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[ZR1] IAT2's The Good...the Bad...and UGLY

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Old 07-22-2014, 08:54 PM
  #81  
Streetk14
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Originally Posted by ace32x
i tested it out on mine, i make 21 lbs with it off, put it on can only hit 18.8
Was this just taking the shroud off? Using the Lingenfelter filter setup for both tests?
Old 07-22-2014, 09:18 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by chuntington101
The simplest way to reduce IAT 1s is to reduce the restriction pre blower. The less pressure difference over the blower means less work for it to do and thus lower IAT1s, or more boost pressure. You pick one, not both! the supercharger will still be pumping in a load of heat no matter what you do. The only way to reduce IAT1s and get more boost is to fit a more efficient blower.

This is why you often see an increase in boost with the filter off. The pressure difference remains the same (let's say 2 x atmospheric pressure) but as you have increased the air pressure the blower is seeing you net more boost post blower.

You could look to chemically cool the air BEFORE the rotors using either meth injection or water. Both should work well.

I still ask the question are IAT1s that important? Surely the main focus should be on IAT2 as that is the air we are bothered about.
I'm not following you, but I'm a dumbass So, you're saying that an engine ingesting air from an oven (say 250 degrees) is no different than one ingesting air from a freezer (maybe 20 degrees) as long as there's no restriction?

Why isn't feeding the engine cooler air the simplest way to reduce IAT 1's?
Old 07-23-2014, 01:12 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by old motorhead
I'm not following you, but I'm a dumbass So, you're saying that an engine ingesting air from an oven (say 250 degrees) is no different than one ingesting air from a freezer (maybe 20 degrees) as long as there's no restriction?

Why isn't feeding the engine cooler air the simplest way to reduce IAT 1's?
Sorry it's probably me not explaining myself very well.

Your right, feeding the blower with 1 degrees kelvin air would be the best thing you could do for both IAT1 and 2 temps. However that's never going to happen! also you have fairly limited control of the ambient air temp. However it's important, as with any engine, to ensure the air pick is in the coolest, highest air pressure location. This is normal in the headlight area as closer to the road is often hotter!

What I was getting at is IAT1 are pretty pointless measurement. The blower is putting in xxx amount if energy into the intake air which will cause a similar increase in temp no matter what the starting temp is. So if you measure the inlet to the SC and IAT2 temps you have both ends of the system covered. Plus the key temperature is the IAT2 as that's what the engines is actually seeing.

So going back to your point who cares if iat 1 is 300 degrees if iat2 are only 20 degrees above ambient?

Dose that make more sense?
Old 07-23-2014, 08:30 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by chuntington101
Sorry it's probably me not explaining myself very well.

Your right, feeding the blower with 1 degrees kelvin air would be the best thing you could do for both IAT1 and 2 temps. However that's never going to happen! also you have fairly limited control of the ambient air temp. However it's important, as with any engine, to ensure the air pick is in the coolest, highest air pressure location. This is normal in the headlight area as closer to the road is often hotter!

What I was getting at is IAT1 are pretty pointless measurement. The blower is putting in xxx amount if energy into the intake air which will cause a similar increase in temp no matter what the starting temp is. So if you measure the inlet to the SC and IAT2 temps you have both ends of the system covered. Plus the key temperature is the IAT2 as that's what the engines is actually seeing.

So going back to your point who cares if iat 1 is 300 degrees if iat2 are only 20 degrees above ambient?

Dose that make more sense?

I'm not sure if this was originally a response to my looking at blocking out engine bay heat from my air filter... but I'd like to believe that the cooler the air we can feed the blower, the better. You're right in that the blower is going to heat up the air no matter what, but I'd think the blower would be more efficient if it's sucking in ambient air vs. +30 degree air from the engine bay. I've seen this same argument with the turbo BMW guys, but I still prefer to get the coldest air I can in a given situation.

For the record, I don't have an IAT 1 measurement I can log. My OEM MAF has the IAT sensor, but it's bypassed. My E38 PCM doesn't have the capability to have two IAT readings. All I log is what you ZR1 guys call IAT 2, which is mounted in my blower housing after the intercooler. And that is what ultimately matters.

I like the idea of having a shroud to block out engine bay heat and help make the blower and intercooler system have an easier life, but not if it's at the expense of inlet restriction. Sounds like that Lingenfelter shroud is a restriction -- at least at higher power levels. So that's probably a deal killer for me.

I will be spraying meth before the throttle body, so maybe it isn't something I need to be worried about.
Old 07-24-2014, 08:37 AM
  #85  
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Yeah the cooler and denser the ambient air is the better!

Just to confirm when i mention IAT1's I'm talking about post blower temps. Is that the same as everyone else?
Old 07-24-2014, 10:05 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by chuntington101
Yeah the cooler and denser the ambient air is the better!

Just to confirm when i mention IAT1's I'm talking about post blower temps. Is that the same as everyone else?
IAT1 would be the sensor that's installed in the MAF housing -- so ambient air temp basically.
Old 07-24-2014, 12:32 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by Nick@Straightline
We can definitely make a tank for you!!! The only thing that we would not know is the line setup! We could always just send you extra line and you would have to route it.
PM sent.
Old 07-24-2014, 01:27 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by erick_e
PM sent.
Thanks! pm responded to
Old 07-25-2014, 12:23 AM
  #89  
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Thanks for all the solid info ZBADESTZ. Hopefully Straightline is taking care of you for all this legwork.
Old 07-25-2014, 11:39 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Streetk14
IAT1 would be the sensor that's installed in the MAF housing -- so ambient air temp basically.
In that case then yes, you want IAT1 temps (ambient air) to be as low as you can. The lower the temps of the ambient air then the lower the temp post blower.
Old 07-25-2014, 08:53 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by ace32x
i tested it out on mine, i make 21 lbs with it off, put it on can only hit 18.8
Did you notice any differences in IAT1 with it on or off ?

Cheers,
Rob
Old 08-06-2014, 05:19 PM
  #92  
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Bringing this back up...

What would one consider "normal" IAT2 temps under sustained hard abuse?

I hit 173 or so after multiple laps at sebring in 100* heat, and thinking I need to get that down. trying to avoid going to meth/water injection, and I have drew's HE setup already.

Thanks
Old 08-06-2014, 06:05 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by UrbanKnight
Bringing this back up...

What would one consider "normal" IAT2 temps under sustained hard abuse?

I hit 173 or so after multiple laps at sebring in 100* heat, and thinking I need to get that down. trying to avoid going to meth/water injection, and I have drew's HE setup already.

Thanks
173 with no meth is pretty good in those temps. i dont worry until i see 190
Old 08-06-2014, 09:20 PM
  #94  
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I agree with no meth and that air temp that is not that bad!!
Old 09-09-2014, 07:11 PM
  #95  
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Old 09-12-2014, 12:19 AM
  #96  
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No challenges in tuning...

I want Straightline to build me a 5" for same location this is a 4" that I might get ride of.





Originally Posted by Rob.Laurie
Ok You Are Crazy !

But a couple of questions on this intake.

Any challenges tuning/calibrating the MAF ?

Did you box the cross member you cut that great big hole in ?

And lastly could you get another intake tube like that built for me if I decide to go that way ?

Any other suggestions to reduce IAT1 that is not quite so radical VS using the LPE shroud ?

Cheers,
Rob
Old 09-12-2014, 02:23 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by ZBADESTZ
No challenges in tuning...

I want Straightline to build me a 5" for same location this is a 4" that I might get ride of.
Let me know when you are ready to get rid of it.

Cheers,
Rob

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Old 09-30-2014, 10:00 AM
  #98  
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:54 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by ZBADESTZ@Straightline
Do you have any numbers on the dyno or at the track for what theses changes are actually worth?
Old 09-30-2014, 12:06 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by Streetk14
Was this just taking the shroud off? Using the Lingenfelter filter setup for both tests?
correct, lpe snout. was a custom intake and filter set up at the time though


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