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[ZR1] now I'm one of the cool kids...

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Old 12-07-2020, 07:03 PM
  #41  
drewz06
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you need longer bolts too? happen to know the part number on the belt?

will let you know if the one I get happens to have any changes...

drew
Old 12-07-2020, 07:23 PM
  #42  
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You would think for that kind of money it would better engineered than that, no bolts either, but it’s an OOM replacement, lol!
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Old 12-07-2020, 07:29 PM
  #43  
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Let us know how long it takes to get it. My car was going to be down for a bit so I thought I would send it in for a rebuild and to see if I could get it anodized. They said yes to both. It has been there since October 2. Every time I called, I was told it would be going to anodizing and be 2-3 weeks. I called Dec 1 and asked about the status. I was told it was at anodizing and would be back to them this week. I could have been driving it otherwise. I since sold the blower and am waiting on the Kong 3100 so it's arrival isn't as important now.

I am sure they are busy but even with my almost infinite patience, I thought it was a little long for a rebuild anodization. I guess I shouldn't say anything anything until it is back in my hands.

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Old 12-12-2020, 09:05 AM
  #44  
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so I'm switching to iron rotors, going to order kong hd bricks shortly...

helm manuals on the way.... anything else I should get when swapping the bricks?

getting foils and divider while I'm at it...
Old 12-14-2020, 04:21 PM
  #45  
reasonable suspicion
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Originally Posted by drewz06
so I'm switching to iron rotors, going to order kong hd bricks shortly...

helm manuals on the way.... anything else I should get when swapping the bricks?

getting foils and divider while I'm at it...

might as well get the kong increased volume reservoir and the edelbrock heat exchanger too
Old 12-14-2020, 04:30 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by reasonable suspicion
might as well get the kong increased volume reservoir and the edelbrock heat exchanger too


i just clicked 'order' on the bricks and foils.... divider showed up today... very nice cnc work!

ill be picking up the res and hx in a few months once my bank account has recovered

any thoughts on a decent scale to get the weight of the cc rotors? hard to find a decent looking one that does grams up to 10k....

-drew
Old 12-14-2020, 04:31 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Rokket
Let us know how long it takes to get it. My car was going to be down for a bit so I thought I would send it in for a rebuild and to see if I could get it anodized. They said yes to both. It has been there since October 2. Every time I called, I was told it would be going to anodizing and be 2-3 weeks. I called Dec 1 and asked about the status. I was told it was at anodizing and would be back to them this week. I could have been driving it otherwise. I since sold the blower and am waiting on the Kong 3100 so it's arrival isn't as important now.

I am sure they are busy but even with my almost infinite patience, I thought it was a little long for a rebuild anodization. I guess I shouldn't say anything anything until it is back in my hands.
still silence from dc power crew....
Old 12-14-2020, 04:34 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by drewz06
still silence from dc power crew....
Yep, I am giving them until Jan 2 and then I will call again and "express concern" (my wife's phrasing as she said she doesn't complain or b!tch about things).
Old 12-14-2020, 04:49 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by drewz06


i just clicked 'order' on the bricks and foils.... divider showed up today... very nice cnc work!

ill be picking up the res and hx in a few months once my bank account has recovered

any thoughts on a decent scale to get the weight of the cc rotors? hard to find a decent looking one that does grams up to 10k....

-drew

they have nice ones on amazon for about 100 dollars
Old 12-18-2020, 12:42 AM
  #50  
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forgestars f 14 8x11 8x13 toyo proxes...
​​​​​​
carbon > iron conversion.. hawk dtc70/60 for the track... hps 5.0 for the street...



weight difference... yup






​​​​​​kong foils divider bricks next week...

flex conversion and tune after that....

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Old 12-18-2020, 08:53 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by drewz06
forgestars f 14 8x11 8x13 toyo proxes...
​​​​​​
carbon > iron conversion.. hawk dtc70/60 for the track... hps 5.0 for the street...



weight difference... yup






​​​​​​kong foils divider bricks next week...

flex conversion and tune after that....

you must have pretty deep pockets
Old 12-18-2020, 09:15 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by captain vette
you must have pretty deep pockets
nah just single / no kids... don't plan on retiring early....

gonna weigh the rotors and put all that up for sale... the pads look basically new...

the proxes are new to me... they sure make a lot of noise
Old 12-18-2020, 05:16 PM
  #53  
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Looks great.

Out of curiosity, what's the reason for removing the CCB and going iron?
Old 12-18-2020, 07:40 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by WrayG
Looks great.

Out of curiosity, what's the reason for removing the CCB and going iron?
thanks!

I want to be able to take it to the track without murdering the carbon rotors...

hoping I can resell the rotors and make the iron conversion cost back...

drew
Old 12-18-2020, 08:13 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by drewz06
thanks!

I want to be able to take it to the track without murdering the carbon rotors...

hoping I can resell the rotors and make the iron conversion cost back...

drew

you should keep the carbon rotors to reinstall for when you sell the car as it will be worth much less without the cc brakes
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Old 12-19-2020, 09:16 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Xander617
you should keep the carbon rotors to reinstall for when you sell the car as it will be worth much less without the cc brakes
I agree. The first thing I did after I bought my ZR1 was to track down all of the original parts for it (wheels, exhaust, engine cowl). That way whoever buys it from me (if I ever decided to sell it, which right now isn't even on my radar) will have the option of keeping it modified or returning it to stock. Whatever cash the CCBs bring he'd lose it again. These brakes aren't cheap.
Old 12-19-2020, 10:50 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Xander617
you should keep the carbon rotors to reinstall for when you sell the car as it will be worth much less without the cc brakes
Absolutely agree. No CCB's would be a deal killer for a lot of folks. Just sayin'.
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Old 12-19-2020, 01:08 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by 09Z06pj
Get some OEM Comp Grays and call it a day. (Sorry. I'm just an OEM kinda guy)


Nice car OP!
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Old 12-21-2020, 09:56 AM
  #59  
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thanks all! i don't really have any intention of selling either c6 so that doesn't bother me too much...

the iron conversion with hawk dtc70/60 actually have a significantly greater stopping effect in my opinion.... but i also bled out some of the nastiest smelling brake fluid ever... was damn near black!

and im sure the ss brake lines helped with that too

i know its gonna sound odd, but so far i greatly prefer the iron kit... don't really care about brake dust so thats not a problem...

will be switching over to hawk hps this weekend for daily driving...

i've gotta chop up my video from the track day at PBIR, will get that up sometime this week...

i'm not used to these r888's they felt fine for a lap or two, then would get really greasy feeling... i got the psi down to 31, and that did seem to help as well, but i dont know the back story on the tires so they could just need to be replaced...

on another note... how does the edelbrock HX connect up to the lid? it didn't look like the 3/4 barb fittings were "stock connectors"... i figure if i'm going to be draining the system, i might as well add the HX and thinking about the expansion tank too...

-drew
Old 12-30-2020, 09:02 PM
  #60  
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The alternator I shipped on Sept 29 and DC Power received on October 2nd arrived yesterday. Just shy of 3 months. There was nothing modified on the housing to accommodate taller heads or valve covers. They didn't send me back the spacers either but did include new bolts. However, the bolts are stock length. I went and bought 1/2" and 3/4" spacers. I used 1/2" before but the clearance was something like .012".

With a 1/2" spacer, the belt size is 6PK1650 or K060650 (effective length 65").
With a 3/4" spacer, the K060650 belt is just a little short and might go on using WD40 but that is with the tensioner all the way as loose as it goes. I found a 6PK1675 belt has an effective length of 66.13" or a K060660 (66.19"). The next size up is a K060663 with an effective length of 66.33". I ordered both to see which works best with the 3/4" spacer.





Last edited by Rokket; 12-30-2020 at 09:05 PM.
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