RRGOO7

Hi All,

Ive had my 2009 ZR1 since new, It has only 9,000 Miles.

I noticed a good amount of fluid leaking from the rear of the car so I dropped it off at the stealership this morning.

They called me back saying the Transmission Front Pump is leaking and are quoting $2,450 to fix it. The pump is $732.26 and the rest is labor. Supposedly need to remove the tranny and diff to fix this??


Anyone have this issue yet? Seems steep to me.

Unreal

I would take it to a LS shop. Probably just one of the lines/orings and simple easy fix, but the tranny does need to be slid back to access/fix it, which is going to be a lot of labor.

GMJim

As usual the dealer doesn't know what they're talking about. The fluid pump in the transmission is all internal and can't leak unless the housing is cracked or porous. See if you can post what's written on the work order/quote here for a better explanation. If you're getting fluid leaking at the front of the transmission it's either coming from the front seal or the line is leaking and air flow is causing it to blow around to appear that way. I'll bet it's a leak at the front fitting.

johnny3

Front pump on a manual transmission?? Is there such a thing?

TXGS507

Run from the stealership....

RRGOO7

I asked for more information.

Here is what they just responded.

"Good morning

We need to remove the exhaust system , rear sub frame and remove the transmission , so we can replace the front pump and seal."

RRGOO7

They also included this picture.

Unreal

Yes z06/zr1 have a pump on the front. That is the torque tube, and no reason to remove that part. They need to pull the part in the back.

RichieRichZ06

Contrary to what many others have posted in here, the manual trans fluid pump definitely can leak and we've seen quite a few of them causing a drip from the rear of the torque tube. From 2008 and up the pump is built into the front plate of the trans, which GM calls the adapter.

There are usually only two possibilities for the pump to leak. One is the fitting going to the trans cooler line and the other is a pressed in plug on the opposite side. The fitting and/or line is most common, but we've replaced a handful for the non-serviceable fitting leaking as well.

RICH

RichieRichZ06

The spent a couple additional hours of labor taking the entire thing out, which was not required to remove the transmission.

GMJim

Richie
Not saying you haven't experienced a pump leak however I'm retired now but I've done many many rebuilds/upgrades on the TR6060 and have never seen a pump leak unless it was case porosity in the adapter. Maybe I'm just lucky? Is this what you're referring to?

RichieRichZ06

Jim,

I have seen a couple leak due to porosity, but also a few that have fluid leaking around the plug that is opposite of the outlet pipe for the cooler. More than half the time it's just the quick connect fitting or the cooler line that's deformed enough to allow a leak past the connector.

RICH

Rick@RKT Performance

We have never seen one leaking from porosity issues with the pump in the midplates but quite few that were leaking from the quick connect fitting that screws into the pump output side. This fitting can be accessed without removing the transmission.

Also, have the tech check the input shaft seal and shifter shaft seal while it's out. That could be another source of fluid leak.

RRGOO7

Im going to pull it from the dealer and try and find a good Independent shop to tackle this.

So many different opinions on what it is.

ZR1Cat

Best wishes on an inexpensive repair. Keep us posted regarding the outcome.

tdeweese

Rick,

Do you know if there is an adapter fitting that has one end as shown in your picture with the o-ring and a -6an on the other? I want to eliminate all the hard lines going to the radiator and do a remote cooler at the rear of the car. This fitting leaked all over the dyno last week and in conjunction with how tight the hard lines are against the headers I would like a better setup.

phipp85

Thats what I did except I ran the lines to the front and connected where the OEM lines do at the radiator. I’m pretty sure I used power steering adapters(M16x1.5), I’ll try to remember to look back through my receipts and see. I got everything from a “hydraulic supply company” if you have one near you.

Rick@RKT Performance

You can use male -6 on both sides. Just use red locktite on the threads and you'll be fine.

tdeweese

Rick,

Thank you for the helpful reply; I see they sell a -6 O-ring to -6AN thread adapter per attached picture which appears to look like the GM quick connect fitting. Is that what you used?

Rick@RKT Performance

This is what we use. No need for the o ring. -6 on both sides.