[Z06] Average cost to get heads fixed?
#21
Intermediate
Hpa!
Definitely speak with Kevin or Josh at Horsepower Addicts. I just had heads, cam, intake, LT headers and tuning done there and they were great to work with. Very reasonably priced and they do NOT push you to buy any unnecessary services of parts.
I also like that Josh took the time to listen to my goals (including driveability concerns) and recommended a cam with specs that met those goals rather than just grab a "make 600 HP" cam that would be a dyno queen, but miserable to live with on a daily basis.
And another thing that was important to me (and I assume would be to you with such a low mileage Z) is that they treated the car like it was their own... it came back to me in the same condition as when I dropped it off. No scratches, grease or oil spills under the hood, etc.
I also like that Josh took the time to listen to my goals (including driveability concerns) and recommended a cam with specs that met those goals rather than just grab a "make 600 HP" cam that would be a dyno queen, but miserable to live with on a daily basis.
And another thing that was important to me (and I assume would be to you with such a low mileage Z) is that they treated the car like it was their own... it came back to me in the same condition as when I dropped it off. No scratches, grease or oil spills under the hood, etc.
#23
Pro
I have a 2009 Z06 with less than 1000 miles on it and I absolutely love the car. With the low miles I have on my car I've been putting off getting any thing done to rectify the valve wear issue. Now that my warranty has expired or will be expiring, I think it's time to do some preventive maintenance and get the heads done so I don't have any issues down the road. I'm looking to see what forum members have paid out of pocket to have the heads fixed and eliminate the valve wear problem.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
I'm going to be purchasing a C6 Z06 in the next few weeks. This has consumed my mind, what to do, how to do it, and how much to budget.
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#25
With less than a thousand miles on the engine there is little chance the guides are worn badly. Even if they were outside the service tolerance when the heads were assembled they wouldn't be worn all that much. To get a dropped valve the clearances would have to be huge (much larger than .0037). I wouldn't worry about it now.
When you get around 12K miles in 60 or so years have the heads checked then. If you are really worried have them checked in 30 years when you reach 6K miles.
Bill
When you get around 12K miles in 60 or so years have the heads checked then. If you are really worried have them checked in 30 years when you reach 6K miles.
Bill
#27
Supporting Vendor
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Harbor City California
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We charge $2,600 (plus tax on parts) to R&R the heads in our shop. This is including all the parts and labor (package 4 heads, arp bolts, head gaskets, exh gaskets, plugs wires, oil and fluids). If new pushrods are used to achieve desired preload then it would be an additional $120.
If you were to bring heads into a shop and ask to have them installed then expect to pay between $800-$1,400 (depending on the the parts of the country you live in, the shop doing the work, ect...)
OP any questions feel free to shoot us an email
HP@americanheritageperformance.com
If you were to bring heads into a shop and ask to have them installed then expect to pay between $800-$1,400 (depending on the the parts of the country you live in, the shop doing the work, ect...)
OP any questions feel free to shoot us an email
HP@americanheritageperformance.com
#28
I am looking at an 06 with 50k miles. Already has a cam and new valve springs. If I'm only looking to fix the issue and not more power, is pulling the heads and replacing the guides all you need to do?
#29
Melting Slicks
I don't think anyone really knows for sure, but obviously you don't want to replace the guides with OEM guides otherwise the problem will just show up again later. I think most shops recommend that you also replace your valves and possibly the springs as well for the 'fix'.
#30
I don't think anyone really knows for sure, but obviously you don't want to replace the guides with OEM guides otherwise the problem will just show up again later. I think most shops recommend that you also replace your valves and possibly the springs as well for the 'fix'.
I talked to a local shop and they quoted me ~$1000 to do a valve job, replace the guides and springs, and machine the heads i think they said? That doesn't include labor.
#31
I'm getting ready to do:
Head fix with bronze guides, SS valves, 3-angle valve job, milled, etc etc
Cam upgrade
CAI
Labor + Dyno tuning for around $4,000 total. Just shop around and be willing to travel a few hours in any direction to get what you need.
Head fix with bronze guides, SS valves, 3-angle valve job, milled, etc etc
Cam upgrade
CAI
Labor + Dyno tuning for around $4,000 total. Just shop around and be willing to travel a few hours in any direction to get what you need.
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Renquest (06-20-2019)
#32
I don't think anyone really knows for sure, but obviously you don't want to replace the guides with OEM guides otherwise the problem will just show up again later. I think most shops recommend that you also replace your valves and possibly the springs as well for the 'fix'.
Labor to pull and re-install heads is between $900 - $1500 and fixing bronze guides and new valves will run together around $600-800 I bet.
#33
Buy one already fixed. Be willing to pay an extra $2K for a set of fixed/modded heads. You won't get it done any cheaper by yourself unless you actually do the labor.
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Renquest (06-20-2019)
#35
Supporting Vendor
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Harbor City California
Posts: 2,820
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We offer our MoldStar90 Valve guide that we feel is far superior to bronze in every way. We feel it is superior to any valve guide currently on the Market. MoldStar90 has been heavily tested and proven in high end race applications for years (F1, Indy, Ect...).
http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/Contact.html
http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/Contact.html
Last edited by American Heritage; 08-18-2015 at 05:47 AM.
#36
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Do we know exactly what the problem is and are we certain that redoing the heads will fix it??? I've read multiple articles about the issue and one that stuck in my mind is from Superchevy I believe where it was mentioned the issue was a machining problem with the heads. A well known forum vendor, who shall remain nameless, recommends using TI intake valves, the stock exhaust valves, bronze guides and beehive springs. Then another vendor has their own take on what the "fix" is. Then another has a slightly different opinion on how to correct it. I guess my main concern is that if the money is spent to redo the heads what reassurance do we have that the problem is "fixed". It's bad enough that the owners have to pay to fix the problem but also have to sort through different takes on what the "fix" is and hope they choose the right one. Sorry, rant over.
#37
Every vendor or cylinder head specialist will have what they consider "the fix". They all vary to some degree. In the end though, there are no mysterious qualities with these heads over any other pushrod activated V8 cylinder heads. Just stick to the basics. Good machine work, good geometry, and the right materials. This isn't rocket science, despite keyboard mechanics trying to make it so. I put this thread together to describe what causes guide wear at the base level. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...uide-wear.html
I would resist the temptation to install a larger camshaft, or headers, or anything else. Just keep the damn thing stock. Once you start down that road, you'll just keep walking.....and will not have time to drive the car.
I would resist the temptation to install a larger camshaft, or headers, or anything else. Just keep the damn thing stock. Once you start down that road, you'll just keep walking.....and will not have time to drive the car.
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ArmchairArchitect (08-30-2017)
#38
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Every vendor or cylinder head specialist will have what they consider "the fix". They all vary to some degree. In the end though, there are no mysterious qualities with these heads over any other pushrod activated V8 cylinder heads. Just stick to the basics. Good machine work, good geometry, and the right materials. This isn't rocket science, despite keyboard mechanics trying to make it so. I put this thread together to describe what causes guide wear at the base level. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...uide-wear.html
I would resist the temptation to install a larger camshaft, or headers, or anything else. Just keep the damn thing stock. Once you start down that road, you'll just keep walking.....and will not have time to drive the car.
I would resist the temptation to install a larger camshaft, or headers, or anything else. Just keep the damn thing stock. Once you start down that road, you'll just keep walking.....and will not have time to drive the car.