 3LZ package.
If the car has the leather trim dash, doors, and console lid, as well as dual power sport seats, it is a 3LZ.
OP will have to answer since I don't see any interior pics.
Absolutely beautiful car!!!!!!!!!!!!!...
If the car has the leather trim dash, doors, and console lid, as well as dual power sport seats, it is a 3LZ.
OP will have to answer since I don't see any interior pics.
Absolutely beautiful car!!!!!!!!!!!!!...
04-07-2015, 10:13 PM
#39
Racer
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Thank you!
Yes the car has the Z07 and has the 3LZ package. As far as I know it is fully loaded.
Yes the car has the Z07 and has the 3LZ package. As far as I know it is fully loaded.
04-08-2015, 07:11 AM
#40
Hi; All,... The ad is to SELL HIS CAR not how to .. STORE A CAR .. If your not interested in a car with 34 miles on it and only want to bash the for sale ad. you are the IDIOT ... Mind your own business and keep your comments to yourself , Mister know it all... The car is his not yours and he can do what he wants to.... he owns it you DO NOT ..... Good luck with sale, and dis-regard all of the ..... KNOW IT All PEOPLE...... Mike