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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
I'm new on the forum as of today, and a few days ago picked up an '08 Z06.
This is my first LS platform of any kind, so still learning as I go. All my recent experience is with cars from across the pond.
To preface, my car has 58k miles, is cammed, with intake, headers, x-pipe as supporting mods. As of right know that's all I know. The dealer I bought it from is currently trying to get more of a history as to what parts are on the car and who did the work, but as of now it is unknown.
It drives fantastic with no slouch on power.
My questions are these
Head/Cam kit - Its to my understanding that most people do not do a cam without headwork. But if so, is it possible to find out if the heads are stock from a visual examination? If they are stock heads, any cause for concern on engine longevity with the cam?
Clutch - Going to need a new one. It was guessed the car is in the high 500 wheel range. As there are so many options, what is a good option for a stock-ish driving clutch that can hold the power while also good for daily driving? (was looking at kits from Luk, or McLeod RST)
Valve noise - I've heard several comments on this, that LS engines just sound like sewing machines as is, or that the larger cam will provide a much more audible tick over stock. Is it normal or need to be addressed?
General maint.at current miles - been difficult to find a "service intervals" sheet, wanting to start fresh on the cars service. Any major items of note? (besides oil, coolant, brake fluid etc.)
Longevity of cammed engine - I plan on driving the car frequently, almost daily. Are there any concerns over longevity with a big cam and/or does that bring up more things that need to be checked/replaced every so often?
Thank you for reading and hope I can get some good answers. Pardon my ignorance if most of the above is common knowledge.
Can't address most of this, being in a stock-engined car. But I will say that my valvetrain noise dropped immensely when I put rebuilt heads on. The common head "fix" is redoing the guides/valves of stock castings, which doesn't generally leave any external marking. The presence of ARP head bolts (black heads) instead of OEM TTYs (silver) can be one indicator that they've been off.
You really need to find out what cam is in it and if the heads have had the guides addressed. Usually if they've been swapped you'll see markings where the accessory brackets mount. Do a search for the ls7 valve issue and you'll find everything you need to know. At the minimum with a cam you'll want to change valve springs every 15-20k. As for clutch, I have and will recommend the monster lt1-s. Holds 700 wheel torque and drives damn near like stock . This is not a job you want to do and find out you don't like the clutch manners.
As above, I'm at 593rwhp with a Katech K501 cam. I drive easy o the street and use all the performance in 1/2 mile and longer trap speed events and on road courses where I run 4-7K RPM all the time. At 21K miles I had the aftermarket valves springs replaced as preventative maintenance for a build of this level.
I have a McLoed RXT1000 twin dick clutch with billet steel flywheel and like that combo very much for street and road courses. It is nicely slipable and throw is maybe a little lighter than stock.If you are interested in 1/4 mile ET, I don't know about how it works in that application.
I'm new on the forum as of today, and a few days ago picked up an '08 Z06.
This is my first LS platform of any kind, so still learning as I go. All my recent experience is with cars from across the pond.
To preface, my car has 58k miles, is cammed, with intake, headers, x-pipe as supporting mods. As of right know that's all I know. The dealer I bought it from is currently trying to get more of a history as to what parts are on the car and who did the work, but as of now it is unknown.
It drives fantastic with no slouch on power.
My questions are these
Head/Cam kit - Its to my understanding that most people do not do a cam without headwork. But if so, is it possible to find out if the heads are stock from a visual examination? If they are stock heads, any cause for concern on engine longevity with the cam?
Clutch - Going to need a new one. It was guessed the car is in the high 500 wheel range. As there are so many options, what is a good option for a stock-ish driving clutch that can hold the power while also good for daily driving? (was looking at kits from Luk, or McLeod RST)
Valve noise - I've heard several comments on this, that LS engines just sound like sewing machines as is, or that the larger cam will provide a much more audible tick over stock. Is it normal or need to be addressed?
General maint.at current miles - been difficult to find a "service intervals" sheet, wanting to start fresh on the cars service. Any major items of note? (besides oil, coolant, brake fluid etc.)
Longevity of cammed engine - I plan on driving the car frequently, almost daily. Are there any concerns over longevity with a big cam and/or does that bring up more things that need to be checked/replaced every so often?
Thank you for reading and hope I can get some good answers. Pardon my ignorance if most of the above is common knowledge.
As far as the heads are concerned, and many may argue this point, you don't need any additional porting work, as the castings are CNC ported from GM. Can additional porting make them even better? Sure, but not by a huge amount. Sure, you can gain some small amount of power, but it's not going to make a night and day difference, like porting did for your 1963 327 SBC. The LS7 heads flow awesome as delivered. IMHO, you can gain an easy 90-100hp with just a cam change. However-These heads do have issues with longevity, so if I were in your position, the first thing I'd do is see of you can find out if the guides are still original, or not. If they're not OEM, that's probably a good indicator the heads have had a good, concentric seat to guide valve job. If the heads are still stock, spend your money on "fixing" the heads, not on additional porting. Hopefully, your investigation into who did what, with which parts, will be fruitful. Welcome to the forum.....
The heads are highly weak and restrictive on the entire exhaust port. If stock. Fresh rebuild. Not saying where. Full exhaust port.. don't touch intake runners! Mill .025 .030. Result with tune about 40 hp. .025 shorter pushrods if lifters are stock LS7s.
enjoy you Z.
You really need to find out what cam is in it and if the heads have had the guides addressed. Usually if they've been swapped you'll see markings where the accessory brackets mount. Do a search for the ls7 valve issue and you'll find everything you need to know. At the minimum with a cam you'll want to change valve springs every 15-20k. As for clutch, I have and will recommend the monster lt1-s. Holds 700 wheel torque and drives damn near like stock . This is not a job you want to do and find out you don't like the clutch manners.
Personally I just can’t see someone doing the build he has without addressing the heads. But that’s just me. Just hard to imagine a cam swap without the heads.
Personally I just can’t see someone doing the build he has without addressing the heads. But that’s just me. Just hard to imagine a cam swap without the heads.
I agree, however, who did the work is probably more important. Just because the heads may have been “addressed” doesn’t mean it was done correctly.
Re: the clutch. GM revised the master cylinder and issued a 10 yr/120k mi extended coverage. Your car is beyond that coverage, but I’d recommend getting the new part if your car has the original mc (clear fluid reservoir). The new part is #19331709 & is about $100.
I agree, however, who did the work is probably more important. Just because the heads may have been “addressed” doesn’t mean it was done correctly.
Re: the clutch. GM revised the master cylinder and issued a 10 yr/120k mi extended coverage. Your car is beyond that coverage, but I’d recommend getting the new part if your car has the original mc (clear fluid reservoir). The new part is #19331709 & is about $100.
Well Jab, after seeing you post this time and time again on the forum, I finally broke down today and bought the new recommended OEM MC. And…….you were right……right at $100
Thanks for posting this, and posting it often. You have probably (hopefully) kept me from being stranded because of it.
The heads are highly weak and restrictive on the entire exhaust port. If stock. Fresh rebuild. Not saying where. Full exhaust port.. don't touch intake runners! Mill .025 .030. Result with tune about 40 hp. .025 shorter pushrods if lifters are stock LS7s.
enjoy you Z.
I realize the exhaust is weak in relation to the intake. But I'm just saying a 25-30hp gain for the roughly $2k for additional port work isn't a great ROI. As you've said, they include a.025"- 030" mill. That alone is probably 10-15hp of the 40hp gain you're quoting, and the milling is probably just $175-$200. To each their own.......
Could we see some pics...my first Z06 was an 08 and it had the same upgrades that you have plus head studs like the builder was thinking of boost at some time...car had no problems when i got it..loved that car so much i actually purchased it twice..would love to see some pics and where did you purchase it ...my 08 was sold to a guy in New York..heres a pic of it
I realize the exhaust is weak in relation to the intake. But I'm just saying a 25-30hp gain for the roughly $2k for additional port work isn't a great ROI. As you've said, they include a.025"- 030" mill. That alone is probably 10-15hp of the 40hp gain you're quoting, and the milling is probably just $175-$200. To each their own.......
Milling is $75 most places if want simple rebuild. No port work.
11-15-2021, 12:56 PM
New to me Z06...few questions
