[ZR1] IAT2's The Good...the Bad...and UGLY
07-16-2014, 09:13 AM
#61
Drifting
^^ Are you looking at IAT1 or IAT2? And, what was ambient temp when you had the car on the dyno?
If your IAT1 "only" hit 135* that's not a big achievement. Look at IAT2's.
How are your ECT's? My tuner got a slightly negative impression of C6's with Eforce kits. However, that was only based on just a handful of cars that were modded with one. He reported them having some issues with rising engine coolant temps in addition to challenges on keeping the intake charge cool.
Don't get the mistaken impression that I'm trying to bust on your setup. Just want to make sure you don't just think things are OK, but that they actually ARE good to go.
If your IAT1 "only" hit 135* that's not a big achievement. Look at IAT2's.
How are your ECT's? My tuner got a slightly negative impression of C6's with Eforce kits. However, that was only based on just a handful of cars that were modded with one. He reported them having some issues with rising engine coolant temps in addition to challenges on keeping the intake charge cool.
Don't get the mistaken impression that I'm trying to bust on your setup. Just want to make sure you don't just think things are OK, but that they actually ARE good to go.
07-16-2014, 10:47 AM
#62
Le Mans Master
^^ Are you looking at IAT1 or IAT2? And, what was ambient temp when you had the car on the dyno?
If your IAT1 "only" hit 135* that's not a big achievement. Look at IAT2's.
How are your ECT's? My tuner got a slightly negative impression of C6's with Eforce kits. However, that was only based on just a handful of cars that were modded with one. He reported them having some issues with rising engine coolant temps in addition to challenges on keeping the intake charge cool.
Don't get the mistaken impression that I'm trying to bust on your setup. Just want to make sure you don't just think things are OK, but that they actually ARE good to go.
If your IAT1 "only" hit 135* that's not a big achievement. Look at IAT2's.
How are your ECT's? My tuner got a slightly negative impression of C6's with Eforce kits. However, that was only based on just a handful of cars that were modded with one. He reported them having some issues with rising engine coolant temps in addition to challenges on keeping the intake charge cool.
Don't get the mistaken impression that I'm trying to bust on your setup. Just want to make sure you don't just think things are OK, but that they actually ARE good to go.
I am quite schooled in this stuff and wouldn't compare IAT 1 to IAT 2.
07-16-2014, 01:37 PM
#63
Team Owner
This is the absolute best, informative, non-biased, altruistic post I've EVER seen on this forum. And I've been on this corvette forum since 2005. Wow, I did not think those IATs were achievable in a ZR1 especially at your power levels, Drew. Just awesome!!! ZR1 IAT issues.........well PROBLEM SOLVED!
No wonder this car ran 175+ at the standing half mile (even with a possible bad spark plug!).
I wonder what a stock ZR1 would do around the ring with a setup like this?
No wonder this car ran 175+ at the standing half mile (even with a possible bad spark plug!).
I wonder what a stock ZR1 would do around the ring with a setup like this?
Superchargeing power is all about the cool IAT's!Doing this soon to my ZR1!
07-16-2014, 03:01 PM
#64
Drifting
07-20-2014, 01:08 AM
#66
I have been following this thread with interest, as I am always looking for ways to lower the IAT's on my built LS402 with eforce car.
I am starting to realize that the eforce isn't as bad as I thought in this area. I am surprised that the IAT's are so high on the ZR!.
At my last dyno session, on the final pull, which was average around 13lbs and 780 RWHP, the IAT's topped at 135. This was on a long pull (around 20 seconds total) to 6700 rpm on a dynapac. It was the 5th and final pull with very little cool down time in between.
From what I am reading here I guess I should be happy with that and stop torturing myself trying to get them lower.
I am starting to realize that the eforce isn't as bad as I thought in this area. I am surprised that the IAT's are so high on the ZR!.
At my last dyno session, on the final pull, which was average around 13lbs and 780 RWHP, the IAT's topped at 135. This was on a long pull (around 20 seconds total) to 6700 rpm on a dynapac. It was the 5th and final pull with very little cool down time in between.
From what I am reading here I guess I should be happy with that and stop torturing myself trying to get them lower.
I think you should try an air to air intercooler next. Just need to make a new lid for the e-force. SC outlet over the rad and into the intercooler and outlets at the bottom leading up to the runners on the supercharger wih a couple of meth nozzles for good measure. it worked on the MINI!
07-20-2014, 04:06 AM
#67
Le Mans Master
Never stop looking for improvements.
I think you should try an air to air intercooler next. Just need to make a new lid for the e-force. SC outlet over the rad and into the intercooler and outlets at the bottom leading up to the runners on the supercharger wih a couple of meth nozzles for good measure. it worked on the MINI!
I think you should try an air to air intercooler next. Just need to make a new lid for the e-force. SC outlet over the rad and into the intercooler and outlets at the bottom leading up to the runners on the supercharger wih a couple of meth nozzles for good measure. it worked on the MINI!
07-20-2014, 01:06 PM
#69
Melting Slicks
07-20-2014, 03:01 PM
#70
Instructor
07-20-2014, 06:58 PM
#71
This was a great post and got me thinking. I sent Nick@Straightline a new set of Bricks to mod and picked up the extra reservoir tank kit from him as I already have larger heat exchanger. I have mucho grande data to compare the new setup with so I will post up some logs when I get the new kit installed. At the very minimum the peace of mind for the reinforcement is worth it.
Last edited by cheet_code; 07-20-2014 at 09:42 PM.
07-20-2014, 09:12 PM
#72
Drifting
I told Drew this when we talked tonight as I mirrored his setup on mine.
If you use the frame rail cooler- Get 45* push lock fittings instead of straight, they will go better!
If you use the frame rail cooler- Get 45* push lock fittings instead of straight, they will go better!
07-20-2014, 09:13 PM
#73
Drifting
And Drew- You have been invaluable is the R&D and knowledge of this issue that would of taken very little for GM to correct for all LS9's to be a very potent track weapon....
07-21-2014, 06:35 PM
#74
I would like to thank everyone for your orders!!! Also for Drew basically being the test dummy for all the cooling mods I believe Drew dreams about different ways to make these cars faster and run cooler!!!
I believe Drew dreams about different ways to make these cars faster and run cooler!!!
07-21-2014, 09:18 PM
#75
Air Intake
First 2 examples that the default reading cause they didn't have one.
On the first to example they had the lpe shroud on there car and it really chokes it up..
On my car I didn't like how the filter sucks the HOT air off the radiator and preheats the blower temps so I came up with this...
Call me crazy but it works
On the first to example they had the lpe shroud on there car and it really chokes it up..
On my car I didn't like how the filter sucks the HOT air off the radiator and preheats the blower temps so I came up with this...
Call me crazy but it works
!But a couple of questions on this intake.
Any challenges tuning/calibrating the MAF ?
Did you box the cross member you cut that great big hole in ?
And lastly could you get another intake tube like that built for me if I decide to go that way ?
Any other suggestions to reduce IAT1 that is not quite so radical VS using the LPE shroud ?
Cheers,
Rob
07-21-2014, 10:27 PM
#76
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Barbara CA
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I'd like to see more data or info on the Lingenfelter shroud causing issues. Since that intake will work with my blower setup, I've been thinking about getting one in the name of reducing IAT 1 numbers. Right now, I just have an exposed intake like the OEM ZR1 piece, but with an Attack Blue filter.
If that Lingenfelter shroud really causes an airflow restriction, then it's out. Figured there would be enough airflow through the holes in the frame and bumper scoop, but maybe not?
If that Lingenfelter shroud really causes an airflow restriction, then it's out. Figured there would be enough airflow through the holes in the frame and bumper scoop, but maybe not?
07-21-2014, 11:44 PM
#77
I'd like to see more data or info on the Lingenfelter shroud causing issues. Since that intake will work with my blower setup, I've been thinking about getting one in the name of reducing IAT 1 numbers. Right now, I just have an exposed intake like the OEM ZR1 piece, but with an Attack Blue filter.
If that Lingenfelter shroud really causes an airflow restriction, then it's out. Figured there would be enough airflow through the holes in the frame and bumper scoop, but maybe not?
If that Lingenfelter shroud really causes an airflow restriction, then it's out. Figured there would be enough airflow through the holes in the frame and bumper scoop, but maybe not?
07-22-2014, 02:28 AM
#78
The simplest way to reduce IAT 1s is to reduce the restriction pre blower. The less pressure difference over the blower means less work for it to do and thus lower IAT1s, or more boost pressure. You pick one, not both! the supercharger will still be pumping in a load of heat no matter what you do. The only way to reduce IAT1s and get more boost is to fit a more efficient blower.
This is why you often see an increase in boost with the filter off. The pressure difference remains the same (let's say 2 x atmospheric pressure) but as you have increased the air pressure the blower is seeing you net more boost post blower.
You could look to chemically cool the air BEFORE the rotors using either meth injection or water. Both should work well.
I still ask the question are IAT1s that important? Surely the main focus should be on IAT2 as that is the air we are bothered about.
the supercharger will still be pumping in a load of heat no matter what you do. The only way to reduce IAT1s and get more boost is to fit a more efficient blower. This is why you often see an increase in boost with the filter off. The pressure difference remains the same (let's say 2 x atmospheric pressure) but as you have increased the air pressure the blower is seeing you net more boost post blower.
You could look to chemically cool the air BEFORE the rotors using either meth injection or water. Both should work well.
I still ask the question are IAT1s that important? Surely the main focus should be on IAT2 as that is the air we are bothered about.
07-22-2014, 10:40 AM
#79
Melting Slicks
I''d be very interested in something like this for my E-Force LS7.
I just got a Dashlogic to monitor my IATs, and they are higher that I thought they would be. I've seen them as high as 170'F
I just got a Dashlogic to monitor my IATs, and they are higher that I thought they would be. I've seen them as high as 170'F
07-22-2014, 06:04 PM
#80
We can definitely make a tank for you!!! The only thing that we would not know is the line setup! We could always just send you extra line and you would have to route it.