MTPZ06

Still have the stock coils for a swap out comparison?

Michael_D

I went with the MSD packs to see if the misfire would be reduced. Didn't help or worsen. They did improve idle fuel trims though, and general idle quality. Did not notice any other improvements, or negatives.

olddragger

my car did not like iridiums...but your engine is different from mind, plus environment and gas.
RWTD on h/p tuners had this to say:
"As for knock sensor sensitivity, unfortunately the Gen4 vehicles have way too sensitive knock sensors from the factory. Nearly every LS2 and LS7 vehicle I've tested are terrible about false knock straight from the factory. Even the LS3 vehicles I've been toying with on the street are getting false knock on the factory tune. When you pick up a range of 5 to 10+ rwhp on these vehicles from just turning off the knock sensors on the factory tune, you start to put 2 and 2 together"
Course this doesn't really apply to your case because your knock gets better once the octane is bumped up---it is just a point of interest.
I didn't like the msd coils--- the dwell times are slightly different and that caused me a little trouble. Was not worth it. Our coils can stand a better grounding

MTPZ06

Ahh...so the misfire was a pre-existing condition.

Michael_D

Ya, there a lot of folks who tend to migrate towards the knock sensors being the problem, when actually they created the problem and the sensors did their job be saving their engine. I don't screw with sensor settings. That's a last option thing for me. I kinda like my pistons and cylinder liners.

The coil packs fire multiple times, which I suppose you could interpret as dwell time. Like I said, it was an experiment, and I don't pay retail. I also installed the direct 12v harness. They are there now, working fine, and I have no reason to remove them. Would I recommend them??? No. Not unless you have a really rowdy camshaft and having trouble sorting out idle, and you have actually calibrated the idle circuit correctly.

Was surfing the big A store and the other big E store for TR7's. I'm beginning to think NGK has stopped making them, and phased them out to the IX plugs?? I can't even find the damn plug listing on the NGK web site.

It's raining...again. Can of Torco in a full tank ready for testing. Maybe next week.

I have a new ECM to try as well. Moving to the 2010 ECM to get me a couple more O2 tables to mess with. Hoping I can calibrate the O2's for my headers.

Dan_the_C5_Man

You taking about the O2 timing delay, related to moving the O2's down-range? I thought we all collectively agreed that wasn't possible via HPT (admittedly, I haven't looked or thought about this since v2 x).

And my KR free summer continues - it was 100 degrees here and at any TP at any RPM, with stock tables and the .020 mill, zero KR, all good so far. I guess I need to run Shell from a particular station, Chevron station down the street is apparently a problem.. Might need to run an occasional bottle of Techron.

Michael_D

Gas stations and brand do matter.... Unless the fuel gets trucked from say, Chev refinery to Chev station, the base fuel is the same and all that's done to differentiate fuel is brand specific additives. And avoid the big discount stations like Costco and Sams. They are constantly negotiating on a low bid basis.

You have to move to the 2010 E38 to get the different tables. Yes, the O2 integrator tables that are absent on 2009 and older E38's. 2010 also has higher IFR table, so hopefully, I will have room on the table to get away from scaling some tables. It has launch control too, but I don't think that will work without the Mag Ride system. Don't really care about that anyway. I will effectively running the 2010 op system. I had to get Dstek to set up the ECM for me.

olddragger

It would be interesting to see if the knock went away if you dropped a 3:90 or 4:11 diff in it
Lol.
My car is getting to the point in which I need to start replacing my coils and wires.
Plugs too i guess. With that in mind...don't think the plugs are listed as a tr7? They are listed as something else....will have to research that.
May replace my coils with the yukons.

Dan_the_C5_Man

Well, I have an E38 - please share if / when you find a table to adjust the O2 head port to header position distance, would be interested to see what that looks like. And I have mag ride as well - I believe that lives in a TCM / BCM, so no love there.

Unreal

TR7 is NGK PN : NGK-3346

olddragger

Thanks unreal.save me from looking.

Rjhctrapp

On YouTube, Chris fix tested a bunch of additives, mostly for removing carbon deposits but he tested one, Maxx fuel additive that he dyno tested and found it to add hp and fuel economy. Helps boost the fuel to burn more efficiently. He tested all of them I think. Royal purple, Gunk. I don't think he left one out. He used a bore scope for before and after videos of the cylinders. Worth a look.

ZZ06

I know. I know.....The ONLY reason I revived this thread is because 1, great discussion going on here for those who are HPT inclined. 2, Michael D was doing some testing with octane boosters that I am more than curios about. What was the outcome of all your testing? The temps here in Clovis are 100+ for the next week or two. I'm 11:3.1 CR and running the AC in these temps gets the car hot as hell. The crap 91 will not and is not holding up well. Not even in some low load transient throttle areas. Ive added a bottle of the RP booster and just from the 1 log ive done thus far, along with blipping the throttle, it seems to be working. I just want to know how your test turned out. Did you end up with w/m kit?

Ronstar

I use Boostane. Works really well for me

Michael_D

I continued to test the four I found throughout last season. Of the four I messed with (Torco, NOS, Klotz, RP), the RP and Klotz seemed to work slightly better than the Torco. The NOS was not nearly as effective. I suspect that is due to it being 12 OZ verse 16 OZ. But the instructions say to mix it with 16 gallons of fuel though, so I can't cut it any slack. The three that did work, actually work quite well. I can add spark in the areas of the map that really help with how "snappy" the engine responds to throttle input. Those transient areas that are not into PE yet....... I give the RP props for the can it comes in. It's convenient, seals really well, and fits in a cup holder. Sounds silly, but if you have to use booster for every tank, you'll appreciate it. I like the Klotz because you can get it in bulk containers; up to 35 gallons if you want..... But....., you gotta get it into the tank. What I ended up doing, is buy Klotz in five-gallon cans, and then I pour it into empty RP cans that I can keep in the car. The stuff stinks and will stain just about anything it touches, so figure out a method to transfer it if you do as I do.

I did end up installing an Alky Control Meth/Water system. I only JUST got it set up and running. I'm on my third spark map and still tweaking. The spray, so far, has allowed me to add four deg of spark in the high load/high torque areas of the map under WOT/PE conditions. Even with the booster, I was limited to 18 deg of spark (15 deg without any booster). It doesn't help much with the transient conditions, so booster will always be in my car's future until I can move where I can get 93 octane fuel..... For example, if in 4th and want to quickly get around someone, but not want to just downshift and hammer it, those areas of the spark table are absurdly pathetic without the booster.

I don't expect to mess with WOT spark much more. At 22 deg, I'm already at a point where more just won't make any more power.

Let me know if you need any more info.......

nuke61

Boostane is another based on MMT.

stefuel

This is probably no use to MD because it seems he requires the use of 1/2 tank of fuel just to get to the closest gas station but for those of you that can actually see the house next door, what about aviation gas? What is the octane rating of that. Private airports have to supply that to the small aircraft.

stefuel

Not really interested in this for my self but a quick search show 2 grades of AVgas AVgas 100 (high lead content) and AVgas 100LL (low lead)
No unleaded so probably could only run in a catless setup.
The octane rating is confusing (100/130) This is what I read. Minimum octane rating is 100 for lean mixture and 130 for a rich mixture. So I guess the final octane rating depends on your tune but would have no way to say exactly what the octane per combustion stroke would end up being. A high fuel to air ratio means higher octane rating???

Nowanker

Thanks for the update! I was curious as well.
CA 91 octane isn't as bad as it gets, but it still aint great.

REDZED2

Av gas is very dry. Yeah you should be running catless if mixing Av in with pump. Too much AV gas and the wrong timing and it can leave small holes in the tops of your pistons running a lot of WOT. At extremes can even crack a ringland. That's really extreme as O mentioned. Have a lot of late model 5.0 stangs running AV mix up here (low lead gas). Waste of money. Too dangerous IMO. Fine for old muscle cars n carbs.