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[ZR1] IAT2's The Good...the Bad...and UGLY

Old 06-30-2014, 11:47 AM
  #21  
solow1k
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Good to see progress like this being made! Thanks man
Old 06-30-2014, 02:22 PM
  #22  
ZBADESTZ@Straightline
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Magnuson heat exchanger is a good price compared to rest...Stock pump...Expansion tank....have it flowing the most efficient way...and filled





Originally Posted by Rob.Laurie
Thanks for the informative post Drew, really appreciate it.

" this shroud also choke the crap from fresh air getting into the motor"

Could you expand upon this ?

Other than the expansion tank, pushlock hoses & brick plates, what else have you changed ? Pump ? Heat exchanger ?

Cheers,
Rob
Old 06-30-2014, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by realcanuk
Althought i dont have a ZR1, I do run a pd blower and this info is fascinating.
Very interesting and good info in those logs. I am assuming in the first ones the wideband is not working because it seems very lean for that boost.
Incredibly high IAT's. One thing I am curious of it why would the IAT1 be so high compared to the ambient ? I get that the bigger tank and other changes would help IAT2 considerabley, but are the changes that drop IAT1 so much?

This will work on any PD vette...you should try it...
Old 07-01-2014, 01:26 AM
  #24  
jon6.0
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Anybody ever tried running Engine Ice coolant as the heat exchanger/intercooler fluid? I just picked up a ZL1 and I want to maximize efficiency. I'm thinking Lingenfelter 4l reservoir and the Stewart pump modified by Lingenfelter.
Old 07-01-2014, 08:50 AM
  #25  
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Nice work Drew!
Old 07-01-2014, 03:02 PM
  #26  
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I am very impressed.
Old 07-03-2014, 05:19 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ZBADESTZ
I set mine up so the weight of the water is always in the pump...
You don't want your pump trying to suck thru the heat exchanger or from the bricks...The first car in log was sucking from the bricks and that's what probably burnt it out, it would not circulate any water..

Have the routing is definitely a key role... And make sure to get ALL the air pockets out.....Keep in mind Im no engineer this is just a lot of testing and what I found to work best..
I'm adding a reservoir to my ZL1 and keeping my pump and heat exchanger stock. How should I route the lines?

Supercharger, heat exchanger, pump, reservoir, supercharger

Or

Supercharger, heat exchanger, reservoir, pump, supercharger
Old 07-03-2014, 05:38 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jon6.0
Anybody ever tried running Engine Ice coolant as the heat exchanger/intercooler fluid? I just picked up a ZL1 and I want to maximize efficiency. I'm thinking Lingenfelter 4l reservoir and the Stewart pump modified by Lingenfelter.
Keep in mind, (distilled) water is the best coolant money can buy. The only reason to add glycol-based "coolant" (a marketing term) in warm climates is as an anti-corrosive (which is essentially what Water Wetter and the like are). Water is a much better thermal conductor than glycol. Which is why a great drop temps mod is going from straight coolant to 50/50 coolant.

One thing I was wondering, does anyone make copper heat exchangers for these PD's? Copper obviously weighs more than aluminum (and is much more expensive, but we're in the wrong subsection to worry about that ), but so do extra reservoirs and fluid. And copper is almost twice as efficient at heat removal than aluminum.
Old 07-03-2014, 06:01 PM
  #29  
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You might be able to find a shop to make you a custom copper core heat exchanger. I think I'll look into that here in the Phoenix area. It's not like my ZL1 is a lightweight, lol.
Old 07-03-2014, 06:25 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jon6.0
You might be able to find a shop to make you a custom copper core heat exchanger. I think I'll look into that here in the Phoenix area. It's not like my ZL1 is a lightweight, lol.
Well, considering I have a centri with a huge, discrete intercooler, that would probably weight 200lbs and cost more than my blower (copper costs and weights over 3X aluminum).

But for those little enclosed PD bricks, it might be worthwhile to help avoid heat soak, at least in some applications.



That's almost 89% more efficient.

I'm more than willing to test this theory with your wallet, Jon.

Wait, let me go to the USPTO first!
Old 07-06-2014, 05:00 AM
  #31  
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Drew, have you monitored water temps at all in your testing? One thin I'm interested in seeing is if the stock or modded stock intercooler bricks are actually the issue.

The theory is simple, in any air to water setup you are basically using the water as a medium to move the energy from the chargecooler (cc) to the low temp radiator / heat exchange or (he) and then on to the atmosphere. By fitting a massive he you are ensuring you can disparate the heat to the atmosphere, but are the stock cc bricks able to transfer the heat to the water in the first place?

By monitoring the delta t of the water over the bricks (temp before and after) you can see just how much heat the water is absorbing. If the difference in temp is very low the it's even harder at the he side of things to reject the heat as that will be seeing even lower delta t values.

Hope that makes some sense.
Old 07-06-2014, 08:19 AM
  #32  
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Subscribed! This makes the ZR1 a keeper! IAT is your power!
Add this ARH headers
smaller pulley and tune and she's ready!

Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 07-06-2014 at 08:35 AM.
Old 07-06-2014, 10:05 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by chuntington101
Drew, have you monitored water temps at all in your testing? One thin I'm interested in seeing is if the stock or modded stock intercooler bricks are actually the issue.

The theory is simple, in any air to water setup you are basically using the water as a medium to move the energy from the chargecooler (cc) to the low temp radiator / heat exchange or (he) and then on to the atmosphere. By fitting a massive he you are ensuring you can disparate the heat to the atmosphere, but are the stock cc bricks able to transfer the heat to the water in the first place?

By monitoring the delta t of the water over the bricks (temp before and after) you can see just how much heat the water is absorbing. If the difference in temp is very low the it's even harder at the he side of things to reject the heat as that will be seeing even lower delta t values.

Hope that makes some sense.
I have looked into new bricks but a lot of research in designing.....liability if fails inside of motor.....

What I found is this setup is working and should be done even on stock zr1's.....

Its the best bang for your buck for whats out there and its working.....

Im testing a stock zr1 next week and see how cooling is before and after this setup.
Old 07-06-2014, 10:20 AM
  #34  
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There are a lot of people on this forum that do not post and only pm on this issues...

Getting the brick mod could prevent this from happening..



And when this ^ happens this V happens

Old 07-07-2014, 05:16 PM
  #35  
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Old 07-07-2014, 05:19 PM
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Is it possible to do this for a ZL1?
Old 07-07-2014, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jon6.0
Is it possible to do this for a ZL1?
Yes we would just have to fab a tank that fits the car! As far as the brick mod that is not a problem at all! I have two ZL1's coming in maybe I can see if they will let us fab one up on their car!

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To IAT2's The Good...the Bad...and UGLY

Old 07-08-2014, 12:55 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Nick@Straightline
Yes we would just have to fab a tank that fits the car! As far as the brick mod that is not a problem at all! I have two ZL1's coming in maybe I can see if they will let us fab one up on their car!
Sweet! I understand the bigger reservoir. I'm not understanding what the brick mod is?
Old 07-08-2014, 05:45 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by jon6.0
Sweet! I understand the bigger reservoir. I'm not understanding what the brick mod is?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...st-do-mod.html

Old 07-08-2014, 08:44 AM
  #40  
jon6.0
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Thanks.

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