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LS7 titanium rod failure

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Old 11-09-2018, 11:03 AM
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FNBADAZ06
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The coating is going to wear off at some point in time regardless if you run the very best oil available......it's just a matter of when. Those of us who have significant power enhancements put additional stresses on that rotating assembly, then add how often you exercise the engine in the upper RPM ranges, and that just accelerates the wear. Just like the guide issue, it pays to keep an eye on it and routine oil analysis can give you a heads up on potential rod issues before it becomes catastrophic.
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Old 11-09-2018, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan_the_C5_Man
Victor, putting this out there, since you didn't mention it (intentionally, I assume).

From your description of events, one could ask "what part did the new components (swapping rod bolts, etc.) and the machining and setup work done by the shop play in this failure?".

I realise that we've witnessed plenty of failures of this type on un-touched bottom ends, but it's the elephant in the room..
I really can't say, but I don't think any of the machine work contributed to the failure. I think that it might be wise to address the titanium rods during any rebuild, recoating or replacement, as I believe that other than visual inspection for any scrub marks, you cannot tell how much of the anti-friction coating is still present (besides high titanium content in the oil analysis).
Old 11-09-2018, 01:28 PM
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Default 09 z06 oil analysis

I've also heard that Ti retainers installed during the "Head Fix" could be a likely source of lower levels of Ti. I seen someone on the forum mention somewhere. Just can't remember. Anyone else heard that?
Old 11-09-2018, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Gray.casey21
I've also heard that Ti retainers installed during the "Head Fix" could be a likely source of lower levels of Ti. I seen someone on the forum mention somewhere. Just can't remember. Anyone else heard that?
That makes sense since the oil film is all that is protecting those surfaces.
Old 11-09-2018, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Gray.casey21
I've also heard that Ti retainers installed during the "Head Fix" could be a likely source of lower levels of Ti. I seen someone on the forum mention somewhere. Just can't remember. Anyone else heard that?
I considered that also, but figured it would wear in during early HCI running. When I had my forged bottom end done, the Ti rods did show some wear areas. The heads were rechecked by WCCH that did the original head work and they reported all was well. I presume this included the Ti retainers. 12K mile s on the HCI work before I went with the forged bottom end.

I do have the Ti rods for sale, would expect they would need to be coated. I have to figure out how to remove the wrist pin retainers, though unless someone wanted the pistons, too.
Old 11-09-2018, 08:32 PM
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Yes the ti retainers wear at the spring surface due to the steel vs ti interaction there.
Old 11-12-2018, 09:51 AM
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Vic, did you see, hear any symptoms that this was going on? Or was it simply a pre maint ( pro active) thing. That is pretty scary actually.... Think i'll do the Blackstone thing next time I change the oil... If nothing else I will have piece of mind.
Old 11-12-2018, 01:09 PM
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Jumping in a bit late...but for $5K there are much cheaper alternatives that are a "better value" than titanium stockers. For instance, you can get a completely custom set (as in measured and made for you specifically) of billet rods for about $3K. And you can buy some Callies Ultra rods for about $2K a set. Both options will handle all the power you can throw at them and you're not really sacrificing that much weight. It's not going to be noticeable when driving the car, I can assure you.
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Old 11-12-2018, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 0H8Z06
Vic, did you see, hear any symptoms that this was going on? Or was it simply a pre maint ( pro active) thing. That is pretty scary actually.... Think i'll do the Blackstone thing next time I change the oil... If nothing else I will have piece of mind.
Yep, I heard a sound that reminded me of when my torque tube couplers went out !!! It came at the end of a drag race pass as I decelerated; I immediately checked all of my gauges and noted oil pressure was still in the mid 50's so I did not immediately identify it as being a bearing issue. I got the car into the pits, noted that oil pressure was still good, and shut it down. I had the car trailered home and it wasn't until a I dropped the oil did I find all of the gold flakes in the oil and significant metal content sticking to the magnetic oil drain plug.
Old 11-12-2018, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Pb82 Ronin
Jumping in a bit late...but for $5K there are much cheaper alternatives that are a "better value" than titanium stockers. For instance, you can get a completely custom set (as in measured and made for you specifically) of billet rods for about $3K. And you can buy some Callies Ultra rods for about $2K a set. Both options will handle all the power you can throw at them and you're not really sacrificing that much weight. It's not going to be noticeable when driving the car, I can assure you.
I'm replacing the entire rotating assembly, crank to pistons, during this current rebuild while it's at HPR
I also agree with you that there are "better value" alternatives out there, that owners who plan on significantly modding their cars should look into. I don't know if there's been anyone who's had the titanium rods re-treated with an anti-friction coating that has then put any significant amount of miles on them...would be a good option if any credible data could be amassed on this option.
Until then, monitor your oil changes for significant jumps in titanium content, which should give you enough time to plan your rebuild and salvage as much of the OEM motor as you can.

Last edited by FNBADAZ06; 11-12-2018 at 03:36 PM.
Old 09-21-2019, 03:21 PM
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Are all 06-13 427’s using the same rods?
Old 09-21-2019, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveDoten
Are all 06-13 427’s using the same rods?
There was revision to add an oil channel on later model rods, so not exactly.
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Old 09-24-2019, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
There was revision to add an oil channel on later model rods, so not exactly.
Great info! Is the year of the switch known?
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Old 09-24-2019, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeOC
Great info! Is the year of the switch known?
I'm not exactly sure but my 2009 has the oil channel.
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Old 09-24-2019, 05:28 PM
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I think it was the 2009 model year engine that got the updated rods, along with the increase oil capacity sump tank.
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Old 09-24-2019, 05:32 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by MickVette
I'm not exactly sure but my 2009 has the oil channel.
Good info. A lot of changes in ‘09 so that was my first guess but I’ve got ‘08 rods and I’m hoping they have them. I’ll probably end up using piston squirters so it’s probably not critical but it would be nice to know.
Old 09-24-2019, 06:30 PM
  #57  
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Either way, oil channel or not, they fail so isn't a big difference.

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Old 09-24-2019, 07:40 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Either way, oil channel or not, they fail so isn't a big difference.
I had my rods WPCed w/ moly so hopefully that helps them hold up. I’ll be doing oil reports for sure.
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:08 PM
  #59  
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Do the ZR1 LS9's have the same rods/coating issue?
Old 02-17-2020, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by turbrorx7
Do the ZR1 LS9's have the same rods/coating issue?
Rods made by a different manufacturer that seemed to have done a thicker coating so there are leas failures been seen.


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