[ZR1] Can ZR1 brake rotors be turned?
06-01-2013, 09:30 AM
#1
8th Gear
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Can ZR1 brake rotors be turned?
Looking at new rotors for 2009 ZR1. OEM- Best price I'm finding is around
$1600 per rotor. Is it possible to turn these rotors once? What is the minimum width I can safely go on the rotor before I should consider changing? Already changed the pads once and just bought new OEM pads that will be due soon.
$1600 per rotor. Is it possible to turn these rotors once? What is the minimum width I can safely go on the rotor before I should consider changing? Already changed the pads once and just bought new OEM pads that will be due soon.
06-01-2013, 09:58 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
Contact the user richierich on here and he has really good prices. If I'm correct they should be stamped with the weight you can take them down to. How many miles are on the car? Why do you feel they need to be replaced?
06-01-2013, 12:23 PM
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Is it possible to turn these rotors once?
NEVER TURN ROTORS!
Turning a steel rotor reduces the material on it, which then reduces its thermal capacity. One of the rotor's jobs is to try to absorb heat away from the pads and then vent it off into the interior of the wheel. When you turn a steel rotor, you make it much harder for the rotor to do so. And you weaken it.
NEVER TURN ROTORS!
Now, specifically for the ZR1's carbon ceramics: unless you have a diamond-tipped lathe, you're not going to be able to turn them properly. And, even then, you'll just destroy them anyway. They're as hard as a rock, but also very brittle. If you attempt to remove material from their surface, you'll render them useless.
What is the minimum width I can safely go on the rotor before I should consider changing?
- Removing them from the car
- Scrubbing them with a hose and car-wash soap (and that's all!)
- Letting them dry
- Weighing them to make sure they're above their minimum weight
Like their thickness, their minimum weight is engraved on the hub. But they need to be as clean as possible before doing so, because excess brake dust from the pads will throw the measurement off.
Already changed the pads once and just bought new OEM pads that will be due soon.
06-01-2013, 01:41 PM
#6
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
You're not going to find prices much lower than that. Maybe a couple of hundred dollars here or there. These aren't cheap rotors by any stretch, but they'll last a lot longer than you think.
Never turn rotors! Never turn rotors! Never turn rotors! Repeat after me:
NEVER TURN ROTORS!
Turning a steel rotor reduces the material on it, which then reduces its thermal capacity. One of the rotor's jobs is to try to absorb heat away from the pads and then vent it off into the interior of the wheel. When you turn a steel rotor, you make it much harder for the rotor to do so. And you weaken it.
NEVER TURN ROTORS!
Now, specifically for the ZR1's carbon ceramics: unless you have a diamond-tipped lathe, you're not going to be able to turn them properly. And, even then, you'll just destroy them anyway. They're as hard as a rock, but also very brittle. If you attempt to remove material from their surface, you'll render them useless.
Well since we've established that you shouldn't turn these rotors, the minimum thickness no longer matters (it is, interestingly enough, engraved on the rotor's hub). These rotors evaporate from the inside out. Proper testing of them includes:
Like their thickness, their minimum weight is engraved on the hub. But they need to be as clean as possible before doing so, because excess brake dust from the pads will throw the measurement off.
Are you tracking this car? Why are you going through pads so quickly? Those of us tracking them have cycled through a few sets already, but the rotors are holding up fine. If you're tracking the car regularly but are only on your 2nd set of pads, then your rotors are almost assuredly fine.
Never turn rotors! Never turn rotors! Never turn rotors! Repeat after me:
NEVER TURN ROTORS!
Turning a steel rotor reduces the material on it, which then reduces its thermal capacity. One of the rotor's jobs is to try to absorb heat away from the pads and then vent it off into the interior of the wheel. When you turn a steel rotor, you make it much harder for the rotor to do so. And you weaken it.
NEVER TURN ROTORS!
Now, specifically for the ZR1's carbon ceramics: unless you have a diamond-tipped lathe, you're not going to be able to turn them properly. And, even then, you'll just destroy them anyway. They're as hard as a rock, but also very brittle. If you attempt to remove material from their surface, you'll render them useless.
Well since we've established that you shouldn't turn these rotors, the minimum thickness no longer matters (it is, interestingly enough, engraved on the rotor's hub). These rotors evaporate from the inside out. Proper testing of them includes:
- Removing them from the car
- Scrubbing them with a hose and car-wash soap (and that's all!)
- Letting them dry
- Weighing them to make sure they're above their minimum weight
Like their thickness, their minimum weight is engraved on the hub. But they need to be as clean as possible before doing so, because excess brake dust from the pads will throw the measurement off.
Are you tracking this car? Why are you going through pads so quickly? Those of us tracking them have cycled through a few sets already, but the rotors are holding up fine. If you're tracking the car regularly but are only on your 2nd set of pads, then your rotors are almost assuredly fine.
06-01-2013, 03:25 PM
#8
8th Gear
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Thanks for the info the car is tracked in Czech Republic. The mechanics there don't see that kind of car very often so the information you share on this forum is invaluable.
06-01-2013, 06:16 PM
#9
The Consigliere
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Cool to see these ZRs being enjoyed in other parts of the world.
I agree with the above - if you're only on your second set of pads, your rotors likely still plenty of life left in them.
I agree with the above - if you're only on your second set of pads, your rotors likely still plenty of life left in them.
06-01-2013, 11:26 PM
#12
Drifting
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I got about 72 track sessions out of my first set of front rotors. Here's some detailed info:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...e-my-data.html
I added cooling ducts and we'll see if this extends the life further.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...e-my-data.html
I added cooling ducts and we'll see if this extends the life further.
06-04-2013, 10:38 AM
#13
Never turn rotors! Never turn rotors! Never turn rotors! Repeat after me:
NEVER TURN ROTORS!
Turning a steel rotor reduces the material on it, which then reduces its thermal capacity. One of the rotor's jobs is to try to absorb heat away from the pads and then vent it off into the interior of the wheel. When you turn a steel rotor, you make it much harder for the rotor to do so. And you weaken it.
NEVER TURN ROTORS!
NEVER TURN ROTORS!
Turning a steel rotor reduces the material on it, which then reduces its thermal capacity. One of the rotor's jobs is to try to absorb heat away from the pads and then vent it off into the interior of the wheel. When you turn a steel rotor, you make it much harder for the rotor to do so. And you weaken it.
NEVER TURN ROTORS!
06-04-2013, 10:42 AM
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06-04-2013, 12:02 PM
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06-04-2013, 02:27 PM
#17
_"SCOTT"_
06-04-2013, 07:58 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
went to Mosport this weekend for eight- 30 minute track sessions...lots of fun no problems-car was amazing.....but then the dreaded steering wheel vibration at 75-80 mph on the drive home...rotors out of balance?
had the chevy dealer do a factory spec alignment the week prior to tracking it because of pull to the left and I hadn't driven that speed since the alignment.
any thoughts? factory warranty on the brembo discs if they are out of balance?
had the chevy dealer do a factory spec alignment the week prior to tracking it because of pull to the left and I hadn't driven that speed since the alignment.
any thoughts? factory warranty on the brembo discs if they are out of balance?
Last edited by 05dsom; 06-04-2013 at 08:40 PM.
06-04-2013, 09:35 PM
#20
Drifting
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I have had the same thing. I think as the rotors lose mass I do notice that the vibration can rear it's ugly head. I am not sure this is a problem that can be completely solved.
This is assuming that the usual suspects like pickup on the inside or outside of the tires and rims or loss of a balancing weight have been excluded.
Maybe as you track more and the rotors lose more mass it may get better...
This is assuming that the usual suspects like pickup on the inside or outside of the tires and rims or loss of a balancing weight have been excluded.
Maybe as you track more and the rotors lose more mass it may get better...