[Z06] Engine Block Deck Gasket Cleaning and Prep
02-23-2023, 06:53 PM
#21
IDK, Hib, I've used that Norton stone on motorcycles, snowmobiles and V8s, and never had any problems. I guess what you say is possible. But I also think there's a right way, and a wrong way, to use it. My .02...
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MTBSully (02-24-2023)
02-24-2023, 08:13 AM
#23
GM has specific instructions for cleaning block and head decks in a TSB issued late last year #00-06-01-012L: Use of Surface Conditioning Disks When Cleaning Gasket Sealing Surfaces and/or Reused Parts (document ID 6148192). I've excerpted part of it below and put some of the key parts in red.
Recommended Cleaning Procedure
General Motors recommends the use of a razor blade or plastic gasket scraper to clean the gasket surface on components that are to be reused. When cleaning gasket surfaces, please note the following:
Do not use abrasive discs, abrasive pads, sandpaper, steel wool or similar products to "clean" block and head decks. GM has plenty of documentation elsewhere in that bulletin to prove that abrasive particles from those products end up in the engine oil and are distributed to bearings, bores, lifter faces, and camshaft lobes.
As for use of a "honing stone", "sharpening stone" or "Norton Stone"....that's a bad idea, too, IMO, because the microscopic aluminum particles that result from honing the decks end up in the oil.
No one would hone a block and then put the engine together without cleaning the block first. The reason you do that is to remove the aluminum residue left by honing. The same holds true for block and head decks, so...don't use a honing stone unless you disassemble the engine first, use the honing stone on the decks, then clean the block and/or head casting.
Recommended Cleaning Procedure
General Motors recommends the use of a razor blade or plastic gasket scraper to clean the gasket surface on components that are to be reused. When cleaning gasket surfaces, please note the following:
- When using a razor blade type gasket scraper, use a new razor blade for each cylinder head and corresponding block surface. Hold the blade as parallel to the gasket surface as possible. This will ensure that the razor blade does not gouge or scratch the gasket surfaces.
- Do not gouge or scrape the combustion chamber surfaces.
- Do not gouge or scratch any engine-sealing surface during the cleaning process.
Alternative Cleaning Method:
To properly clean the sealing surface prior to reassembly, GM Low VOC Cleaner, P/N♦19287401, in Canada, P/N 88901247 and in Australia, P/N 88900163, should be sprayed on the mating surface. Use care to avoid getting solvent in any area other than the mating surface to be cleaned. Allow it to soak in for several minutes to loosen the old RTV sealer/gasket material. GM strongly recommends using a plastic razor blade or non-metallic scraper to remove all loose sealer/gasket material.
Important: The appearance of the gasket surface is not critical - the feel is. There will be indentations from the gasket left after all the gasket material is removed. The new gasket will fill these small indentations when it is installed.
To properly clean the sealing surface prior to reassembly, GM Low VOC Cleaner, P/N♦19287401, in Canada, P/N 88901247 and in Australia, P/N 88900163, should be sprayed on the mating surface. Use care to avoid getting solvent in any area other than the mating surface to be cleaned. Allow it to soak in for several minutes to loosen the old RTV sealer/gasket material. GM strongly recommends using a plastic razor blade or non-metallic scraper to remove all loose sealer/gasket material.
Important: The appearance of the gasket surface is not critical - the feel is. There will be indentations from the gasket left after all the gasket material is removed. The new gasket will fill these small indentations when it is installed.
Do not use abrasive discs, abrasive pads, sandpaper, steel wool or similar products to "clean" block and head decks. GM has plenty of documentation elsewhere in that bulletin to prove that abrasive particles from those products end up in the engine oil and are distributed to bearings, bores, lifter faces, and camshaft lobes.
As for use of a "honing stone", "sharpening stone" or "Norton Stone"....that's a bad idea, too, IMO, because the microscopic aluminum particles that result from honing the decks end up in the oil.
No one would hone a block and then put the engine together without cleaning the block first. The reason you do that is to remove the aluminum residue left by honing. The same holds true for block and head decks, so...don't use a honing stone unless you disassemble the engine first, use the honing stone on the decks, then clean the block and/or head casting.
02-27-2023, 12:10 PM
#24
Safety Car
02-27-2023, 12:56 PM
#25
Melting Slicks
I was thinking the same thing lol what's done is done, at this point I would clean the hell out of everything use a good solvent then flush the coolant and engine oil a few times to get rid of whatever the sandpaper left behind.
honestly, it's a crap shoot either it runs great, you have no problems down the road or a rebuild/new engine in your future I hope all goes well for you tho...