ZR1 Battery
#2
Melting Slicks
I've been using an Optima AGM battery. Technically you are supposed to use an external vented battery but I have a friend at Optima and he uses an Optima in his Z06. I first used a yellow top and currently have a red top.
If it fails Amazon just sends a new one.
If it fails Amazon just sends a new one.
#3
Le Mans Master
#4
Racer
I have a ‘10 ZR1 that had the original battery in it when I bought it in’15. I replaced it with a yellow top Optima and after 6 months, I replaced it. It would not hold a enough charge over 12 days to start the car. I went to AutoZone and found a Duralast AGM battery (35-AGM) that fits in the C6. Have gone 2 weeks + with plenty of power to start the car. I don’t trickle charge.
Ed
Ed
#5
I bought a yellow top Optima for my '09 ZR1. I didn't trickle charge and it died on me. Amazon sent a brand new one to replace it and been trickle charging this one since then.
On another car, '07 WRX, I had a red top Optima that lasted a good 8 years with an aftermarket stereo with 2 10" subwoofers that discharged it fairly hard. I replaced that another AGM, ?Duralast? that was working well up and until I sold it.
I think the Optima brand has gone downhill in quality. The manufacturing plant was moved some years back to Mexico I believe. Read many posts of people who bought Optimas after the move and high death count. I'd just get some AGM battery that fits, group 8040, and call it done.
On another car, '07 WRX, I had a red top Optima that lasted a good 8 years with an aftermarket stereo with 2 10" subwoofers that discharged it fairly hard. I replaced that another AGM, ?Duralast? that was working well up and until I sold it.
I think the Optima brand has gone downhill in quality. The manufacturing plant was moved some years back to Mexico I believe. Read many posts of people who bought Optimas after the move and high death count. I'd just get some AGM battery that fits, group 8040, and call it done.
#6
Instructor
I used the Duralast Gold T5-DLG, installed earlier this year. Left car off the trickle charger for 3 weeks, now it's dead and won't recharge either.
Considering: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ody-96r600 - but doesn't look like it has a vent tube. Anyone use it?
Considering: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ody-96r600 - but doesn't look like it has a vent tube. Anyone use it?
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GettnBetter (01-21-2022)
#8
7th Gear
I used the Duralast Gold T5-DLG, installed earlier this year. Left car off the trickle charger for 3 weeks, now it's dead and won't recharge either.
Considering: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ody-96r600 - but doesn't look like it has a vent tube. Anyone use it?
Considering: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ody-96r600 - but doesn't look like it has a vent tube. Anyone use it?
The following 2 users liked this post by Orpheuss:
GettnBetter (01-21-2022),
Too-Fast (01-14-2022)
#9
I also used to be a red top and yellow top loyalist, however as alluded to earlier in this thread, I to think they have gone downhill. Take a look also at the Napa auto parts legend series.
#10
Race Director
I used the Duralast Gold T5-DLG, installed earlier this year. Left car off the trickle charger for 3 weeks, now it's dead and won't recharge either.
Considering: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ody-96r600 - but doesn't look like it has a vent tube. Anyone use it?
Considering: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ody-96r600 - but doesn't look like it has a vent tube. Anyone use it?
#11
Instructor
I got the Odyssey now and it's great. I can leave the car off the charger for 2-3 weeks and the car will start. Any longer and I get Corvette withdrawals and just drive the car.
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GettnBetter (01-21-2022)
#12
Pro
Member Since: Jul 2016
Location: Treasure Island, Lake McQueeney, Tx
Posts: 634
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147 Posts
I use Walmart's T5, most likely made by the same people that make the Duralast. It's cheaper, they keep them in stock, three year warranty, and of course, there is a Walmart everywhere. I do keep my ZR1 on a battery tender. Good luck.
#13
Pro
OK, this is outside of the question put here but it is related. It is a warning for ZR1 owners when it comes to battery charging. It does Not apply to Z06 owners. Unless my ZR1 is an aberration and I don't think it is, the factory has overrode the regulator when it comes to maximum charging voltage. This is easy to confirm on your DIC. If it is like mine it will stay in the vicinity of 13.8 volts when the engine is running, not the 14.4 to 14.5 that a battery needs to get fully charged. My specialty in the marine boating industry is setting up cruising sailboats to live away from any normal power source and keep the 12 volt ships batteries fully charged while providing all the power to operate and live aboard ship. Not perodically fully charging a battery is the best way to shorten its life (unless it is a Lithium battery).
When I bought my ZR1 I thought something was wrong with my car because of the 13.8 volts shown on the DIC. Took it to a dealer to find the problem. They thoroughly checked every potential source for voltage leak and discovered none. They informed me that the control module had an override entry to limit voltage to 13.8 volts. I explained to them that was the wrong value and to change it. Their answer was I was correct about the proper charging voltage but as a Mr Goodwrench Technician, they were not allowed to change this GM factory setting. They told me if I ever had the car tuned, whoever was doing that could easily change that number while they were in the system.
I use a battery tender to keep the battery charged but every so often I put my electronic battery charger on it and bring it up to the mid 14's at a 2 Amp charge or less to finish the charging process and therefore extend the batteries life longer than it otherwise would be. Most battery tenders aren't built to perform that Absorption mode of charging, only to maintain a Float charge. I highly recommend every ZR1 owner who cares how long his or her battery will last to do the same. The difference in life expectancy is anywhere from 50% longer to 100% longer depending on a lot of other variables.
Not doing this won't hurt any other part of the car but you will be much more experienced at replacing batteries.
My Z06's all charge at the proper voltage. It seems unique to my C6 ZR1.
When I bought my ZR1 I thought something was wrong with my car because of the 13.8 volts shown on the DIC. Took it to a dealer to find the problem. They thoroughly checked every potential source for voltage leak and discovered none. They informed me that the control module had an override entry to limit voltage to 13.8 volts. I explained to them that was the wrong value and to change it. Their answer was I was correct about the proper charging voltage but as a Mr Goodwrench Technician, they were not allowed to change this GM factory setting. They told me if I ever had the car tuned, whoever was doing that could easily change that number while they were in the system.
I use a battery tender to keep the battery charged but every so often I put my electronic battery charger on it and bring it up to the mid 14's at a 2 Amp charge or less to finish the charging process and therefore extend the batteries life longer than it otherwise would be. Most battery tenders aren't built to perform that Absorption mode of charging, only to maintain a Float charge. I highly recommend every ZR1 owner who cares how long his or her battery will last to do the same. The difference in life expectancy is anywhere from 50% longer to 100% longer depending on a lot of other variables.
Not doing this won't hurt any other part of the car but you will be much more experienced at replacing batteries.
My Z06's all charge at the proper voltage. It seems unique to my C6 ZR1.
#14
Racer
I'm a little surprise on all the replies. My car is a 09. I been replacing batteries with the OEM ACDelco vented one with zero issues. I figure stick to what has been dependable for me. No one mentioned sticking with OEM.
I can see changing battery manufacturer to get an extra year or two if it really does work out. It seems it's a crap shoot.
Good luck to all.
I can see changing battery manufacturer to get an extra year or two if it really does work out. It seems it's a crap shoot.
Good luck to all.
The following users liked this post:
RedZ4me (01-20-2022)
#15
Race Director
I'm a little surprise on all the replies. My car is a 09. I been replacing batteries with the OEM ACDelco vented one with zero issues. I figure stick to what has been dependable for me. No one mentioned sticking with OEM.
I can see changing battery manufacturer to get an extra year or two if it really does work out. It seems it's a crap shoot.
Good luck to all.
I can see changing battery manufacturer to get an extra year or two if it really does work out. It seems it's a crap shoot.
Good luck to all.
#16
OK, this is outside of the question put here but it is related. It is a warning for ZR1 owners when it comes to battery charging. It does Not apply to Z06 owners. Unless my ZR1 is an aberration and I don't think it is, the factory has overrode the regulator when it comes to maximum charging voltage. This is easy to confirm on your DIC. If it is like mine it will stay in the vicinity of 13.8 volts when the engine is running, not the 14.4 to 14.5 that a battery needs to get fully charged. My specialty in the marine boating industry is setting up cruising sailboats to live away from any normal power source and keep the 12 volt ships batteries fully charged while providing all the power to operate and live aboard ship. Not perodically fully charging a battery is the best way to shorten its life (unless it is a Lithium battery).
When I bought my ZR1 I thought something was wrong with my car because of the 13.8 volts shown on the DIC. Took it to a dealer to find the problem. They thoroughly checked every potential source for voltage leak and discovered none. They informed me that the control module had an override entry to limit voltage to 13.8 volts. I explained to them that was the wrong value and to change it. Their answer was I was correct about the proper charging voltage but as a Mr Goodwrench Technician, they were not allowed to change this GM factory setting. They told me if I ever had the car tuned, whoever was doing that could easily change that number while they were in the system.
I use a battery tender to keep the battery charged but every so often I put my electronic battery charger on it and bring it up to the mid 14's at a 2 Amp charge or less to finish the charging process and therefore extend the batteries life longer than it otherwise would be. Most battery tenders aren't built to perform that Absorption mode of charging, only to maintain a Float charge. I highly recommend every ZR1 owner who cares how long his or her battery will last to do the same. The difference in life expectancy is anywhere from 50% longer to 100% longer depending on a lot of other variables.
Not doing this won't hurt any other part of the car but you will be much more experienced at replacing batteries.
My Z06's all charge at the proper voltage. It seems unique to my C6 ZR1.
When I bought my ZR1 I thought something was wrong with my car because of the 13.8 volts shown on the DIC. Took it to a dealer to find the problem. They thoroughly checked every potential source for voltage leak and discovered none. They informed me that the control module had an override entry to limit voltage to 13.8 volts. I explained to them that was the wrong value and to change it. Their answer was I was correct about the proper charging voltage but as a Mr Goodwrench Technician, they were not allowed to change this GM factory setting. They told me if I ever had the car tuned, whoever was doing that could easily change that number while they were in the system.
I use a battery tender to keep the battery charged but every so often I put my electronic battery charger on it and bring it up to the mid 14's at a 2 Amp charge or less to finish the charging process and therefore extend the batteries life longer than it otherwise would be. Most battery tenders aren't built to perform that Absorption mode of charging, only to maintain a Float charge. I highly recommend every ZR1 owner who cares how long his or her battery will last to do the same. The difference in life expectancy is anywhere from 50% longer to 100% longer depending on a lot of other variables.
Not doing this won't hurt any other part of the car but you will be much more experienced at replacing batteries.
My Z06's all charge at the proper voltage. It seems unique to my C6 ZR1.
can the settings of the module be changed using a tech2 tool ?
#17
Race Director
passagemaker 43 (and marcoturbo) are right...good observations & advice, b-t-w.
I've had my ZR1's battery replaced three times in 11 years (OEM AC Delco Type 90...usually 590 or 600 CCAs) and I use a Battery Tender Plus all the time.
I do use an electronic battery charger on the new battery when installed (each time), but now I will use it once a month going forward.
(of course, the car does not get driven enough--only about 18K mi's.--but that's another matter)
...I learn something new every time I'm on the CF...
thx G
I've had my ZR1's battery replaced three times in 11 years (OEM AC Delco Type 90...usually 590 or 600 CCAs) and I use a Battery Tender Plus all the time.
I do use an electronic battery charger on the new battery when installed (each time), but now I will use it once a month going forward.
(of course, the car does not get driven enough--only about 18K mi's.--but that's another matter)
...I learn something new every time I'm on the CF...
thx G
The following users liked this post:
passagemaker43 (01-15-2022)
#18
Racer
I change mine every 5 years, need it or not. I don't need any issues that can develop from an older battery especially with our cars. I've used Duralast batteries on my previous trucks. I have nothing negative to say about them. I ran them until I noticed the 1st slow start & then replace, good longevity.
#19
Many posts about this. Odyssey is best in industry. All others are not as good