cadyshac

I just ordered Red Line for my 427 engine and transmission. I used their tranny fluid in a TR6060 in a 5th gen SS Camaro with no complaints.

Bms_tuned

I dont think m1 is bad. Actually I've been running it since day one on my 900whp vette

grinder11

I totally agree. There must be a LOT of guys on here that are 50 years old, and younger. The synthetics today are so far ahead of oils 50 years ago (excepting Amsoil and M1, which were both available 50 years ago, but formulated differently then, of course), higher ZDDP, or not, that there is no comparison. 50 years ago, oil manufacturers claimed for every 10° above 200° in oil temps cut the useful life of the oil in half!! I'm here to tell you that even conventional oils back then didnt cause widespread engine seizures and abnormal wear, and I was using it in air cooled, 10,000rpm motorcycle engines. Which usually shared the engine oil with the clutch and transmission!! Mobil 1 is a fine oil, good enough for 99-1/2% of driving. Sure, there may be somewhat better oils for certain, very limited ventures. But to say it's not a good, decent oil is just plain wrong. No oil is "fantastic!"

Burntoutaccountant

What would you guys run in a newly built 7.0? Not to hijack but I was going to make a post about this.

grinder11

If it was my engine, I'd run a good conventional, non synthetic oil for the first 750 miles. I'd also try to fit a magnetic drain plug in the oil system/sump somewhere. I have a wet sump LS7 engine, so don't know where or what you'd do for a magnetic drain plug in the dry sump LS7. I'd then change the oil and filter, and fill it with a good synthetic oil. I'd recommend Mobil 1, but some guys here seem to think its marginal, and not "fantastic." BTW, if you do happen to find a "fantastic" oil, please let us all know. Sorry for the sarcasm, but some guys here.......Anyway, I've run M1 for over 20 years, and at least 50 dragstrip runs. I have 52,000 miles on my current, 600+ hp LS7, and use-MAYBE-1/2qt. between 4,000 mile changes. Nothing but M1 0w-40. No oil related issues, EVER!! I also have no vested interest or stock in Exxon/Mobil. My opinion only.....

Burntoutaccountant

I was on the fence about Amsoil. Almost ran it in one of my ls2 GTOs but stayed with mobile one.

As a service advisor I have no hesitation to put it in a newer non performance car. My hesitation was it’s such a specialized engine. Why run 40 in it?

Z.06

My engine builder (Late Model Engines of Houston) is completely definitive about this. and I quote:

Must use NONSYNTHETIC oil for the first 1000 miles.
Joe Gibbs BR30 (10w-30) break in oil Recommended.
Change oil before dyno tuning
Change oil after first 500 miles
Change oil again after 1000 miles
After 1000 mile break-in is complete, full synthetic oil is permitted.

So apparently, LME thinks the oil selection is important during the initial break-in, which is primarily for the rings.

Hib Halverson

Can you describe the type of ring package and the cylinder wall preparation in more detail? I'm interested to know that info because the need for a break-in oil is often driven by the type of rings and the bore prep.

Also, know that JGR sold the Driven deal a number of years ago. Driven Racing Oil is now owned by COMP and no longer uses "Joe Gibbs" in its branding. Finally the guy Coach Gibbs originally hired to formulate the original Gibbs DRIVEN products, Lake Speed Jr., left the company after Driven was sold and is now working for Total Seal Piston Rings and, also, has his own oil analysis business, SPEEDiagnostix. He's also active on YouTube with a whole series of informative video content on engine oils.

grinder11

Good informative post, Hib!!

grinder11

I agree, which is why I posted (#25) running non synthetic first, though my change over mileage differs a bit. Which is really insignificant. Unless you're beating on the car during break-in. Also, some builders recommend a non-detergent oil for the first 500 miles. Kurt Urban being one of them when he was running Wheel to Wheel, a well known engine builder back in the 2000's.....

Vito.A

Add 1/2 bottle of this: Lucas Engine Break-In Oil Additive
Motor Oil Additive, ZDDP, Engine Break-In, 16 oz
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10063-1

Bruno417

Isn’t ZDDP harmful to catalytic converters?

Z.06

Piston rings are Wiseco 4032GFX
Bore (in.):
4.030 in.
Bore (mm):
102.362mm
File Fit:
Yes
Gapless:
No
Gas Ported:
No
Top Ring Included:
Yes
Top Ring Thickness:
1.2mm
Top Ring Material:
Steel
Top Ring Facing Material:
Gas nitrided
Second Ring Included:
Yes
Second Ring Thickness:
1.2mm
Third ring is a 3 mm oil control ring.

As to the cylinder wall preparation, I am pretty sure that if I asked, that LME would tell me that it is proprietary information. I am very sure that LME knows what they are doing.