PSYKED

some very good input from you all. sounds like the goal of 600whp + or - is more appropriate unless i went to a full on insane build.

HowWhyWhyHow

Yup. Pretty much destroys everything on the street at that that power. Downright dangerous as well lol.

jayyyw

I've made stock power all the way to 1400+ on this platform. 600-650whp NA is the sweet spot. Don't need an aggressive camshaft and you can basically drive the car anywhere at anytime. Trying to hit 700whp NA will take a pretty aggressive camshaft that will suck to drive, likely be hard on the valvetrain, and just a pain all around.

Under 1000whp with boost is a good number where you don't really have to worry about building the drivetrain and the overall setup will still be pretty mild and can still be driven most places.

REDZED2

800 rwhp boosted ls7 .. need pistons and arp rod bolts minimum.

RedZ4me

Start with a zr1

Apocolipse

Yup - may as well

Noblebro175

ZR1 prices are coming down sooo.....not to say there isn't several built Z06s on here for sale.....one making over 800whp , several 600+...here's a ZR1 making over 700whp on e85..listed here but this is a link on cargururs

https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...nk%2F336300265

Pb82 Ronin

Agree with everyone else. >700 rw is boosted territory if you don't want it to drive like poop. Can be done on motor alone, but the car becomes not user friendly. Coming from mustangs myself, I can tell you there is a MONSTER difference between the application of power. I had 4-digit daily driven power in my Cobra. I've also had 530-570 rw Z's. I would take a 570 rw ZO6 all day long. You're DEEP into the 10s (maybe even 9's with a driver mod) at the strip and can daily it. Not to mention I slaughtered many a 6-700 whp stang with 470-500 whp ZO6's. Trust the statements made here. Set your sights at 600 wheel...you'll be glad you did. You still need more? Hit it with the bottle, or some read end gears.

Ravenrider1k

Stock block crank and rods are good for 1200 have friends running forge pistons and arp stud everywhere doing it. We’re going to make 900-1000 at 12.5 comp like this on e85 with around 5-7psi. If I were you I would do heads cam headers msd intake nw103 and a v3si or ti and keep it below 3-5psi for 700whp on 91

Kevin Mason

I will regret opening my yap, but what exactly is your goal here? Is it just to make 700 rwhp, is it drag racing, road racing, 1/2 mile, something else?

FNBADAZ06

You'll need very deep pockets to make a reliable 700 rwhp N/A car that is remotely streetable.
If you want it just to say you have it, I'd recommend against it.
600 RWHP cars are extremely fast, and more streetable when staying at the 427 combo with 3.42 rear gears.

if you MUST have true 700 RWHP N/A car that is tame enough to drive regularly on the street, be prepared to go well north of 30K in mods........

signed,

700 RWHP N/A club member

Last 1

700rwhp with a 427 cid NA is a tall order and being streetable that’s another question.
I’m @ 650 rwhp and have the potential to make 30 more easy.
all I can tell you is if you go NA and shooting for 700rwhp .you better save some of your money and have 3.90s or 4.10s installed . and with the cam your going to have to run to get you there. a 2.97 first gear TR6060 and ZR1 gearing in fifth and sixth.80 /.60 .
that gearing would help you out with drivability,but with a big cam you will find out that neutral is your friend.when out cruising around.
i have run both transmissions 2.66 and the 2.97 /and the 2.97 help with the big cam when out cruising around.(where talking about driving thru parking lots)
good luck with your build

JMB

Did this with the SBE LS7 in my Monte SS with a 4.11 12 bolt so it's likely 715 at the wheels using 3.42's in a C6Z. Here's the link 700+ at the wheels

meine96ws6

Do you understand how much HP "700 hp" actually is??

Have you ever driven or owned or built anything with that type of power?

JABCAT

Mine is at 595 rwhp with maxed out injectors, so probably a little more than 600 with the right injectors. It's also only at 7lb of boost, so some easy tweaks can be made there for increased power.

I don't think a 700rwhp, NA Z06 will be very streetable & would probably become old quickly. But that's just me. I love the daily drivability of the supercharged car that pulls like a fighter jet when I want it to.

Interested in why the OP landed on 700rwhp with no intentions of taking it to the track?

FNBADAZ06

Big stroker cars like mine are much more tolerable on the street thanks to the abundant low end torque on even big cams.
This is why I made a general statement above that 700 rwhp N/A cars are possible....even streetable....but you have to spend some serious coin to get there.

Annolino122

IDK if its been said yet or not, but WHP in a C6Z06 is just different than any other car I have ridden in. It seems to swing outside of its weight class for WHP.

Ive ridden in 800whp dodges, a 720whp whipple 5.0, and in all honestly, my 595whp felt faster and in most scenarios, was faster

Do not get caught up on the WHP with a Z06, lean into the power and learn how to control the car and have fun with what it can do NA - lots of high HP builders will even tell you, there is something special about a proper Z06 NA build... they're just different

Noblebro175

OP states he previously had. Mustang GT500 with 700rwhp

FastCarsNMeanGuitars

Ok, I'm going to come at this in a different way here. Lets begin by putting the LS-7 in a crate. Lets also build a new LS while the car is running and driving the whole time before the Engine swap. Two things. You preserve the engine and you have your HI PO bullet under the hood. Either to sell with the car or to be kept for another project.

You can start out with a junkyard 5.3 aluminum truck block. Have it Sleeved so you can stroke it for 496+ cubic inches. Forged rotating assembly and A+ big valve rec port ported heads. Your going to need a pro race shop to do the high end machine work. And now you can put your Gigantic cam in here , over 680 in lift with this short block. These engines always get under cammed and starved with a tiny intake. You will also need direct ram air feeding a 4 inch intake tube just like the EFI pro stock guys do. It provides almost 80 psi boost at top speeds, which you will never see on a dyno just ' sucking '.

Brian Tooley put one of these motors in his C6, and he knows a thing or two.

The LS-7 is no longer available from GM and when it was last it was about 18k .

You should be able to build the above engine for under half that cost and have it live an long racing life of many rivers of tears cried by the ' other guys '.

Remember pro stock guys are making 1500 HP on 500 Cubes EFI these days.

double06

Is the truck block a taller deck height than the regular LS block? On the regular 5.3 (9.24 deck height) you can sleeve and stroke to a 468 but the parts that go with it get the price up there quickly.