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I知 about to do h/c/i/headers on my 2013 z06. I recently acquired it from a local dealership and I don稚 have a history on the car. It痴 been previously modified with an unknown cam. I suspect it had further modifications that were removed but cannot confirm.
I知 doing the following:
- Halltech cold air intake for the ls7
- kooks 1 7/8 headers
- akrapovic axle back (titanium)
- fast 102 (acquired used for a decent deal and bought new gaskets)
- Fast Fuel rail kit with injector adapters
- cnc ported Brodix br7 heads from hoopers heads in the Houston area
- cam motion stage 2 cam
- ls7 rockers with CHE trunnion kit
- Johnson 2116lsr lifters. I wanted link bar lifters to replace the trays
- stock throttle body
- ATI harmonic balancer
- Lingenfelter 160 degree thermostat
- monster Lt1s clutch kit from tick with adjustable master and speed bleeder
- replacing all gaskets with oem stuff
- pulling the engine to fix a rear main leak and to do the clutch
- replacing the oil pump while the motor is out
- keeping the oem water pump
- tbd on pushrods because I won稚 know what length until it痴 assembled
- what timing chain should I put on there? That痴 my last thing I need besides the pushrods I can think of. Texas speed said roll master makes their private label timing chain.
- should I do poly motor mounts or oem motor mounts?
Last edited by Burntoutaccountant; 11-26-2023 at 12:51 PM.
How many miles are on your LS7? Might consider new water pump and hoses.
What valve springs and retainers?
How do you intend to use your Z06? Street only or what other? Any use on road courses may affect your shopping list.
Are you planning to have the headers coated? If not, the heat will likely kill new OEM motor mounts. Or maybe just go with Hinsons to avoid that.
ATI harmonic balancer should not be of the 10% underdrive design unless AC compressor is being removed from your car
I have a Monster LT1-S clutch in my Z06 with the stock master cylinder. If I had it all to do over again, I would go with the triple disk which I have driven and believe is much more street-friendly.
Depending on the use of the car, I would consider installing a Katech Blue oil pump to replace the OEM pump. I have done this with my new built short block.
Depending on the use of the car, I would install Improved Racing baffles in the oil pan. Again, I have done this with my new built short block.
P.S. I have lived in Houston area for the last 48 years and owned Corvettes for the last 22 years. This is the first time I have ever heard of Hooper's Heads. I feel obligated to check them out, but I hope you have done this already.
P.S. I have lived in Houston area for the last 48 years and owned Corvettes for the last 22 years. This is the first time I have ever heard of Hooper's Heads. I feel obligated to check them out, but I hope you have done this already.
he used to teach at one of the schools. I trust the referral to him. My friend was teaching Hennessys tuning school and knows him.
he used to teach at one of the schools. I trust the referral to him. My friend was teaching Hennessys tuning school and knows him.
Got it, but just saying, knowing and being comfortable with recommending are two different levels of assurance, so be sure you know what you are getting. In 48 years of living in the Houston area, I have never heard of this supplier before. I will try to establish trust.
A 13 Z06 is a C6 with a 427 engine in the lighter aluminum frame shell, ?right. ?Don''t those have flex issues when a lot of horsepower over the original 550 is added to them. Those cars are a neat engineering thing, but what I remember is that guys putting BIG HP in their cars chose to start with a "normal" C6 - because they had the steel chassis, like C7's. But my memory may be faulty.
A 13 Z06 is a C6 with a 427 engine in the lighter aluminum frame shell, ?right. ?Don''t those have flex issues when a lot of horsepower over the original 550 is added to them. Those cars are a neat engineering thing, but what I remember is that guys putting BIG HP in their cars chose to start with a "normal" C6 - because they had the steel chassis, like C7's. But my memory may be faulty.
The ZR1 also gets the aluminum sub-frame. By that logic wouldn't people avoid doing high HP builds on ZR1s?
The ZR1 also gets the aluminum sub-frame. By that logic wouldn't people avoid doing high HP builds on ZR1s?
Precisely. ?Is my memory faulty or did people find the aluminum chassis had more flex than the 800+WHP builds could deal with well. I suppose, since you made the comment, the ZR1 people do do high HP motors on their cars. ?Are they somehow differently made than the Z痴 of that model. It痴 been 20 years since I recollect reading about this kind of issue, but I do remember one guy building a 780 RWHP motor (which he blew and rebuilt at least once), and he had chassis flex issues and wound up selling the Z he had and buying a straight C6. I recollect the discussion at the time claimed Corvette had made the Z as light as possible (reason for the aluminum chassis) to race. It then put the most motor in that the chassis could tolerate. That (chassis flex) was the main reason you didn稚 see Z06 verts.
I知 not trying to claim some immutable fact. I am only recollecting discussions here on this forum from back in the mid to late 2000痴. The claim at the time was that when you put that much HP into the aluminum chassis you exceeded their flex resistance, that they had been optimized for. the 550-600 HP range. I recollect also that the C7 steel chassis switch was mostly to simplify the supply process in the building, but also it allowed for building Z06痴 with the supercharger motor on the same chassis, and allowed for a vert to be developed in the Z06 configuration.
Quick Google search shows the aluminum chassis from the z06 and zr1 is 50 percent stiffer than the steel chassis. If someone had issues with the aluminum chassis I'd be willing to bet it's because they tried to turn the fixed roof into a targa and had issues because of it. Back on topic, you don't need the Tick master cylinder unless you'd like a stiffer pedal. I also agree with the above I'd go with the monster triple disc. I have the lt1-s twin and have driven the triple. Triple is easier to take off from a stop.
Last of the parts arrived. Radiator is at the shop. Katech oil pump and Nick Williams 103 are here. Got word today that my short block is done. I値l have dyno numbers in the coming weeks and install pics hopefully along the way.
I thought you were keeping stock TB but maybe missed it. I知 basically doing the same thing you池e doing when I finally receive my headers from ARH. The NW 103 mm TB is part of my build.
Have you considered the AMT motor mounts? I値l likely go with these.
Is a new harmonic balancer necessary? Asking because I don稚 really know.
What about plugs and wires?
Will like to see your build after it痴 done. I知 out of Texas too. Good luck w your project👍
I thought you were keeping stock TB but maybe missed it. I知 basically doing the same thing you池e doing when I finally receive my headers from ARH. The NW 103 mm TB is part of my build.
Have you considered the AMT motor mounts? I値l likely go with these.
Is a new harmonic balancer necessary? Asking because I don稚 really know.
What about plugs and wires?
Will like to see your build after it痴 done. I知 out of Texas too. Good luck w your project👍
I was going to keep the stock throttle body but decided to just bite the bullet. And I didn稚 want to mess with tensioner issues I致e seen documented on here.
I値l be running the Hinson motor mounts.
I would say yes on the harmonic balancer.
I will be using oem wires and tr6? Plugs. Some ngk that I can稚 remember right now.
I知 actually in Seattle. My tuner is in Houston. I知 just so ready to have my car back at this point.
Build is almost done. The drivetrain is reassembled with the rebuilt motor, new clutch and rebuilt torque tube. Had to get a new ac compressor. New heads have steam ports on the back so waiting on those parts and it is going back in. Should be done by next weekend and I値l have dyno numbers to post. Hopefully I break the 550rwhp mark.
side note I acquired this 20% reduction tmod shifter locally. It feels amazing. The shop was really impressed with it.
Build is almost done. The drivetrain is reassembled with the rebuilt motor, new clutch and rebuilt torque tube. Had to get a new ac compressor. New heads have steam ports on the back so waiting on those parts and it is going back in. Should be done by next weekend and I値l have dyno numbers to post. Hopefully I break the 550rwhp mark.
side note I acquired this 20% reduction tmod shifter locally. It feels amazing. The shop was really impressed with it.
I think all OEM LS7 heads have steam ports front and rear, so this should be no surprise to your shop. In OEM configuration the rear steam ports are blinded off and the front ones are connected. In very high power iterations, all 4 ports are connected such that venting can take place. What parts are being waited for? I will be going through this in the next couple of weeks in my engine build/installation. Not a lurker.
I think all OEM LS7 heads have steam ports front and rear, so this should be no surprise to your shop. In OEM configuration the rear steam ports are blinded off and the front ones are connected. In very high power iterations, all 4 ports are connected such that venting can take place. What parts are being waited for? I will be going through this in the next couple of weeks in my engine build/installation. Not a lurker.
ahh I had no idea. I don稚 know much regarding the steam ports. Just some small stuff - my catch can and steam port stuff. My car had been previously modded and they didn稚 like the steam port setup that was there. So with everything being new I told them to just get it.
Build is almost done. The drivetrain is reassembled with the rebuilt motor, new clutch and rebuilt torque tube. Had to get a new ac compressor. New heads have steam ports on the back so waiting on those parts and it is going back in. Should be done by next weekend and I値l have dyno numbers to post. Hopefully I break the 550rwhp mark.
side note I acquired this 20% reduction tmod shifter locally. It feels amazing. The shop was really impressed with it.
Thanks for the kind words, your build is looking great. If you want to send that shifter linkage in I can replace the factory ends and eliminate the last little bit of slop between the **** and the gearbox. I know you just got the driveline together but at least it's not up in the car yet.
Thanks for the kind words, your build is looking great. If you want to send that shifter linkage in I can replace the factory ends and eliminate the last little bit of slop between the **** and the gearbox. I know you just got the driveline together but at least it's not up in the car yet.
11-26-2023, 11:51 AM
Let me know if I知 missing anything with my build?
