I went to change out the fluid in the Z06 and starting wondering if the ZR1 has the same (clutch) dust in the fluid issue. I’m hoping not. I can dirty my fluid and degrade clutch engagement in about 6 or 7 power shifts
The issue stems from the design that places the clutch actuator O-ring seal in close proximity to spewed clutch dust. That same design is found on all recent generations of Corvette, including the ZR1.
Of course, any ZR1 owner can simply run say 10K miles of aggressive driving without ever changing the clutch fluid and then report back on lessons-learned. Alternatively, the owner can watch the video, adopt the protocol, and avoid clutch pedal issues entirely.
Ranger
__________________ '06 Z06 red 300 passes
Bone Stock Stock Tires……11.02 127.25 1.70 video
Bone Stock DRs......….…….10.71 130.32 1.60 video '02 Z06 350 passes
Bone Stock Stock Tires……11.81 117.26 1.78
w/ CAI & DRs………...........11.52 120.21 1.64 video My PRsBurnoutLaunchShiftingClutch Care
The issue stems from the design that places the clutch actuator O-ring seal in close proximity to spewed clutch dust. That same design is found on all recent generations of Corvette, including the ZR1.
Of course, any ZR1 owner can simply run say 10K miles of aggressive driving without ever changing the clutch fluid and then report back on lessons-learned. Alternatively, the owner can watch the video, adopt the protocol, and avoid clutch pedal issues entirely.
Ranger
Thanks for the chime in Ranger. There really needs to be a solution to this problem. It is embarrassing to own an $80k-$120k car where you have to carry around brake fluid just incase you encounter more than 10 seconds of spirited driving Maybe a few ZR1 owners who drive their cars hard will chime in.
Ranger, nice Vid. Spoke to someone else with a new Callaway C6 and they had the same issue. They flushed the fluid with no success, then a new master cylinder -no success and then had a slave cylinder on order for replacement.
The issue stems from the design that places the clutch actuator O-ring seal in close proximity to spewed clutch dust. That same design is found on all recent generations of Corvette, including the ZR1.
Of course, any ZR1 owner can simply run say 10K miles of aggressive driving without ever changing the clutch fluid and then report back on lessons-learned. Alternatively, the owner can watch the video, adopt the protocol, and avoid clutch pedal issues entirely.
Ranger
First I saw the explanation for the source of the problem. Who (and how) identified it? Is GM aware of this? Are they working on a solution? Meantime, keep flushing...
Number 43 reporting in. I have already changed the clutch fluid once and it is dirty again. The clutch itself, is working well but it looks like I am going to have to stay on top of the fluid problem.
First I saw the explanation for the source of the problem. Who (and how) identified it? Is GM aware of this? Are they working on a solution? Meantime, keep flushing...
You've been holding out on us Ranger.
Thanks for the info.
The details of my research that established clutch dust as the main culprit are found in the lead post here
The basic issue is the design which places the clutch actuator main O-ring seal in close proximity to the spew of clutch dust during launch and high-rpm shifts. That design has been around for a long time in GM and other manufacturers, including motorcycles.
Thanks for the chime in Ranger. There really needs to be a solution to this problem. It is embarrassing to own an $80k-$120k car where you have to carry around brake fluid just incase you encounter more than 10 seconds of spirited driving Maybe a few ZR1 owners who drive their cars hard will chime in.
Might want to keep in mind that we are now driving cars with elevated power. They require some maintenance, not zero maintenance. My clutch commands two hours of work per-year. That's a small inconvenience for the high return in driving pleasure.
BTW, dealers do a tremendous volume of unnecessary clutch work, authorized by GM under warranty.
I've avoided all that simply by not allowing clutch dust to accumulate in my hydraulics and progressively to destroy the seals. That requires ongoing fluid swaps. Easily done; very minor commitment of time; less than $20 per year. Following this procedure, clutches will last a very long time with few issues along the way.
Might want to keep in mind that we are now driving cars with elevated power. They require some maintenance, not zero maintenance. My clutch commands two hours of work per-year. That's a small inconvenience for the high return in driving pleasure.
Ranger
True, but power is not the issue. I have put a lot of hard shifting miles on 3 of my cars with more power than the Z06 or ZR1; clutch fluid stayed clear and was never changed...ever! Not to start the old flame about this topic, but to say this issue is a “maintenance” issue is just a blind excuse for an unacceptable problem. It’s a bout ½ a step away from having to change your brake fluid after stopping 5-6 times, can you imagine? Or maybe re-gluing the roof back on after 50 miles…or changing tires after 10 turns. In summary it is an abnormal “maintenance” compared to all other cars.
Small inconvenience? I guess that is a mater of opinion. Last time I was at Ocean City I darkened (changed) my fluid 15 times and I was only there a week. It only takes 5-6 power shifts for my Z06 to stop engaging correctly (dirty fluid).
Side Note: I am grateful you took the time to break down what was causing the issue. I recall you and I trying different fluids to see if it helped prolong the time between changes; then reporting the results back to the forum.
Corvette Store
Does the ZR1 have the Z06 clutch fluid issue?
Maybe a few ZR1 owners who drive their cars hard will chime in.
