ZedNought6

Hello All

A little history first...

I have already had the issue with the fan controller wiring harness coupler where the middle pin was melted. I removed the coupler and hard wired it together with solder and there were no issues.

Today I noticed temps creeping up while idling and in slow traffic, the check engine light also is on and the fans are inop.

Researching on the webbernet shows that this is likely the fan control module.

My question to you all is: Are there other components that can also throw a CEL and kill the fans. What I don't want to do is buy 200 dollars worth of parts that don't fix the problem through process of elimination when the solution is $25, or more soldering.

When I get home I have the ability to read codes, but sometimes codes are nebulous.

Also, even though I have a Dewitts I still get higher than I'd like temps at idle and in traffic. Texas gets hot hot hot! Due to temps above 220 my AC starts to cut out. Is there an alternative fan setup to stock that actually works? I've heard conflicting opinions. I might as well park her and save the $$$ and kill two birds with one stone IF there is a viable aftermarket fan option.

Any advice is always welcome!

rjacobs

you have a dewitts so why not run his dual fan setup?

ZedNought6

Heard the dual fan was not the way to go... I'd like to hear from some people that have actual experiences with those fans or any other aftermarket solution.

MTPZ06

Grab his Spal dual fan setup.

ZedNought6

Do you have them? Have they helped in traffic?

MTPZ06

Me personally, no. I upgraded to an OE ZR1 rad and oil cooler setup. I have heard, and read threads in your situation, where the dual fans have been a big help in stop/go traffic. I was surprised you had heard otherwise.

ZedNought6

Hard to know what to believe on the interwebs. But one was a guy I was going to give my money to for the install. That made me think twice. But obviously OEM is a bust so what would I lose?

RPOWU8

Going to assume you checked the fan fuse. You could run a couple wires to test the fan from underneath the car. If the fuse is good and the fan works fine when you jump it, it is your module. Modules are around $115

Check for grass, leaves, and dirt in front of and behind the AC condenser . These cars hoover pretty good. Have you had the car tuned? If so did they turn the fan % on sooner? Thermostat? Alternator voltage?

Stock fan works pretty darn good on a NA car. Kind of ridiculous the stock temp settings on the fan.

DJ

MTPZ06

I know D3 performance engineering also has a dual fan setup...not sure if its compatible with the Dewitt's, but it also uses Spal fans. My best advice would be to call Dewitt's and see what they can recommend for your situation. I assume you've already done the lower temp T-stat, running proper water/coolant mix w/water wetter, and adjusted the fan settings in your tune? If you've taken care of the basics, and you're already running a Dewitt's...pulling more air across the fins is all you can really do.

Nowanker

Before you replace the fan control module, check the wires going in to it. They sometimes corrode and make a crappy connection. Voltage tests indicate the fan control is bad, but it isn't always the real culprit.
ask me how I know...

Unreal

Standard dual spal fans cool worse than stock.

double06

The D3 fans are stronger than the normal spal dual fans and draw 50% more current. You might want to look at the brushless fan system from Dewitts - Unreal here has had a good experience with them. The normal dual fans are so so. Do not look at the open CFM because it means nothing when you put a radiator and AC unit behind them. You need to get flow numbers with the stuff installed that is why D3s work pretty good as a much more powerful motor and can draw through all the stuff you have. Brushless the same thing. Say the spal fan flows 1000 cfm you put stuff in front of it and now it only flows 500 cfm. With the brushless say the same starting cfm 1000 but you put stuff in front of it and it flows 700 cfm - 40% better than the regular fan even though same starting cfm. Same concept is you have a 327 chevelle and a 454 chevelle - 4 200 pound guys get in each car on the 327 you are really going to notice it while on the 454 much less noticeable. Torque.

Unreal

Only fan upgrades to look at are the PWM 17" or D3 setup. Anything else is a downgrade form factory.