I would like to know how well everyone's heads are doing that have been fix??
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
I would like to know how well everyone's heads are doing that have been fix??
I'm interested in seeing how guys or gals heads are holding up. If you don't mind just say:
Company or person that fixed your heads-
Aftermarket or stock cam if aftermarket please list the cam-
how many miles are on the heads-
Type of driving that the heads mostly see-
I Issues if any that the heads have had-
Company or person that fixed your heads-
Aftermarket or stock cam if aftermarket please list the cam-
how many miles are on the heads-
Type of driving that the heads mostly see-
I Issues if any that the heads have had-
#2
Burning Brakes
I had my heads done at AHP with 7k miles on the clock and went with the BTR stage 2 cam. 2 summers ago, at about 19k miles, I decided to switch to cnc ported WCCH heads and 102mm tb. It picked up a peak of 15hp,10tq but picked up 20hp and 30tq in other areas past 5k RPM. Every titanium intake valve was trashed. The coating was wore off of the face and every single valve tip was indented. I frequently take it on spirited drives 6 months out of the year, never drag race and never take it to redline. I am very OCD and meticulous about how I take care of my car. Currently, there are 28k miles on it and I've done 11 Blackstone oil analyses just to give you an idea.
The following 4 users liked this post by AQWIKZ:
American Heritage (01-04-2022),
Blackship (01-21-2023),
tommyc6z06 (01-05-2022),
v4e2r7t (01-05-2022)
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
I had my heads done at AHP with 7k miles on the clock and went with the BTR stage 2 cam. 2 summers ago, at about 19k miles, I decided to switch to cnc ported WCCH heads and 102mm tb. It picked up a peak of 15hp,10tq but picked up 20hp and 30tq in other areas past 5k RPM. Every titanium intake valve was trashed. The coating was wore off of the face and every single valve tip was indented. I frequently take it on spirited drives 6 months out of the year, never drag race and never take it to redline. I am very OCD and meticulous about how I take care of my car. Currently, there are 28k miles on it and I've done 11 Blackstone oil analyses just to give you an idea.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
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American Heritage (01-04-2022)
#6
Burning Brakes
Last edited by SPDKLZ1; 01-06-2022 at 11:02 AM.
#7
Great thread!
Interested in hearing long term feedback on Race Proven Motorsport's 280 cc Advanced Induction heads package as I believe they use the factory titanium intake valves.
I just put this package on my c6z last year but don't do more than maybe 4000 miles per year, hoping I can get many years from them even with 7100 rpm visits and the B3 cam (Btr .660 valve springs).
Interested in hearing long term feedback on Race Proven Motorsport's 280 cc Advanced Induction heads package as I believe they use the factory titanium intake valves.
I just put this package on my c6z last year but don't do more than maybe 4000 miles per year, hoping I can get many years from them even with 7100 rpm visits and the B3 cam (Btr .660 valve springs).
#8
Race Director
WCCH did my heads when Cordes Performance Racing did my HCI build at 46K miles in May 2016. All exhaust valve guides and 6 of 8 intake valve guides were out of spec. 12K miles later I had the bottom end forged, heads back to WCCH just to be checked, all guides .0011-.0016" clearance, so great. Car is still running strong with 22K miles on the redone heads.
CHE bronze guides
Katech TiMo intake valves
new OEM exhaust valves
Katech 501K cam
all other appropriate mods
593/513 rwhp/tq
The car sees easy driving on the street, mostly below 3K rpm. Maybe 10 road course days on the build running 4-7K+ rpm in three or four 20-minute sessions. Another half dozen Silver State events with engine running 150 MPH/4700RPM continuous for 36 minutes per run. 1/2, 1, and 1.5Mile straight line runs revving to 7300 RPM FSO.
CHE bronze guides
Katech TiMo intake valves
new OEM exhaust valves
Katech 501K cam
all other appropriate mods
593/513 rwhp/tq
The car sees easy driving on the street, mostly below 3K rpm. Maybe 10 road course days on the build running 4-7K+ rpm in three or four 20-minute sessions. Another half dozen Silver State events with engine running 150 MPH/4700RPM continuous for 36 minutes per run. 1/2, 1, and 1.5Mile straight line runs revving to 7300 RPM FSO.
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v4e2r7t (01-05-2022)
#9
Instructor
Texas Speed did mine. Running a cam that perfectly splits their 2.2 and 3.2 with original intake valves, and apparently some new exhaust valves that I only now just read through and learned I have lol. 15k miles on it so far with pretty hard driving, I usually wring out 2nd and 3rd on most drives and it's my daily outside of the winter.
Last edited by Bingo002; 01-05-2022 at 01:40 PM.
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v4e2r7t (01-05-2022)
#11
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2017
Location: Baie-D'Urfe, Quebec
Posts: 1,602
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2023 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C6 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
I have about 8k miles total on my AHP pkg 4 heads...including about 10 track days (4 x 20/25min sessions) between 4k-7k rpm.
So far so good...no noises and I guess I'll do oil analysis next oil change
So far so good...no noises and I guess I'll do oil analysis next oil change
#12
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: Chester County Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,000
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2020 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
AHP Package 4 Heads, Stage 3 cam, retained intake valves changed exhaust valves; only about 800 miles, however most of it straight line racing, 3800 miles on the motor/car. I am more worried about the rods at this point.
#13
Burning Brakes
Original fix by GM under warranty at 13k miles, new heads, all new valves, all new springs, etc.
Valve guide wear out of tolerance at 29k miles, so heads, valve guides, exhaust valves. cam and lifters replaced at 29k miles.
Now at 48K miles, the stage IV heads with MS90 valve guides are seriously out of tolerance again, and the intake valve stems are severely damaged, beyond the coating thickness. So all new intake and exhaust valves are required.
All of the above has been fixed at my expense. This includes new Ti intake valves, new exhaust valves, new valve guides, new valve seats, new valve lifters, and new pushrods. Not a minor cost!
After my experiences, I would advise CF users to invest in used oil analysis after the "fix" to make sure that their engine is not shedding excess copper into the engine oil. Moldstar 90 is 90% copper. Just saying.
Valve guide wear out of tolerance at 29k miles, so heads, valve guides, exhaust valves. cam and lifters replaced at 29k miles.
Now at 48K miles, the stage IV heads with MS90 valve guides are seriously out of tolerance again, and the intake valve stems are severely damaged, beyond the coating thickness. So all new intake and exhaust valves are required.
All of the above has been fixed at my expense. This includes new Ti intake valves, new exhaust valves, new valve guides, new valve seats, new valve lifters, and new pushrods. Not a minor cost!
After my experiences, I would advise CF users to invest in used oil analysis after the "fix" to make sure that their engine is not shedding excess copper into the engine oil. Moldstar 90 is 90% copper. Just saying.
The following users liked this post:
LS7_guy (02-27-2023)
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
Original fix by GM under warranty at 13k miles, new heads, all new valves, all new springs, etc.
Valve guide wear out of tolerance at 29k miles, so heads, valve guides, exhaust valves. cam and lifters replaced at 29k miles.
Now at 48K miles, the stage IV heads with MS90 valve guides are seriously out of tolerance again, and the intake valve stems are severely damaged, beyond the coating thickness. So all new intake and exhaust valves are required.
All of the above has been fixed at my expense. This includes new Ti intake valves, new exhaust valves, new valve guides, new valve seats, new valve lifters, and new pushrods. Not a minor cost!
After my experiences, I would advise CF users to invest in used oil analysis after the "fix" to make sure that their engine is not shedding excess copper into the engine oil. Moldstar 90 is 90% copper. Just saying.
Valve guide wear out of tolerance at 29k miles, so heads, valve guides, exhaust valves. cam and lifters replaced at 29k miles.
Now at 48K miles, the stage IV heads with MS90 valve guides are seriously out of tolerance again, and the intake valve stems are severely damaged, beyond the coating thickness. So all new intake and exhaust valves are required.
All of the above has been fixed at my expense. This includes new Ti intake valves, new exhaust valves, new valve guides, new valve seats, new valve lifters, and new pushrods. Not a minor cost!
After my experiences, I would advise CF users to invest in used oil analysis after the "fix" to make sure that their engine is not shedding excess copper into the engine oil. Moldstar 90 is 90% copper. Just saying.
#15
Melting Slicks
6900 miles only on my 2016 280 AI heads. Guides still tight so far. 100% satisfied.
#16
Original fix by GM under warranty at 13k miles, new heads, all new valves, all new springs, etc.
Valve guide wear out of tolerance at 29k miles, so heads, valve guides, exhaust valves. cam and lifters replaced at 29k miles.
Now at 48K miles, the stage IV heads with MS90 valve guides are seriously out of tolerance again, and the intake valve stems are severely damaged, beyond the coating thickness. So all new intake and exhaust valves are required.
All of the above has been fixed at my expense. This includes new Ti intake valves, new exhaust valves, new valve guides, new valve seats, new valve lifters, and new pushrods. Not a minor cost!
After my experiences, I would advise CF users to invest in used oil analysis after the "fix" to make sure that their engine is not shedding excess copper into the engine oil. Moldstar 90 is 90% copper. Just saying.
Valve guide wear out of tolerance at 29k miles, so heads, valve guides, exhaust valves. cam and lifters replaced at 29k miles.
Now at 48K miles, the stage IV heads with MS90 valve guides are seriously out of tolerance again, and the intake valve stems are severely damaged, beyond the coating thickness. So all new intake and exhaust valves are required.
All of the above has been fixed at my expense. This includes new Ti intake valves, new exhaust valves, new valve guides, new valve seats, new valve lifters, and new pushrods. Not a minor cost!
After my experiences, I would advise CF users to invest in used oil analysis after the "fix" to make sure that their engine is not shedding excess copper into the engine oil. Moldstar 90 is 90% copper. Just saying.
Last edited by grinder11; 01-15-2022 at 08:39 AM.
#17
Race Director
I was not willing to re-use the OEM Ti valves that had been run in out of spec guides so I went with the Katech TiMo intake valves ($$$) and CHE bronze guides, checked out fine by WCCH (.0011-.0016) after 12K miles and running great 22K miles on the build.
#18
Instructor
the 4K valves I sent in. This go round , I sourced New AHP TI valves, Johnson regular travel link bar lifters and K-tech Red pump to compensate for oil axel lifters. This is what I wanted to do first time around and should have. AHP gives you the option, it’s just a $$$ decision. The guides (pm) we’re all good after 4K, the GM/Delwest are good lapping tools or lightweight paper weights now.
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American Heritage (01-06-2022)
#19
Supporting Vendor
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Harbor City California
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This - Had AHP apply Package 4, (cringed at the term “fix”), put another 4K on the engine and had a lifter go. The GM TI valves even tumble polished never sat well with me and I exchanged my heads so I’m not sure if the valves used were <\> the
the 4K valves I sent in. This go round , I sourced New AHP TI valves, Johnson regular travel link bar lifters and K-tech Red pump to compensate for oil axel lifters. This is what I wanted to do first time around and should have. AHP gives you the option, it’s just a $$$ decision. The guides (pm) we’re all good after 4K, the GM/Delwest are good lapping tools or lightweight paper weights now.
the 4K valves I sent in. This go round , I sourced New AHP TI valves, Johnson regular travel link bar lifters and K-tech Red pump to compensate for oil axel lifters. This is what I wanted to do first time around and should have. AHP gives you the option, it’s just a $$$ decision. The guides (pm) we’re all good after 4K, the GM/Delwest are good lapping tools or lightweight paper weights now.
They work with both PM and MS90 guides and are just superior in every single aspect to the GM CRN coated ti intake valves.
Dont get me wrong though we have had very few issues over the years treating/tumble polishing and reusing the factory GM CRN coated LS7 ti intakes but they are a possible failure point due to GM's poor manufacture specs (penny pinching is actually a much more accurate term) on the factory CRN coating.
https://americanheritageperformance.com/
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
You guys are talking about the intake valve coating. So I popped all my valves out of my stock heads real quick. I was wondering how can I tell if there's any coating left on them?