[ZR1] IAT2's The Good...the Bad...and UGLY
#22
Melting Slicks
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Magnuson heat exchanger is a good price compared to rest...Stock pump...Expansion tank....have it flowing the most efficient way...and filled
Thanks for the informative post Drew, really appreciate it.
" this shroud also choke the crap from fresh air getting into the motor"
Could you expand upon this ?
Other than the expansion tank, pushlock hoses & brick plates, what else have you changed ? Pump ? Heat exchanger ?
Cheers,
Rob
" this shroud also choke the crap from fresh air getting into the motor"
Could you expand upon this ?
Other than the expansion tank, pushlock hoses & brick plates, what else have you changed ? Pump ? Heat exchanger ?
Cheers,
Rob
#23
Melting Slicks
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Althought i dont have a ZR1, I do run a pd blower and this info is fascinating.
Very interesting and good info in those logs. I am assuming in the first ones the wideband is not working because it seems very lean for that boost.
Incredibly high IAT's. One thing I am curious of it why would the IAT1 be so high compared to the ambient ? I get that the bigger tank and other changes would help IAT2 considerabley, but are the changes that drop IAT1 so much?
Very interesting and good info in those logs. I am assuming in the first ones the wideband is not working because it seems very lean for that boost.
Incredibly high IAT's. One thing I am curious of it why would the IAT1 be so high compared to the ambient ? I get that the bigger tank and other changes would help IAT2 considerabley, but are the changes that drop IAT1 so much?
This will work on any PD vette...you should try it...
#24
Melting Slicks
Anybody ever tried running Engine Ice coolant as the heat exchanger/intercooler fluid? I just picked up a ZL1 and I want to maximize efficiency. I'm thinking Lingenfelter 4l reservoir and the Stewart pump modified by Lingenfelter.
#26
Drifting
I am very impressed.
#27
Melting Slicks
I set mine up so the weight of the water is always in the pump...
You don't want your pump trying to suck thru the heat exchanger or from the bricks...The first car in log was sucking from the bricks and that's what probably burnt it out, it would not circulate any water..
Have the routing is definitely a key role... And make sure to get ALL the air pockets out.....Keep in mind Im no engineer this is just a lot of testing and what I found to work best..
You don't want your pump trying to suck thru the heat exchanger or from the bricks...The first car in log was sucking from the bricks and that's what probably burnt it out, it would not circulate any water..
Have the routing is definitely a key role... And make sure to get ALL the air pockets out.....Keep in mind Im no engineer this is just a lot of testing and what I found to work best..
Supercharger, heat exchanger, pump, reservoir, supercharger
Or
Supercharger, heat exchanger, reservoir, pump, supercharger
#28
Drifting
One thing I was wondering, does anyone make copper heat exchangers for these PD's? Copper obviously weighs more than aluminum (and is much more expensive, but we're in the wrong subsection to worry about that ), but so do extra reservoirs and fluid. And copper is almost twice as efficient at heat removal than aluminum.
#29
Melting Slicks
You might be able to find a shop to make you a custom copper core heat exchanger. I think I'll look into that here in the Phoenix area. It's not like my ZL1 is a lightweight, lol.
#30
Drifting
But for those little enclosed PD bricks, it might be worthwhile to help avoid heat soak, at least in some applications.
That's almost 89% more efficient.
I'm more than willing to test this theory with your wallet, Jon.
Wait, let me go to the USPTO first!
#31
Drew, have you monitored water temps at all in your testing? One thin I'm interested in seeing is if the stock or modded stock intercooler bricks are actually the issue.
The theory is simple, in any air to water setup you are basically using the water as a medium to move the energy from the chargecooler (cc) to the low temp radiator / heat exchange or (he) and then on to the atmosphere. By fitting a massive he you are ensuring you can disparate the heat to the atmosphere, but are the stock cc bricks able to transfer the heat to the water in the first place?
By monitoring the delta t of the water over the bricks (temp before and after) you can see just how much heat the water is absorbing. If the difference in temp is very low the it's even harder at the he side of things to reject the heat as that will be seeing even lower delta t values.
Hope that makes some sense.
The theory is simple, in any air to water setup you are basically using the water as a medium to move the energy from the chargecooler (cc) to the low temp radiator / heat exchange or (he) and then on to the atmosphere. By fitting a massive he you are ensuring you can disparate the heat to the atmosphere, but are the stock cc bricks able to transfer the heat to the water in the first place?
By monitoring the delta t of the water over the bricks (temp before and after) you can see just how much heat the water is absorbing. If the difference in temp is very low the it's even harder at the he side of things to reject the heat as that will be seeing even lower delta t values.
Hope that makes some sense.
#32
Team Owner
Subscribed! This makes the ZR1 a keeper! IAT is your power!
Add this ARH headers
smaller pulley and tune and she's ready!
Add this ARH headers
smaller pulley and tune and she's ready!
Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 07-06-2014 at 08:35 AM.
#33
Melting Slicks
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Drew, have you monitored water temps at all in your testing? One thin I'm interested in seeing is if the stock or modded stock intercooler bricks are actually the issue.
The theory is simple, in any air to water setup you are basically using the water as a medium to move the energy from the chargecooler (cc) to the low temp radiator / heat exchange or (he) and then on to the atmosphere. By fitting a massive he you are ensuring you can disparate the heat to the atmosphere, but are the stock cc bricks able to transfer the heat to the water in the first place?
By monitoring the delta t of the water over the bricks (temp before and after) you can see just how much heat the water is absorbing. If the difference in temp is very low the it's even harder at the he side of things to reject the heat as that will be seeing even lower delta t values.
Hope that makes some sense.
The theory is simple, in any air to water setup you are basically using the water as a medium to move the energy from the chargecooler (cc) to the low temp radiator / heat exchange or (he) and then on to the atmosphere. By fitting a massive he you are ensuring you can disparate the heat to the atmosphere, but are the stock cc bricks able to transfer the heat to the water in the first place?
By monitoring the delta t of the water over the bricks (temp before and after) you can see just how much heat the water is absorbing. If the difference in temp is very low the it's even harder at the he side of things to reject the heat as that will be seeing even lower delta t values.
Hope that makes some sense.
What I found is this setup is working and should be done even on stock zr1's.....
Its the best bang for your buck for whats out there and its working.....
Im testing a stock zr1 next week and see how cooling is before and after this setup.
#34
Melting Slicks
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There are a lot of people on this forum that do not post and only pm on this issues...
Getting the brick mod could prevent this from happening..
And when this ^ happens this V happens
Getting the brick mod could prevent this from happening..
And when this ^ happens this V happens
#35
Thanks everyone for all your orders!! Joe has been putting in a lot of hours to keep up with the high demand! Our internet has been down since last week so I apologize if I haven't returned any emails. I am posting from my phone and will be checking my pm's. Any questions feel free to call 8154857741.
Nick
Nick
#37
#38
Melting Slicks
Sweet! I understand the bigger reservoir. I'm not understanding what the brick mod is?
#39
Race Director
#40
Melting Slicks